Giving up my elaborate skincare routine for a more intuitive one was a wise decision
As a beauty writer, testing the newest products on the market, researching novel chemical active ingredients, keeping up with the latest beauty tech innovations, and swatching heaps of make-up are some of the key aspects that define my job. Needless to say, I come across several beauty launches daily, courtesy of the almost 400 billion-dollar global beauty industry.
Until a few months ago, my skincare routine was as tedious and hectic as a boot camp, including essences, various mineral and chemical sunscreens, facial sprays, face masks, and chemical and physical exfoliators. Initially, I embraced the extensive regimen for its promise of self-care and healthier skin. However, I didn’t anticipate the mental load that would come with maintaining it, especially for my generation for whom, growing up, a skincare routine was rather minimal, involving a simple face wash, moisturiser, and sunscreen. What started as a fun, explorative journey soon became a chore.
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Hustle, from d'you, combines a complex of active and plant-based ingredients, allowing you to streamline serum application. Image: Instagram.com/dyou.co
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The thick and nourishing feel of this face cream comes from colloidal oatmeal, which is great to calm red and irritated skin. Image: Instagram.com/firstaidbeauty
I speak with two dermatologists to decipher the pros and pros of a modest skincare routine and tell you how it helped not only my skin but also my mental health.
#1: Cut down the use of serums
“Serums, or concentrated active ingredient solutions, are not mandatory like moisturisers and sunscreens are for skin,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “Serums have gained hype due to social media trends, with most people making them a part of their routine due to FOMO. When used excessively, it can disturb the skin barrier.” Moreover, things can go from bad to worse when incompatible actives like vitamin C and retinol are combined.
My combination skin type is prone to acne and congestion, and living in a humid, polluted city like Mumbai exacerbates these concerns. Hormonal imbalances further affect my skin, causing pigmentation and texture problems. To manage my skin, I used the knowledge I learned as a beauty writer—that I should rely on various active ingredients such as salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and kojic acid (since vitamin C can worsen acne). However, keeping track of which active to use in my AM and PM skincare routines, while considering the photosensitivity that each could trigger, was taxing.
“SERUMS HAVE GAINED HYPE DUE TO SOCIAL MEDIA TRENDS, WITH MOST PEOPLE MAKING THEM A PART OF THEIR ROUTINE DUE TO FOMO. WHEN USED EXCESSIVELY, IT CAN DISTURB THE SKIN BARRIER”
Dr Madhuri Agarwal
Eventually, I moved to a serum that combined multiple essential active ingredients and comprised a well-balanced formulation, replacing the many single-ingredient serums on my shelf. The result? My skin’s flare-ups are under control, more than ever before, thanks to uniformity in the delivery of active ingredients.
According to New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi, “Your skin could respond better to fewer applications [of chemical actives], allowing it to maintain its natural balance.” Following this advice, on days when overindulgence in pizza or vodka manifests on the skin in the form of zits, I gently swipe a cotton pad dipped in Paula’s Choice’s 2% Salicylic Acid Treatment on the skin before moisturising my skin at night to clear them up. The moment they show signs of subsiding (which is usually in a day or two), I stop using it—consider it like an SOS treatment. I no longer had to investigate my skincare routine to figure out which serum is working, and which isn’t.
#2: Switched to hard-working cleansers
Not many skincare products can provide immediate gratification, but a cleanser is one of them—especially one that goes beyond the basic cleansing formula.
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Lotus Splash is a conditioning cleanser that doesn't dehydrate the skin, perfect for daily use. Image: Instagram.com/82eofficial
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Farmacy's Green Clean Cleansing Balm is a cult-favourite, for it melts away stubborn make-up in minutes without hurting the eye. Image: Instagram.com/farmacy
Enter: Active-infused facial cleansers. Whether it’s an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), BHA (beta hydroxy acid), antioxidants like vitamin C, or barrier-replenishing ingredients like ceramides and lipids, these actives briefly treat your skin before being washed off, unlike serums, which linger and could potentially trigger irritation.
“While AHAs (like glycolic acid) and BHAs (like salicylic acid) are beneficial for removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores, daily use can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to increased sensitivity and potentially more oil production,” informs Sethi, confirming that a mix of both could be more beneficial. I alternate between an exfoliating and a nourishing cleanser to strike a balance between their respective functions.
“Chemical exfoliators reduce dead skin buildup,” cites Agarwal, “However, it is advisable to exfoliate twice or thrice a week for oily skin and once a week for dry skin.” You could consider rotating between exfoliative cleansers and creamy cleansers that don’t strip away the moisture of your skin.
#3: Some old, some new weekly rituals
While I follow a basic cleanse-treat-moisturise-protect regime during the day and cleanse-treat-nourish at night, I realised that a slightly more intensive weekly skin ritual was required. That’s when I discovered at-home chemical peels. Chemical peels can often be accompanied by tingling, redness, burning or prickling on the skin. Speak to your dermatologist before using any at-home peels.
