Purslane is a cop-worthy ingredient for maturing and sensitive skin

If you’ve burnt your hands trying every anti-ageing ingredient in the market, chances are you haven’t stumbled upon the dermatologist-approved purslane

The comeback of an Ayurvedic or a botanical ingredient every other day is perhaps a reminder to not settle for potent modern actives. While vitamin C is touted as the quintessential skin brightener, saffron does an equally impressive job at lending skin a certain radiance. And if hyaluronic acid boosts moisture, ashwagandha can accelerate the production of natural oils in your skin. The conclusion? You don’t have to force your skin into adapting retinol, for instance, if maturing skin is a burning concern; natural (read: botanical) ingredients like bakuchiol or purslane can provide results too, minus any risk factor.

While much has been written about bakuchiol—we recently chalked out a detailed bulletin on it too—purslane hasn’t received the limelight it deserves, being largely obfuscated in the marketing communication (of a product that contains it) and shrouded in the ingredient label. We speak to two expert dermatologists who shed light on purslane’s many benefits.

What is purslane?

If you type this question in Google’s search bar, “an extract of the succulent Portulaca oleracea, native to North Africa, the Middle East and the Indian subcontinent” is what will crop up, but let’s break it down further. “Portulaca Oleracea, or purslane, is one of the most powerful herbal ingredients and deemed a ‘superfood’ by the Scientific World Journal,” shares Dr Barbara Sturm, esthetics doctor and founder of luxurious personal care brand, Dr Strum. “It’s an edible leafy green plant full of anti-inflammatory nutrients and antioxidants such as omega-3 fatty acids and skin-benefiting minerals like calcium, magnesium and potassium,” she furthers. 

Additionally, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad shares, “With up to 93 per cent of water, purslane is also rich in antioxidants like beta-carotene, glutathione, melatonin, vitamin C and E. The benefits of this ingredient are umpteen and it has hence been incorporated into moisturisers, serums and cleansers, says the skin expert. “Purslane is an edible vegetable and can be eaten raw or cooked too; it has a salty and sour taste. It’s packed with fatty acids and melatonin, making it a great superfood for heart health and better sleep respectively.”

Benefits galore

Purslane’s most well-known benefit is its anti-ageing property. “Each time a cell divides, telomeres (DNA sequences) are snipped shorter, until eventually, they stop working and the cell dies or goes into a suspended state. The process is associated with ageing-related wear and tear of the skin,” shares Sturm. Explaining how purslane helps, she adds, “Telomerase activators like purslane have been studied by experts at the Harvard University to not only slow the ageing process but also reverse it. It has been shown to work both topically and orally which is why we use it in our skincare products and supplements.” 

Besides the key ability to slow down the skin’s ageing process, purslane hosts a slew of good-for-your-skin nutrients like vitamin A and C, glutathione and beta-carotene, which stimulate the skin’s renewal processes and reduces the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, says Sturm. “It has been clinically studied for the last decade for its powerful anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, nutritive and wound-healing properties. The plant’s extract also soothes irritation, moisturises the skin, enhances the healing and repair of cellular damage and neutralises free-radical damage caused by environmental stressors,” she adds. In concurrence, Sharad says, “It reduces tanning and blemishes on the skin, improves hydration, and thereby, reduces dryness.”

Besides the key ability to slow down the skin’s ageing process, purslane hosts a slew of good-for-your-skin nutrients like vitamin A and C, glutathione and beta-carotene, which stimulate the skin’s renewal processes and reduces the visible appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, says Sturm. “It has been clinically studied for the last decade for its powerful anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, nutritive and wound-healing properties. The plant’s extract also soothes irritation, moisturises the skin, enhances the healing and repair of cellular damage and neutralises free-radical damage caused by environmental stressors,” she adds. In concurrence, Sharad says, “It reduces tanning and blemishes on the skin, improves hydration, and thereby, reduces dryness.”

But anti-ageing isn’t the only plus point; it’s a sensitive skin-enriching ingredient too. Through her years of research on purslane, Sturm has discovered that purslane extract can combat irritation and be incorporated into nearly all skincare formulations. It is also a key ingredient in most of her eponymous brand’s products, available online via the Nykaa Global Store. 

“The purslane we use is a cold extract (macerate) from the plant, which gets fermented with Lactobacillus (lactic acid bacteria) strains in the lab. Antioxidants, vitamins and amino acids are formed during fermentation and pathogenic germs are suppressed. The result is a bio ferment which has better bioavailability—so it’s more readily absorbed by the skin and is very effective and reliable in concentration.” She claims that purslane can be used in topical creams and serums and works well with other skincare ingredients and is a true herbal medicine. “The Sturm Inside supplements are formulated with purslane to support skin health, protect against oxidative stress and provide powerful anti-ageing benefits to retain a radiant and youthful-looking complexion,” apprises Strum. 

Purslane MVPs

• Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich 

• Paula’s Choice Clinical Niacinamide 20% Treatment

• OTT Skyncare 3-In-1 Sunny Shield SPF Drops

• Dermalogica Ultracalming Serum Concentrate 

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