Do you really need a serum in your skincare routine?

They’re potent, targeted and marketed to be an essential product for everyone’s skincare routine but do you actually need one?

It seems like there’s an unspoken mandate for beauty brands to feature serums as part of their offerings, and it’s overwhelming, to say the least. With every brand pushing their *newest* serum that lists a bunch of ingredients and their percentages, it’s not quite easy for a beauty newbie to decide what they should use, if at all. An intuitive skincare routine can prompt this question: Does everyone really need a serum in their skincare routine or is it a marketing ploy to simply sell more products?

What is a serum?

For the uninitiated, the main characteristic of a serum lies in its formulation. “It should contain a high concentration of active ingredients and have a gel or liquid consistency,” explains Dr. Madhuri Agarwal, dermatologist, founder and medical director, Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “It should be a lightweight product, not a cream or heavy occlusive. Other characteristics to consider include the concentration of actives, the main active compound and the packaging.” Dr. Aneesh Sheth, pharmacist and co-founder, Dr. Sheth’s, adds, “A serum should contain ingredients in an effective concentration with penetration enhancers,” also clarifying that a higher percentage does not always mean better efficacy.

Do you really need a serum?

There isn’t necessarily an affirmative or negative response to this question—it depends on the skin concerns you’re trying to treat. “Serums have proven benefits to help treat hyperpigmentation, signs of aging and improve long-term skin health,” says Agarwal. “However, while serums are projected as a must-have, they’re not an absolute essential for everyone,” she says.

Serums are potent, targeted formulas to address specific skin concerns and needs. Even then, your skin type takes top priority when deciding whether you should use one or not. “I'd ordinarily say that a Vitamin C serum is a must, but for a lot of people, Vitamin C in a serum form can be irritating, so they would prefer a lotion or cream,” says Sheth. It’s important to use the right active ingredients in your skincare routine, just not necessarily in the form of a serum. 

Skincare ingredients to look out for

“Almost any ingredient can be packaged in a serum, but it depends entirely on whether or not the user needs that level of potency,” advises Sheth. “People who have highly irritable skin should always do a patch test, especially if the serum has acids or retinoids.” Always take a concern-led approach when including a serum in your routine. Your concern and the active ingredient that will help treat it should be the first points to consider before trying one. “Ingredients like Vitamin C, retinol, lactic acid, niacinamide, azelaic acid, peptides, growth factors, ferulic acid and resveratrol can also be used in the form of a serum,” says Agarwal. “The idea is to use active ingredients more effectively without irritating the skin barrier.”

Word of caution

If you’re experimenting with serum for the first time or have compromised your skin barrier by using too many, here’s a guide by Agarwal to ensure that you make good choices for your skin, moving forward. “Avoid adding multiple serums at the same time for different skin problems in your routine as it can lead to more issues. Start with a serum that addresses your primary skin concern (e.g. hyperpigmentation or acne) and gradually add the next serum. This is to test and build your skin’s tolerance and prevent any unpleasant side effects.

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