Can vitamin C worsen acne?

Considered as one of the best brightening agents for skincare, vitamin C has also been called out for causing zits and blemishes. We ask skin experts to know more 

With the recent proliferation of skincare ingredients, right from basic petroleum jelly to exfoliating and resurfacing AHA and BHA solutions, there is a plethora of products at one’s disposal. While much of the beauty space has become overwhelming for consumers, some fail-proof ingredients (and their benefits) have been embedded into the minds of skincare enthusiasts. Case in point: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, aloe vera, vitamin C and the likes. However, their negatives, or perhaps, caveats, have barely been spoken about. For instance, we recently covered the pluses and minuses of hyaluronic acid—the latter being largely unknown. Similarly, vitamin C, regarded as the ultimate radiance booster, can also have its pros and cons. We speak to beauty experts to bring you a primer on vitamin C.  

Why is vitamin C everywhere?

“Vitamin C, a potent antioxidant, also known as ascorbic acid, is widely used in skincare for its multi-functionality,” affirms Prudvi Kaka, chief scientific officer, The Ordinary. According to Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad, ascorbic acid is a type of AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) derived from citric acid. The brightening ingredient has made its way into every possible format of skincare products—from serums and moisturisers to masks and sunscreens, owing to the many benefits that it offers.

“As a skincare ingredient, vitamin C and its derivatives (such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate) help protect [the skin] from environmental aggressors, aid in the repair of signs of sun damage, soften fine lines, and visibly fade discolourations, including post-breakout marks,” shares Desiree Stordahl, director of applied research and education at Paula’s Choice. “It does all of this topically by virtue of its potent antioxidant properties that can intercept and neutralise unstable molecules before they go on to damage every layer of skin.”

Kaka believes that due to the important and varied roles that vitamin C plays in the body, and specifically on the skin, it is one of the most researched active ingredients in skincare. “When applied topically, it has been shown to offer antioxidant support to the skin which helps to improve the look of signs of ageing caused by external stressors. It also evens out skin tone, imparting radiance and providing structural support to the skin,” explains Kaka, echoing Stordahl’s view.

Should you be cautious about vitamin C? 

Vitamin C is known for getting oxidised (turning brown or deep orange) upon coming in direct contact with sunlight or extremely hot temperatures. In fact, at times, when a formulation is conceived incorrectly, it jeopardises the vitamin C-infused product’s stability, irrespective of the storage hygiene. Additionally, the topical application of vitamin C makes your skin photo-sensitive (or sensitive to the sun), inviting potential irritation in the case of inadequate sunscreen wear. But these are just some of the common caveats that crop up.

“Applying vitamin C on acne-prone skin can lead to increased inflammation and worsen the condition,” warns Sharad. “This is because many of these formulations have a water-in-oil base, which can clog pores and exacerbate acne. It’s important to be mindful of vitamin C formulations that contain thick creams or moisturising ingredients like dimethicone, mineral oil and glycerine, as they may also contribute to clogging of pores and acne breakouts.”

“While anecdotally it is sometimes said that blemish-prone skin should avoid products containing vitamin C, there is no scientific evidence supporting the fact that vitamin C may affect such skin, either positively or negatively,” counters Kaka. “Studies, however, have looked at vitamin C’s ability to target uneven skin tone, which many individuals may experience post-blemish,” says Kaka, highlighting the ingredient’s benefits in the phase where acne has fizzled out, leaving behind post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. While vitamin C may or may not worsen acne directly, the irritation it causes could be a source of the devilry. 

Sharad also mentions that people with sensitive skin may experience irritation, redness and a burning sensation upon using vitamin C serums or creams. Stordahl points towards problematic ingredients to cause the said irritation. “Trouble can be caused if the vitamin C product contains citrus oils, denatured alcohol, menthol or mint ingredients, camphor, witch hazel or other proven skin irritants like fragrance,” she says. “Separately, if the pH of the vitamin C formulation is below three, it can be irritating to the skin.” She recommends being wary of rabble-rouser ingredients as well as opting for milder concentrations when you’re just starting out. “Lower levels, such as five per cent or less, are a good starting point for those with sensitive skin, but even people with this skin type can move up to a stronger concentration and see how they do.”

On the same lines, Kaka says, “As direct vitamin C is a powerful active, it is important to take into consideration skin sensitivity. If your skin is not familiar with the ingredient, we always recommend considering a patch test prior to facial application. Subsequently, based on the results, you may prefer to start using vitamin C at a low concentration, then work your way up to higher concentrations as your skin becomes more tolerant.” To familiarise your skin with the antioxidant, the brand has two variants of vitamin C products—Ascorbyl Glucoside 12% Solution, a mild concoction for beginners and Vitamin C 23% Suspension + HA Spheres 2%, a stronger formulation for active users. 

Do you need to stay away from vitamin C?

Not really, believe all three experts. “Generally speaking, vitamin C is good for all skin types and shouldn’t irritate if the product is well formulated (as long as the person doesn’t have their own unique sensitivity to vitamin C ingredients),” believes Stordahl. “It is possible to use vitamin C in acne-prone skin,” says Sharad. “However, it is important to avoid using combinations of ingredients and, instead, opt for pure vitamin C formulations that are lightweight and have an oil-in-water and not water-in-oil based formulation.” In Kaka’s opinion, the best property of pure vitamin C is also its worst—it oxidises rapidly when dissolved in water. “Although its oxidation is inevitable in any formulation format, the vitamin C in all our water-free powder, suspensions and solutions are stable throughout the shelf-life of each of our products.”

Kaka advises against using vitamin C with peptides and niacinamide. “Even though we have a large set of vitamin C products, we do not recommend using more than one in a single regimen as this may induce skin sensitivity,” he furthers. “Using vitamin C with AHAs, BHAs and retinoids can increase the risk of irritation and exfoliation, potentially damaging the protective barrier layer of the skin,” adds Sharad. Stordahl recommends paying attention to the texture of the vitamin C product that you end up purchasing. “If you have acne-prone skin, look for water-light serums or lightweight lotion textures as opposed to oily creams which may clog pores. You can also consider a more concentrated formula like Paula’s Choice C25 Super Booster if you’re going to use vitamin C as a spot treatment for leftover hyperpigmentation from a breakout.” Lastly, Sharad also suggests not applying a vitamin C serum on wet skin as it can contribute to irritation. 

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