Will 2023 mark the end of hyaluronic acid serum’s hype?

While the humectant has been touted as a knight in shining armour, skin experts believe that hyaluronic acid, especially when used as a serum, can only do so much

Hyaluronic acid has known to become the no-frills, user- and (all types of) skin-friendly ingredient that requires bare minimum to zero beauty expertise; just slap it on your skin after your treatment solution or toner and before applying  moisturiser and you can enjoy softer, plumper skin. Or at least, that is what most beauty brands claim. And so the global hyaluronic acid market, valued at $8.5 billion in 2021, is projected to surpass an estimate of $16.4 billion by 2032. However, the hydration, plumpness and dewiness that hyaluronic acid promises come with a fair share of caveats, and dermatologists agree too.We attempt to find out whether hyaluronic acid serum lives up to its name.

What does hyaluronic acid do?

Simply put, it hydrates the skin. Explaining the process, Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, celebrity dermatologist and founder, ISAAC LUXE says, “Hyaluronic acid attracts and binds to water molecules and increases the water content of the skin, thereby locking moisture and hydration in the skin. As a result, it boosts the skin’s elasticity and makes it plumper.” Hyaluronic acid is a more or less fail-proof ingredient and can seldom mess up your skin, which is why it’s widely used in creams and toners besides playing the hero ingredient in serums. But you should know that topically-applied hyaluronic acid isn’t the only source of the ingredient for your skin; it occurs naturally in the body and is present in common foods that we consume too–think tofu, citrus fruits and green leafy vegetables. 

“Seventy per cent of the water [in the body] is stored in hyaluronic acid and 50 per cent of that hyaluronic acid is present in the skin. However, environmental and sun damage, combined with ageing, causes its depletion,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics, who attributes the rise in demand for topical hyaluronic acid products to the increased awareness among consumers.

The unsaid caveats

Hyaluronic acid has been certified as the one-size-fits-all skincare ingredient by skincare aficionados, albeit there’s a tranche of undetermined clauses that accompany every benefit the humectant offers. For instance, hyaluronic acid is believed to amplify collagen production which, in turn, helps the skin fight early signs of ageing like fine lines and wrinkles. However, the benefit can be derived in a much better way when ingested, such as in the form of fruits or supplements instead of topical serums. “In my opinion, hyaluronic acid serums, as a single-ingredient serum, don’t make a substantial difference in the skin,” shares Agarwal. “Being a humectant, the immediate benefits do include hydration and suppleness, though the effect wears out within minutes, making the skin drier.”

It then becomes mandatory to layer a moisturiser on top, for the hydration to last, “which kind of defeats the purpose of hyaluronic acid serum on its own,” shares Agarwal. Another noteworthy claim to fame for the ingredient is its ability to bind over 100 times its molecular weight, which means it prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and retains moisture–or hydration–in the skin for longer.

While scientifically that is true, it is not the end of the story. “This benefit [TEWL] only lasts for a matter of hours, before hyaluronic acid is rapidly broken down in the skin by an enzyme known as ‘hyaluronidase’. Furthermore, this benefit is when the ingredient sits in the dermis and can gain moisture from the bloodstream. When on the surface, its molecular weight is too big to absorb and get into the dermis. In fact, in a low-humidity environment, it will usually have the reverse effect; it will dry out the skin”, reveals a blog post on Dr Natasha Cook’s website.

In concurrence, Agarwal adds, “A hyaluronic acid serum should ideally contain a higher molecular weight to provide benefit. But that will not be absorbed by the skin in the first place. Additionally, hyaluronic acid serums with a low molecular weight can cause more inflammation and skin irritation in the long run as they draw water from the skin itself after a few seconds and end up dehydrating it.”

Perhaps, it’s time to catapult your hyaluronic acid serum, which is usually priced anywhere between ₹ 600 to ₹ 6,000 (and upwards), if it’s the only prominent ingredient in the serum. Does that mean you keep your skin away from the ingredient? Not really. Apart from multi-active serums and high-performing moisturisers (look for ceramides and lipids), you can also explore the ingredient’s benefits through injectables.

Is hyaluronic acid better when injected?

“There is no actual comparison between hyaluronic acid fillers and serums,” says Agarwal. “This is because we inject a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid into the deeper layers of skin (dermis and subcutaneous areas), the level where the natural hyaluronic acid is present and improves collagen production and elasticity. Thus, fillers mimic the natural hyaluronic acid of skin.” Agarwal further informs that the fillers deliver for about 9-12 months, depending on the hyaluronic acid product injected inside the skin against serums that are applied on the surface with variable absorption and short-lived benefits. 

Agarwal suggests opting for serums with moisturising and anti-inflammatory ingredients like panthenol, ceramides and niacinamide as they are more effective than hyaluronic acid. “They are easily absorbed in the skin and fortify the skin barrier with long-term benefits when compared with hyaluronic acid, a hydrator (not a moisturiser),” she says. If you’re still persistent on a hyaluronic acid serum, look for a solid all-encompassing formulation and not just the percentage of hyaluronic acid. “I suggest looking for hyaluronic acid serum in combination with an emollient and an occlusive for it to be effective. While hyaluronic acid will draw the water to the skin, the emollient will confine the water in the skin and the occlusive will lock the water in the skin. Always apply hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin and follow it up with a moisturiser,” she concludes.

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