“EVERYBODY’S SKIN IS DIFFERENT. SO, YOU MUST CHOOSE YOUR SKINCARE ACCORDING TO YOUR NEEDS, NOT ACCORDING TO SOME MASS-PRODUCED FORMULA OR TREND”
Dr Kiran Sethi
“Chemical peels remove the outer layer of dead skin cells, promoting cell turnover and revealing fresher, brighter skin. On the other hand, clay masks are excellent for absorbing excess oil and impurities, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin but potentially drying for dry or sensitive skin,” explains Sethi, reinstating that both deserve merit for my greasy, congested skin.
I resorted to The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution; it is potent enough to give your skin an express facial at home. Using it fortnightly gives me brighter, cleaner-looking skin at a fraction of the money and time invested in multi-step regimens to derive similar results. With potent formulations, caveats are bound to occur. While a high-strength chemical peel can leave your skin flaky, red, irritated or highly vulnerable to the sun, a clay mask could dry it out, aggravating sebum excretion. The solution? Use the chemical peel only twice a month—patch test it first, don’t leave it on the skin for more than ten minutes, and follow up with copious amounts of moisturiser and sunscreen.
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Using clay-based cleansing face masks can help decongest pores, however, ensure using a non-drying one. Image: Instagram.com/pahadilocal
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The Ordinary AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution is potent enough to give your skin an express facial at home. Image: Instagram.com/theoridinary
I am slapping on a clay mask too, on weeks that aren’t dedicated to the peel. However, I’ve swapped conventional clay face packs with richer clay-based masks that don’t leave my skin as dry as the Sahara Desert.
#4: Become a regular at skin clinics
Almost nothing you practise at home can substitute for a customised treatment from a medical professional. Booking a monthly appointment at your dermatologist’s clinic can prove to be more useful than you think. “Skincare products work on a superficial level to protect and repair skin. However, the skin changes due to ageing and environmental damage, and often, these products don’t reach the deeper layers of the skin. A regular skin treatment at a dermatologist’s clinic helps to correct and also prevent future damage immediately,” explains Agarwal.
Consulting a doctor about your skin health is always beneficial, concurs Sethi. “Getting a hydrating facial can be relaxing and adds a boost of blood circulation and hydration to the skin. However, monthly visits to a dermatologist aren’t necessary for everyone. If you follow a simple, effective routine, your goal is just maintaining healthy skin, and your skin is otherwise healthy, occasional visits might suffice. Meanwhile, professional treatments provide a deeper cleanse and address specific concerns more effectively.”
#5: Embraced intuitive skincare
“Intuitive skincare essentially means understanding your skin and choosing products according to what it needs,” Sethi begins to explain. Listening to your skin means your skincare routine will be in tandem with the current/changing needs of your skin, without saturating it with a surplus of products. “Everybody’s skin is different, everyone’s lives are different, everyone’s stress points are different. So, you must choose your skincare according to your needs, not according to some mass-produced formula or trend.”
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“Intuitive skincare essentially means understanding your skin and choosing products according to what it needs,” says Dr Kiran Sethi. Image: Instagram.com/aminu.life
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No matter what your skincare routine, using moisturiser and sunscreen every single day is non-negotiable, whether indoors or outdoors. Image: Pexels
Does this mean you toss out the serums from your beauty cabinet? No. You could certainly try using them in a more concern-oriented manner, instead of mindlessly layering them.
Dermatologist-approved tips to bookmark
No matter what your skincare routine, using moisturiser and sunscreen every single day is non-negotiable, whether indoors or outdoors.
“When shifting to a basic skincare routine, just like a detox diet, cut away multiple product layering. Start with the two or three essential products and assess your skin’s response; stick to it without getting tempted by a new product. Subtract toners, essences and scrubs, should you use any of these,” suggests Agarwal. “Prioritise core steps: cleansing, moisturising, and sun protection. Identify your primary skin concerns and choose products that address them effectively. You could look for multi-functional options that simplify the routine without compromising on efficacy.”
I’d be lying if I told you that I’ve bid goodbye to face oil massages, gua shas, face polishes, and rose water mists. However, combining intuitive skincare with a less-is-more approach has equipped me to accord my skin exactly what it needs, when it needs, and how much it needs. In an age where a new beauty product peaks virality on social media every week, breaking down the information overlord and recognising that most of it is marketing speak is key. No two skin types are the same, which is why blindly following anyone’s skincare regime—your favourite celebrity’s or mine—isn’t going to fetch you much. The beauty industry is enjoying its zenith and the market is saturated with new launches. As consumers, make your purchases based on needs, and not tall claims of products.
Let skincare products be a tool to enhance the health of your skin; don’t let your skin become a tool for all the skincare trends that come and go.
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