This anti-acne ingredient can also combat blemishes and hyperpigmentation

If acne is a persistent concern but ingredients like salicylic acid, retinol and benzoyl peroxide are draconian for your skin, you might want to give azelaic acid a shot

Today, most of us are familiar with the glossary of anti-acne ingredients which includes BHAs (beta hydroxy acid) such as salicylic acid, a couple of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), potent vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and retinoid and other soothing and healing agents like Centella Asiatica, tea tree and witch hazel. Among a slew of ingredients, azelaic acid is one that not only dissipates acne-causing bacteria but also helps diminish post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. A quick conversation with a dermatologist will leave you educated about azelaic acid’s many benefits for all skin types—acne- and pigmentation-prone skin in particular. We speak to three skin experts who give us a primer on the ingredient, what it can do for the skin, and how you can use it to maximise its effectiveness.

What is azelaic acid?

“Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that belongs to the family of saturated dicarboxylic acids. It has a molecular formula of C9H16O4 and is also known as nonanedioic acid,” shares New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi. “It has gained popularity in dermatology due to its various therapeutic properties. It is available in topical formulations and is used for the treatment of several skin conditions, including acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.”

The ingredient can be derived naturally from grains like barley, wheat, and rye, informs Desiree Stordahl, director of Applied Research and Education at Paula’s Choice. “However, the lab-engineered form is typically used in skincare formulas because of its greater stability and effectiveness.” While the primary source of azelaic acid “is a type of yeast called Malassezia furfur and [it] is produced by the yeast during its growth phase, commercially, azelaic acid is typically produced through chemical synthesis as well,” adds Sethi.

What are the benefits?

Azelaic acid is loaded with a mix of skin-bettering properties that you can avail, provided you incorporate it into your skincare routine in the right manner. From antibacterial to anti-inflammatory, the exfoliating acid primarily assists with acne, across stages. “Azelaic acid has antimicrobial properties, which help to reduce the growth of acne-causing bacteria. Plus, it also has anti-inflammatory effects, making it helpful in treating inflammatory acne,” says Sethi. Besides acne, azelaic acid also reduces the appearance of pigmentation and dark spots and slows down the early signs of ageing too. 

Stordahl says that apart from offering mild exfoliating action that helps refine skin’s surface, it’s an antioxidant, which also means that it can offset free-radical damage, contributing to healthier, younger-looking skin. “The acid has been found to inhibit the activity of an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is involved in the production of melanin. By reducing melanin production, it [azelaic acid] can help fade hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone,” explains Sethi. The skin expert also highlights the extensive employment of azelaic acid as an approved treatment for rosacea, a chronic inflammatory skin condition. “It helps to reduce redness, inflammation, and papules associated with rosacea.” She informs that since the acid protects the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress, it also reduces the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles.

Azelaic acid versus other anti-acne ingredients

“Azelaic acid, beta hydroxy acid (BHA), and benzoyl peroxide are all effective treatments for acne, but they work in different ways,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist and founder of Ambrosia Aesthetics, Dr Niketa Sonavane. While azelaic acid helps to regulate cell turnover, reduce inflammation, and target bacteria, making it beneficial for mild to moderate acne, BHAs such as salicylic acid penetrate the pores and help to exfoliate the skin, making it particularly effective for treating blackheads and whiteheads, she explains. “Benzoyl peroxide has antibacterial properties and is often used for treating inflammatory acne. The choice between these ingredients may depend on the individual’s skin type and the severity of their acne. It is best to consult with a dermatologist to determine the most suitable treatment.”

The best part about azelaic acid? Its compatibility with all skin types, including sensitive skin. “While all three ingredients [salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid] can be effective in treating acne, azelaic acid is particularly beneficial for individuals with sensitive skin or those who experience irritation from potent ingredients like BHA or benzoyl peroxide as it is generally well-tolerated and has a lower risk of causing skin dryness or irritation compared to the other two ingredients,” furthers Sethi.

Do’s and don’ts of including it in your skincare regime

The underrated anti-acne treatment is largely suitable for all skin types. The most common side-effects include mild skin irritation, dryness, and redness, especially when starting to use the product, shares Sonavane. “These effects are usually temporary and subside as the skin adjusts. In rare cases, individuals may experience allergic reactions or severe skin irritation. If you experience any concerning side-effects, it is advisable to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist,” she suggests. As a thumb rule, it’s key to conduct a patch test when you include any new active ingredient in your skincare regimen. And, if any kind of reaction or allergy surfaces, it’s best to give the ingredient a break and consult your dermatologist as soon as possible. “Pregnant or breastfeeding individuals should also consult with a healthcare professional before using azelaic acid,” adds Sonavane.

From gentle cleansers, moisturisers, and sunscreen to a comprehensive skincare routine, the ingredient can be used in conjunction with other topical acne treatments, such as retinoids or BHA, as recommended by a dermatologist. “However, it is generally advised to avoid combining it with products that have a very low or very high pH, as this may affect its stability and efficacy,” advises Sonavane. According to Sethi, azelaic acid can be paired with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C, while it should be avoided with strong AHAs, Hydroxychloroquine, and hydroquinone. 

Some of our most-recommended products with azelaic acid:

1. 10% Azelaic Acid Booster, Paula’s Choice

2. Azelac RU Liposomal Serum, Sesderma

3. Pigmentbio C- Concentrate, Bioderma

4. Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% Cream, The Ordinary 

5. Mattifying Azelaic Acid Face Serum, Typology Paris

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