8 ingredient combinations that do wonders for common skin concerns

These ingredient duos are effective enough to combat the most recurring skin issues

As the world of skincare has evolved, our access to information and up-to-the-minute products has also increased incredibly. This means that the minute we notice a zit surfacing on our face or excessive oiliness or dryness, we have a stash full of seemingly efficacious formulations that include chemical active ingredients to tackle concerns with an uber science-backed approach. While dunking your skin in a ceramide cream or lactic acid serum may be a good idea to unveil a softer, smoother and healthier visage, most—if not all—actives come with a side of caveats that you must be cognisant of. 

Using a combination of two active ingredients may actually turn out to be fruitful, given that you put double the efficacy and potency to work. In the skincare glossary, this is called ‘ingredient cocktailing’.

“Ingredient cocktailing refers to the practice of layering two complementary skincare actives or ingredients in tandem, to get the best of both worlds and to create a combination or a formulation that is customised to your skin’s type, concerns and needs,” explains Dr Manasi Shirolikar, consultant dermatologist and founder, drmanasiskin.com. “It also benefits the skin by targeting multiple issues at the same time. Plus, when you mix actives or even ingredients together (two or more), you could actually end up enhancing the results, achieve your skincare goals and also make your products work better for you, gaining maximum benefits.”

We draw up a list of some of the best ingredient pairings that can address common concerns faced by every skin type.

Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin C

One is hydrating, the other is brightening—a  duo that every skin type could benefit from. “When paired together, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C make for a fantastic cocktail that helps repair skin damage, boosts collagen production, hydrates and brightens the skin, and also provides anti-ageing benefits. As a pair, they also protect the skin from environmental and free radical damage, thus helping you have healthy and glowing skin,” says Shirolikar. According to Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetician and founder, ISAAC Luxe, the duo can also promote collagen synthesis and restore the plumpness of the skin. While the combination will work for most skin types, Mittal Gupta adds, “Those with sensitive and acne-prone skin should consult a dermatologist before pairing them together in their skincare routine.” Perhaps, because vitamin C could trigger acne for certain skin types. Shirolikar opines that it works best for dry and mature skin types.

Arbutin + Glycolic Acid

If pigmentation is amongst the top three skin concerns that you’re battling, consider this duo to be a powerful antidote to an uneven complexion. While glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is a hard-working do-it-all, alpha arbutin is a natural alternative to hydroquinone (a common skin-lightening agent that is supposedly toxic) and is derived from plants of berries such as blueberries and cranberries. “Together, they work on reducing hyperpigmentation, thus leading to brighter skin with an even skin tone, and a reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, boosting collagen production. Plus, it works well to unclog pores and prevent breakouts,” says Shirolikar. Mittal Gupta also considers the pair as a great preventative measure against sun damage and early signs of ageing. “It will suit all skin types, except sensitive skin as it can be harsh,” she apprises. “Also, since it has anti-acne and anti-blemish properties, it could be well suited for someone with oily, acne-prone skin,” adds Shirolikar.

Salicylic Acid + Niacinamide

If you haven’t heard of the term ‘salicinamide’ yet, it’s the potent combination of salicylic acid and niacinamide; together they make for a one-stop solution for every concern that oily skin types can face. Anti-acne, decongesting and controlling sebum secretion are just some of the main characteristics of this duo. “Both star ingredients for acne treatments, salicylic acid and niacinamide, when layered in the same routine, lend a host of benefits, including unclogging of pores, reduction of inflammation and prevention of future breakouts,” begins Shirolikar, “They work together to regulate sebum production, thus removing excess oiliness, without drying out the skin, while improving its texture.” According to Mittal Gupta, by incorporating niacinamide into your routine, you can counteract potential side-effects from salicylic acid. “It [niacinamide] enhances your skin’s moisture retention, supports barrier function and helps reduce redness.” However, if you use niacinamide in isolation, “you may not experience the deep-cleansing effect that salicylic acid offers to your pores,” says Mittal Gupta. 

