Does the combination of Western actives and Ayurvedic ingredients really help Indian skin?

Several beauty brands bet on the blend of modern actives with traditional ingredients. But are products championing such formulations superior to the ones that don’t?

Conventionally, the consumption patterns of beauty products were classified into two broad categories—natural and not-so-natural, for chemical active ingredients, what products in the second category predominantly consisted of, was largely an alien concept. However, today, the lines between both are blurring. Whether it’s the Ashwagandha Bounce moisturiser from 82°E that parades Ashwagandha and sodium hyaluronate on the jar or the PM Sunset Restore Serum from indē wild that contains both bakuchiol and peptides or the Haldi & Hyaluronic Acid Sunscreen from Dr Sheth’s, the recently-germinated category of products that helm the ‘modern-meets-traditional’ promise has only been proliferating of late. 

Not just in the Indian beauty market, but even internationally, brands like RANAVAT, Aavrani and Sachi Skin are paving the way for the globalisation of this newborn variety of hybrid products. We speak with brands to understand what propels them to combine two potent yet discrete philosophies and ask dermatologists if the combination really does any good to the skin.  

Why do brands find the synergy valuable?

The list of brands employing the best of both worlds has only been expanding, and there is a solid reason to do that. The Deepika Padukone-founded skincare brand 82°E is Indian in its ethos and global in its outlook. “The duality [of our formulations] informs every practice we share. By combining time-tested holistic practices with the latest in innovation, we help you consciously commit to nourishing your mind, body and spirit with self-care rituals that work,” says Dr Rachna Rastogi, formulator at 82°E.

“Natural, Ayurvedic and traditional Indian ingredients have been used for centuries in skincare routines and are believed to offer various benefits,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad, hinting at the category’s success in standing the test of time. In consensus, even Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, founder of ISAAC Luxe, believes that many Ayurvedic ingredients can be useful in tackling skin problems if used properly. However, she says that skincare products featuring a cocktail of new-age and age-old ingredients aren’t really a recently-invented concept, even if it may be a new product category. “If we look closely, most skincare ingredients, even in allopathy, are derived or inspired by nature; it’s more like serving the same food on a different platter.” 

According to Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of Aminu, both modern scientific advancements and traditional wisdom have valuable contributions to offer in skincare. “Modern actives are backed by extensive research and technological advancements, offering targeted solutions for specific skin concerns. They bring cutting-edge innovations and proven efficacy to our formulations. On the other hand, traditional ingredients have stood the test of time and have been used for centuries in various cultures for their beneficial properties. They often carry a wealth of knowledge passed over generations. Traditional ingredients are now also being tested rigorously and provide holistic benefits, nourishing the skin and promoting overall well-being,” she says.

Highlighting the strategic aspects of betting on the power of hybrid formulations, Sharad says that while some brands believe that combining traditional Ayurvedic ingredients with scientifically-proven active ingredients can enhance the overall efficacy of the product, consumers also appreciate the inclusion of traditional ingredients in skincare products as that is often perceived as ‘natural’ and ‘holistic’. “Brands are able to cater to consumers who value both natural and evidence-based approaches to skincare by blending both ideologies,” opines the dermatologist. 

How does the fusion benefit the skin?

Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Yavana Aesthetics, is in favour of the combination as it works well for skin, provided it is manufactured appropriately. “Chemical active ingredients are potent and deliver results; however, they could come with their share of side-effects. Ayurvedic ingredients, on the other hand, are helpful for the skin but are mild and take time to work or may not even provide the desired results. But both combined together means coupling the benefits of both medicines with superior results and lesser side-effects.” 

Traditional Indian ingredients possess natural properties that can benefit the skin, while scientific compounds are designed based on extensive research, says Rastogi. “We carefully study the properties of each of these ingredients to understand how they can offer efficacy, especially when combined together.” She goes on to exemplify the same through one of the brand’s products, the Turmeric Shield SPF 40 PA+++. “The lightweight sunscreen serum is packed with the healing properties of turmeric and ceramides. While turmeric, a potent ingredient known for its antioxidant properties, helps to soothe irritable skin and protect it against harsh free radicals and environmental stressors like dirt, dust and pollution, ceramides help to replenish the skin’s natural lipid levels to trap moisture in the skin.”

Along the same lines, Bhandari talks about how the fusion particularly proves to be beneficial for Indian skin. “Any skin’s needs depend on intrinsic factors (genetic, hormonal and lifestyle) and extrinsic (weather, pollution levels). Indian skin is prone to hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, often caused by factors like sun exposure, hormonal changes, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”  

However, it is important to understand that none of what has been stated above can be taken into account as blanket statements. While someone’s skin may be highly tolerant to potent actives and ingredients, those with sensitive skin types, a compromised skin barrier or conditions like psoriasis and eczema will need an entirely different set of products with carefully administered ingredients. Just like active ingredients such as retinol can be too harsh on certain skin types, natural ingredients like tea tree oil, turmeric or other botanical herbs can also trigger potential reactions. Sharad agrees: “It is important to note that individual results may vary, and not all products will work equally well for everyone. Skin sensitivity, allergies and specific skin concerns should be considered when selecting products, and it’s always a good idea to perform a patch test before using new products.” She also highlights that not all combinations may work well together. “Some ingredients may interact or counteract each other, potentially leading to irritation or diminished efficacy. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose products from reputable brands that prioritise safety and efficacy, and to follow usage instructions carefully.”

Would the ingredients be more effective separately?

While the final product of the combination of an Ayurvedic ingredient and chemical active has the dermatologists’ stamp of approval, can the dichotomous ingredients work better individually? “Although active ingredients of modern medicine are enough to solve our skin problems if we apply them after consulting a dermatologist, if you want to cater yourself with both allopathic actives and also with the Ayurvedic bent of mind, there is nothing wrong with using products that combine both,” believes Mittal Gupta. “In skincare, combining ingredients can often lead to synergistic effects, where the combined action of multiple ingredients enhances their overall efficacy. Whether ingredients work better separately or in conjunction depends on the specific ingredients and their intended effects,” adds Sharad.

Enumerating combinations that pass the safety check for most skin types, Mittal Gupta mentions opting for a moisturiser that blends Ayurvedic herbs such as turmeric, saffron and aloe vera with actives such as vitamin C and sodium hyaluronate; for anti-ageing purposes, Ayurvedic herbs like Gotu Kola, bakuchiol and Ashwagandha with actives like squalane and lecithin are great. “Our products incorporate ingredients like vitamin C, gallic acid, licorice root extract and many more, which are known for their brightening properties,” shares Bhandari. 

Pure Kumkumadi Tailam sourced from Kerala is the only natural product Sharad likes using since it doesn’t disturb her sensitive skin. “In summary, the combination of chemical active ingredients and traditional Ayurvedic ingredients in skincare products can be an interesting approach, as long as it is done thoughtfully, with proper formulation and backed by scientific research. Ultimately, individual preferences, skin type, and specific skincare needs should guide the decision-making process when selecting skincare products,” she concludes.

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