Is panthenol the next ‘it’ skincare ingredient?

While the ingredient has been in the beauty industry for quite some time, it is finally getting the attention it deserves–here’s why

The beauty terrain—skincare in particular—is chock-a-block with various ingredients today and yet, there’s always room for more. While good ol’ botanicals and plants like aloe and rose as well as substances such as sandalwood and multani mitticontinue to thrive in their prevalent sectors, new-age and advanced combatants like vitamin C, salicylic acid and retinol among others have secured their loyal interest groups across the world. That’s the beauty of beauty—everyone and everything is welcome. 

However, in the last few years, some of the 21st-century ingredients have surpassed their contemporaries to become non-negotiable staples in everyone’s vanity. Case in point: Hyaluronic acid—a hydration booster that works for all skin types. But we’re happy to report that there exists a bunch of unsung heroes that can actually do wonders for your skin and also have the potential to transcend the benefits of these now-mundane ingredients. A bookmark-worthy one? Panthenol.

What exactly is panthenol?

In three words—a double-duty moisturiser. Before getting into its mighty characteristics, here are some basics you should be informed about. “Panthenol, also known as dexpanthenol or pro-vitamin B5, is an alcohol derivative of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5),” shares Dr Niketa Sonavane, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Ambrosia Aesthetics. “It is the precursor of pantothenic acid, so when it is applied to the skin, it will convert into Vitamin B5,” adds Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics. Sonavane reveals that it can be derived from both animal and plant sources. “Panthenol is found naturally in every human cell and has long been used in medicated skin and hair care as well as vitamin supplements,” she explains.

“Panthenol is an excellent moisturising agent,” says Sonavane. Agarwal mentions that the ingredient has been around for years and is present in various products, plus it is also used by dermatologists in various medicated formulations. “Because of its moisturising, soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, panthenol is now a common ingredient in a wide range of skin, hair and personal care products including shampoos, conditioners and deep hydration masks. It is also widely found in cleansers, moisturisers, lotions, serums, creams, sunscreens as well as toners,” adds Sonavane. 

What makes panthenol a standout?

“Panthenol is a stable form of vitamin B5 and the latter has the ability to bind and retain water, resulting in soft, moisturised skin,” shares Sonavane. “It reduces TEWL or transepidermal water loss (water that evaporates through the skin). Skincare products containing panthenol in concentrations ranging from 1-5 per cent can aid in giving the skin a more supple feel and appearance by rapidly hydrating skin and promoting barrier repair.” Agarwal points out panthenol’s barrier-fortifying perquisite as well, which comes as a positive by-product of its powerful TEWL action. “Panthenol promotes skin healing by assisting in the production of new skin cells. These functions also aid in reducing inflammation and irritation,” says Sonavane, leaving us convinced about its superpowers.

Addressing the elephant in the room: Is panthenol really better than hyaluronic acid, the ultimate source of hydration that is treasured for its skin-plumping and softening properties? “Hyaluronic acid is only a humectant, which means that it draws water from external and internal sources to the skin when applied whereas panthenol is a humectant as well as an emollient. Emollients keep the water sealed in the skin and soften it by repairing the barrier,” explains Agarwal, vindicating panthenol’s double-duty power. “They can be combined together for deep hydration and barrier repair if you are undergoing clinical skin procedures or using retinol,” points out Sonavane. 

The powerhouse of moisture is also often compared with niacinamide, but there’s a substantial difference. Agarwal tells us that while the former is a vitamin B5, the latter is a vitamin B3. “Both belong to the vitamin B complex family,” she shares. “While panthenol soothes the skin, niacinamide is better at its antioxidant and anti-seborrheic activity. In fact, both of them work beautifully when used together.”

Should you use panthenol?

Hell yeah! It’s a deal that’s unskippable. Using a panthenol-enriched product ensures optimum levels of moisture as well as hydration. Yes, they are two different things. “People with all skin types can use vitamin B5 or panthenol because it is a humectant (it attracts and binds water) and an emollient (it seals the moisture into the skin) and promotes blemish reduction. It is especially beneficial for people with dry or flaky skin, mature skin and those suffering from more severe conditions such as rosacea, eczema and psoriasis,” says Sonavane. “Using panthenol lip cream provides immediate relief to dry and stressed lips, lubricating and softening them.” 

To make your life–and shopping for panthenol–easier, Agarwal shares, “It is listed in products as provitamin B5, dexpanthenol, butanamide and D-pantothenyl alcohol.” As always, there are some caveats with panthenol too–not very major, but significant enough. “Prolonged and continuous use of products containing high levels of panthenol may, ironically, be harmful to your skin’s health. Cases of skin rash and irritation, for example, have been reported among users of high-strength panthenol,” reveals Sonavane. To reap the benefits of panthenol to the fullest sans any predicaments, stick to the aforementioned concentration of the ingredient (1-5 per cent) and look for serum and cream concoctions that amalgamate the ingredient with other nourishing agents like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, aloe vera, peptides and shea butter, to name a few.

Also Read: Is snail slime really the ultimate anti-ageing, anti-acne ingredient?

Also Read: The perils of using oxidised vitamin C on your skin

Also Read: 5 skincare ingredients everyone will be talking about in 2023