Glycolic Acid + Lactic Acid

Both lactic acid and glycolic acid are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which makes them a skin-resurfacing duo. These chemical exfoliants slough away dead skin cells without disturbing your skin’s moisture levels or barrier. “The duo can effectively take care of surface irregularities such as closed comedones which happen when there’s sebum trapped underneath the skin, as well as rough and bumpy texture and mild to moderate hyperpigmentation,” states Mittal Gupta. Explaining why it’s also a combination worth considering for mature skin, she adds, “Both glycolic and lactic acid will improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, especially in areas where the skin is thinner such as the forehead. They also have hydrating and moisturising properties, useful for plumping and reviving the skin’s youthful and glowy complexion.” However, if you have extremely sensitive or dry skin, it’s best advised to patch-test both the ingredients individually as well as in cohesion to observe how your skin reacts.

Peptides + Collagen

The moment you read ‘peptides’ and ‘collagen,’ it’s quite likely that a picture of plump, bouncy and healthy-looking skin will flash in your mind. And that benefit of this duo is exactly what makes it so universally flattering. “Amino acids present in both ingredients work wonders together and give synergistic benefits. The ability of the peptides to go deeper and bind with water molecules helps the skin to maintain proper water content during the day. Aside from being a natural humectant, collagen’s film-forming properties reduce trans-epidermal water loss,” says Mittal Gupta. “They also improve skin’s hydration by promoting the production of other proteins like elastin and fibrillin that give the skin structure. Therefore, it helps reduce early signs of ageing like wrinkles, fine lines and dark spots.” The combination is best suited for dry, dehydrated and ageing skin.

Ceramides + Hyaluronic Acid

To cop deeply nourished and moisturised skin, an amalgamation of ceramides, which is an emollient, and hyaluronic acid, a humectant, can do wonders. “Together, they reduce transepidermal water loss, improve the skin’s barrier and its functioning, soothe and calm any redness or irritation, and reduce the visible signs of ageing. This ingredient medley is apt for someone with either dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin,” says Shirolikar, who believes that if you have an impaired skin barrier, this combination can help you fix it. “People with normal skin can use it too, as can those with combination or oily skin. However, ceramides could get a little too much for someone with combination or oily skin, so choose ceramide-based products formulated for your skin type,” recommends the dermatologist. 

Niacinamide + Tranexamic Acid

“Even if one of your major skincare concerns includes hyperpigmentation, then this will be one of the best ingredient pairings for you,” says Shirolikar. “It helps you even out your skin tone, whilst treating PIH (pregnancy-induced hypertension), sun spots and melasma, will also help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin, in case of acne or rosacea.” Elaborating on the same, Mittal Gupta says, “Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, and works by regulating melanin overproduction to target dark spots and improve overall skin tone and luminosity. Niacinamide, on the other hand, is a highly stable form of Vitamin B3 that supports smoother, more even skin and improved texture.” This ingredient layering is suited for all skin types, although people with acne-prone skin may particularly benefit more from its anti-inflammatory and hyperpigmentation treating properties, opines Shirolikar.

Retinol + Panthenol/Hyaluronic Acid

We’re all aware of how spiking retinol into your skincare routine can lead to uninvited irritation and redness. And thus, skin experts always suggest adding hydrating ingredients while using retinol or sandwich-ing it between them. “Mixing retinol with a humectant that is either panthenol or hyaluronic acid will help the skin stay moisturised, and allow retinol to work to its fullest (owing to its anti-ageing properties), without drying the skin out, or causing any of the common side-effects such as dryness, irritation, impairing of the skin barrier. Altogether, they work to make the skin appear rejuvenated, smoother and youthful,” says Shirolikar. Panthenol is an emollient which locks moisture into the skin and seals all cracks. So, to use this combination effectively, layer a retinol product with another one that contains both panthenol and hyaluronic acid. “This ingredient mix is suitable for all skin types, but especially for someone with sensitive skin. It will also benefit those with mature skin, or those looking to start an anti-ageing routine,” concludes the doctor.

Also Read: Does the combination of Western actives and Ayurvedic ingredients really help Indian skin?

Also Read: This anti-acne ingredient can also combat blemishes and hyperpigmentation

Also Read: 6 French pharmacy brands nudging K-Beauty off the shelf