Could the best skin exfoliators be found in fruits?

Fruit enzymes might be powerhouses that aid brightening and cell regeneration for every skin type

It’s fair to say that the feeling of freshly exfoliated skin is almost akin to getting a haircut—you instantly look and feel brighter. Over the past decade, exfoliators seem to have gotten a bad reputation due to the environmental impact of microbeads and some being too harsh, leading to skin damage. If you’re still using a St. Ives face scrub from your teenage years, it’s time to stop. Upgrade your skincare routine by incorporating an enzyme-based exfoliator.

“Enzymes, a form of protein molecules, are biocatalysts and work by facilitating a chemical reaction on the skin to dissolve dry, hardened skin cells and encourage the growth of new, healthy cells to take their place,” explains Prachi Bhandari, cosmetologist and co-founder of skincare brand AMINU. Their primary uses are exfoliation and anti-inflammation, making enzyme-based exfoliators safe for even those with sensitive or highly reactive skin (after a patch test, of course). Dr. Chytra V Anand, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist, founder and CEO, Kosmoderma Skin & Hair Clinics, and chief formulator, SkinQ, confirms, “They work by breaking the protein bond in the dead cells in the upper layer of the skin, which is the epidermis, providing a gentle exfoliation of the surface skin.”

So can you use fruits on your skin?

While a lot of DIY recipes call for using fruits and vegetables directly on your skin, in this case, different enzymes are extracted from fruits and made into potent formulas that are gentle yet effective. “Enzyme-based skincare is the mildest of all known natural exfoliants. Some of the most common fruit enzymes include papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple, and enzymes from pumpkin and cranberries. These are gentle skin exfoliants and suitable for all skin types,” says Anand. Bhandari adds, “These enzymes are extracted through a fermentation process, which is similar to winemaking. After fermentation, these enzymes are included in skincare products following trials and proper quality checks.”

Picking the right fruit enzyme for your skin

Reading the ingredients label will allow you to choose the perfect enzyme exfoliator for your skin’s needs. Bhandari, who formulates products for her skincare brand AMINU, shares a handy guide.

• The bromelain enzyme from pineapple acts like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and helps remove dead skin cells, also providing anti-inflammatory benefits.

• Papain from papaya dissolves the keratin protein layer and helps increase the skin's elasticity. 

• The most popular one, pumpkin enzymes, boosts collagen production and speeds up skin cell renewal. 

• Enzymes from kiwi, mango, pomegranate and banana extracts help with dirt, bacteria and dead skin cells, preventing them from accumulating on the skin’s surface, thanks to their natural chemical-exfoliating and anti-bacterial benefits, also simultaneously moisturising the skin.

Word of caution

As is the case with most skincare, there are a few things to keep in mind when trying an enzyme-based exfoliant. Anand explains:

• Be cautious if you are sensitive to the fruit of origin.

• Don’t expose your bare skin to the sun after using enzymes—always use sun protection.

• Avoid any exfoliating procedures after an enzyme peel.

• Enzymes are sensitive to temperature and PH, so storage in a cool, dark place is critical to avoid denaturing the products.

You can use enzymes as cleansers, exfoliators or masks. If you’re starting off with a cleanser or exfoliator, use it 2-3 times a week to give your skin time to adjust to it. If you’re a fan of face masks and choose to go down that route, use it once or twice a week. Here’s our edit of the best enzyme exfoliators across categories that are worth including in your skincare routine: 

1. Dr. Barbara Sturm Enzyme Cleanser

2. Peter Thomas Roth Pumpkin Enzyme Mask

3. Elemis Papaya Enzyme Peel

4. Prakti PritiPolish Instant Glow Exfoliator

5. Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Exfoliating Treatment

6. Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant

7. Clean Your Dirty Face Flash Facial

8. Grown Alchemist Enzyme Facial Exfoliant

9. Aminu AHA Face Wash

10. Herbivore Brighten Pineapple Enzyme + Gemstone Instant Glow Mask

11. Wishful Yo Glow Enzyme Scrub

12. Mario Badescu Enzyme Cleansing Gel

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