Glycolic acid is the AHA that benefits more than just facial skin

While the chemical exfoliant has been one of the most sought-after actives to achieve brighter and smoother skin, it has a lot more to offer

Like most skincare aficionados, if umpteen bottles of toners and serums occupy your shelves, it is quite likely that a clutch of these products contain glycolic acid. As an ingredient, glycolic acid has successfully garnered interest, perhaps, because it passes as one of the more no-frills and adaptable ingredients when compared to other contingent ones such as retinol or benzoyl peroxide. Beauty brand Pixi claims to sell over 5,00,000 bottles of Glow Tonic—a product that’s almost synonymous with glycolic acid—every year, which further explains the popularity of the ingredient. 

However, for the longest time, glycolic acid has been linked with improved skin alone, which may have left us oblivious to the many additional head-to-toe benefits it has to offer. We speak to two skin experts who weigh in their opinion on glycolic acid and how you can make the best of it. 

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) that chemically exfoliates your skin to make it smoother, even-toned and healthier. “It is naturally derived from fruits—mainly sugar cane and pineapple extracts—and is water-soluble,” shares Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist, Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Being an AHA, it is gentle on the skin despite its considerable effectiveness on pigmentation, congested pores and overall texture. However, it is believed to be the most potent AHA, given that it contains the smallest molecular weight for any AHA.

However, evening out the skin, cleaning up the pores and smoothening the skin are benefits that can be leveraged by your entire body. So why haven’t we exposed the ingredient to other parts of the body yet? 

Understanding the basics

From toners and serums to active-infused moisturisers and exfoliating pads, glycolic acid has made its way to almost every skincare product. “Glycolic acid exfoliates dead skin cells and helps in skin-cell renewal which contributes to smooth, bright skin. Being a small molecule, it can penetrate deeper into the dermis and accelerate new collagen production by stimulating fibroblast activity. Studies have shown that it can also help with photoaging by offering protection against UV-B rays,” says Agarwal. However, just as it would apply to any other active, moderation is key.

It’s important to review the concentration of this AHA as well as be mindful of the number of glycolic acid-infused products you use. “Concentrations between 5-10 per cent of glycolic acid are considered most effective for exfoliation on a regular basis. There are also more intense, rinse-off glycolic acid peels featuring higher concentrations of AHAs, which you can use at home occasionally, about once a week, to improve the look of deeper wrinkles,” says Bryan Barron, director of skincare research, Paula’s Choice in a blog post on the brand’s website.

“It is a good add-on for oily and acne-prone skin and can be used in higher concentrations for such skin types. People with dry and sensitive skin should avoid using it and if they absolutely must, it should be done cautiously with a lesser frequency and in lower concentrations after a patch test; it helps if the formulations contain additives like lipids and glycerin,” suggests Agarwal. 

What’s in it for the body?

In the past few years, a lot of beauty influencers and celebrities have been vocal about how texture and bumps have been permanent residents on the areas like arms, thighs and for some, even the butt. Recently, a bunch of beauty content creators have used their social media platforms to speak about their struggles with ‘bacne’ (acne on the back) as well as butt acne. This goes to prove the blurring of lines between skincare and body care. Hence, watching out for glycolic acid in your body washes, body lotions and creams might be helpful. Besides investing in such body care products, you can slather a glycolic acid solution, like The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution, all over your body and seal it with a nourishing body cream to keep potential irritation at bay; it’s ideal to follow this ritual in the night because glycolic acid can increase photosensitivity.

According to Dr Meghna Gupta, dermatologist and founder, Delhi Skin Centre, a high concentration of glycolic acid is prescribed for body pigmentation and in case of keratosis pilaris, also known as ‘chicken skin’ for it causes rough, red and itchy bumps on the skin. “It reduces the pigmentation and removes excessive protein formation around hair follicles,” she says. However, “it may not suit everyone as every skin is different and reacts differently with molecules,” warns Agarwal. “It should not be used by sensitive skin, people with eczema, psoriasis and similar dermatological conditions,” she advises.

Heads-up! Your scalp is calling

“Glycolic acid is more versatile than you think,” says Agarwal, hinting at the AHA’s unearthed benefits. Your hair getting exposed to environmental aggressors is a common phenomenon if you live in metropolitan cities. While you happen to observe the damage on your tresses, the gruesome state of the scalp often goes unnoticed. However, your scalp plays a breeding ground for the build-up of dirt, gunk, dust, dandruff and dead skin, tampering with its health.

Glycolic acid can be a remedy in this case too, at least as a rudimentary corrective measure. “Glycolic acid has always been used by dermatologists to treat a dry, flaky scalp and dandruff. Those with an oily scalp may highly benefit from it since it removes dead skin cells and excess oil, thereby reducing greasiness and flakiness,” says Agarwal. She advises avoiding the AHA if the scalp is irritated or has an active infection like folliculitis. Dr Gupta advises applying a lower concentration of glycolic acid on the scalp as a pre-wash treatment for about 10-20 minutes.

As a word of caution, Agarwal says, “As it is a chemical exfoliator, it shouldn’t be used on the face and scalp every day. In lower concentration, it can be used on the body daily; however, it may vary individually depending on the skin condition.” She also recommends patch-testing and seeking professional advice from a dermatologist.

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