The perils of using oxidised vitamin C on your skin

Despite Vitamin C’s many benefits, the antioxidant is demanding and storing it improperly can have an inverse reaction

We’re inching closer to 2023, and it’s safe to say that we’ve officially made it to the era of exponentially increasing ‘skintellectuals’. From AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid to BHAs like salicylic acid, to hydrators and potent treatments like retinol, beauty fanatics have probably put their skin through every ingredient under the roof. The fetish for an established skincare routine isn’t restricted to woke consumers alone; today, everyone is well-versed with (at least) the ABCs of skincare. Enter Vitamin C—an antioxidant that promises brighter, more hydrated and glowing skin. It is so sought after because it really does work for all skin types, and, with most ingredients. With over 5.3 million Instagram posts under #VitaminC, the antioxidant is an open book at present, and little to nothing about it remains unbeknownst—not even the fact that it’s susceptible to oxidisation, which means that it can corrode easily when exposed to oxygen. 

How do you know if your Vitamin C serum has oxidised?

If you’ve emptied a legion of Vitamin C serum bottles, you’ll know that it’s notorious for being stable. Stability is a gargantuan problem with Vitamin C and it’s critical to be able to differentiate between a stable and unstable Vitamin C formula for the sake of your skin’s health. Dr Kiran Sethi, founder, Isya Aesthetics and author, Skin Sense, informs us that a Vitamin C serum will change in colour or smell or both if it oxidises. In concurrence, Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder, ISAAC LUXE, says, “Whether a Vitamin C serum has oxidised or not can be known by observing its colour. When it is freshly manufactured and stored properly, it is colourless or light yellow. When you see the colour changing and appearing brown, that’s the indication of oxidisation,” she explains.

How menacing can oxidised Vitamin C be for your skin?

Vitamin C is one of the most ubiquitous ingredients; you’ll find it in serums, toners, moisturisers, face masks and cleansers– the list goes on. However, serums infused with the antioxidant are awfully vulnerable to oxidisation. Why? They boast higher concentrations of the vitamin—think 10  to 20 per cent—than that found in creams and masks. Thus, using an oxidised serum is conclusive to do more harm than good. “When a Vitamin C serum oxidises, it acts as pro-oxidant and causes inflammation and irritation to the skin, which leads to skin damage,” explains Mittal Gupta. Let us tell you, it’s not fatal but can certainly jeopardise your skin’s health. “It won’t be terrifyingly harmful but the purpose of applying Vitamin C is to prevent damage and improve the skin. Applying oxidised Vitamin C does the exact opposite,” states Sethi. 

Explaining the same, she says, “What is happening is that you are increasing the oxidative stress on the skin, so in the long run you can cause micro damage to the skin. You may observe early and easy tanning, more freckles and earlier signs of ageing with an oxidised Vitamin C serum.” Additionally, if you’re wondering how the supercharging brightener can counterintuitively tan, Mittal Gupta has an answer. “When not stored properly or due to any other unfavourable factors, ascorbic acid present in the Vitamin C serum is converted into Erythrulose, a self-tanning ingredient which leads to discolouration and yellowing of the skin.” She adds, “Apart from discolouration, it can lead to other signs of skin damage such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dark spots, acne breakouts and inelastic skin.” 

How to prevent your Vitamin C serum from oxidising?

This is the million-dollar question and the solutions are worth bookmarking. “A Vitamin C serum needs to be stored properly to avoid oxidisation,” emphasises Mittal Gupta. “Keep it in a temperature-stabilised dark cabinet, away from light, in a dark bottle,” suggests Sethi. Besides storage hygiene, it’s equally important to pick the right Vitamin C serum. Trust these expert-approved tips to help you ace your glow game. “The pH level should be between 3-3.5 and it should be stabilised with either ferulic acid or vitamin E or be a stabilised form of vitamin C. It should not be combined with actives like sunscreen agents, ferrous oxides, retinol or hyaluronate,” elucidates Sethi. “Check the packaging of the bottle; it must be dark-coloured to increase the shelf life of the product,” adds Mittal Gupta. 

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