How drastically should your skincare routine change during pregnancy and breastfeeding?

While your skin does become vulnerable to many concerns during pregnancy, you must be wary of using harsh ingredients. Here’s the dermat-approved primer you didn’t know you needed

If retinol, niacinamide, salicylic acid, azelaic acid or glycolic acid are friends you (and your skin) meet and greet twice a day, some of that changes when you are pregnant. A couple of years ago, when following an established skincare routine wasn’t the norm, women continued using their Cetaphil cleanser and Nivea moisturiser before, during and after the pregnancy phase; there was no such thing as a ‘pregnancy skincare routine’. However, the advent of chemical active ingredients and their use in everyday skincare regimens don’t allow for the same. This is because most high-performance chemical actives are complex in nature, unlike glycerin and ceramides, which could pose hazardous risks for your baby during both pregnancy and breastfeeding phases. However, one can’t deny that during this period, your skin becomes susceptible to a slew of changes—for instance, pigmentation, acne, dryness, sensitivity and irritation. So, can you omit skincare entirely? Not really. Three seasoned dermatologists help us chalk out a primer on all the skincare do’s and don’ts during the pregnancy and breastfeeding phases.

Why should you revisit your skincare routine?

Before you begin noting down the primer on pregnancy skincare, it’s important to understand why exactly you need to tweak your routine. Being cognisant of the jeopardies associated with chemical active-laden products will encourage you to thoroughly scrutinise the ingredient label before purchasing any skincare product. “Certain chemical actives, particularly those with a small molecular size, can cross the placenta (the organ that develops in the uterus during pregnancy and supplies blood and oxygen to the foetus) and enter the bloodstream, potentially affecting the developing foetus. Additionally, some studies suggest that these ingredients may interfere with hormonal signalling pathways, which are crucial for foetal development,” shares Dr Sravya Tipirneni, dermatologist and trichologist at Manipal Hospitals in Bengaluru. This theory is especially applicable to potent ingredients such as retinoids, salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide. “Topical application of certain chemical actives during breastfeeding may also raise concerns. These ingredients could potentially be transferred to the infant through breast milk and affect their developing systems,” adds Tipirneni.

Besides the potential threats for your baby, you also need to switch things up in your skincare routine because of the changes your skin will undergo. Your otherwise oily skin could experience unusual dryness and vice versa, or acne might begin to nestle in on your epidermis. “Skin experiences changes during the pregnancy and breastfeeding phases as it goes through myriad hormonal fluctuations; immunity levels change and blood circulation increases, making the skin more sensitive to external factors. There is also a rise in the androgen hormones in this phase, subsequently increasing oil production, which is why acne breakouts are common,” shares Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics. The delicate balance between maintaining an effective skincare routine and safeguarding against adverse effects on the foetus or nursing infant, therefore, underscores the need for informed decisions, says New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi.

Do’s and don’ts to keep in mind

You don’t need to dissipate your skincare cabinet entirely when you’re pregnant—except for some ingredients that must be eliminated. “Chemical actives like retinoids and salicylic acid can potentially interfere during pregnancy as high doses of these ingredients may be absorbed into the bloodstream, raising concerns about developmental risks for the foetus,” reiterates Sethi. Agarwal elaborates, “The actives that are hazardous are retinoids (like tretinoin and adapalene) or retinols, hydroquinone, kojic acid, and formaldehyde. Certain sunscreen ingredients to be avoided are oxybenzone, octinoxate, and homosalate, as they impact one’s hormones. Some other ingredients I think would be best avoided include parabens and phthalates, commonly found in products such as shampoos, soaps, and body creams, besides cleansers and face creams. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide should be avoided in pregnancy, and must be used with caution when you’re breastfeeding.” Tipirneni also recommends to keep away from products with higher concentrations of glycolic acid.

A consistent skincare routine is a must during both phases, says Agarwal, indicating that a face wash, moisturiser, and sunscreen—that adhere to your skin type and concerns—must be used. According to Sethi, you can stick to basic actives:  hyaluronic acid for hydration, glycolic acid for gentle exfoliation, vitamin C to brighten the skin, and niacinamide to address oiliness and balance the skin. “Ingredients that are safe to use are azelaic acid, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, arbutin, ferulic acid, vitamins C and E, and sunscreens with titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. In case you begin struggling with acne, azelaic acid works as a good anti-acne and -pigmentation solution. If pigmentation crops up as a major concern, pigmentation-defying agents such as arbutin, licorice, vitamin C, and ferulic acid can regulate the melanin activity and keep it in check,” shares Agarwal. She also names mandelic acid and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) as safe alternatives to harsh chemical exfoliants. 

Sethi suggests opting for fragrance-free products to prevent irritation, switching to mineral sunscreens for maximised safety (as some chemical sunscreen agents can be absorbed in the bloodstream), and using mild cleansers to avoid over-drying of the skin. Agarwal vouches for the benefits of hydrating sleep masks containing niacinamide, collagen, and Cica to moisturise the skin and balance the oiliness. “Moisturisers for the body should not be neglected as pregnancy can increase flare of rashes and allergies,” advises the skin expert. “Natural oils like coconut oil, shea butter, and jojoba oil can provide deep hydration and prevent stretch marks and dryness,” says Tipirneni. 

Should you put a halt to in-office treatments?

Not necessarily, opine the dermatologists in concurrence. “Non-invasive procedures, such as facials without harsh chemicals or mild sugar- or fruit-based peels or an extraction should be fine during pregnancy. Facials, facials, lasers, PRP and other treatments (except botox and, sometimes, fillers) can be done while breastfeeding,” says Sethi. However, “avoid chemical peels and strong lasers due to potential risks and before considering in-office treatments, consult with a healthcare provider,” she furthers. 

Along the same lines, Agarwal adds, “Medifacials, dermal infusions, and oxygen(eo) treatments are good in-clinic treatments to improve the skin’s dullness, control acne, and reverse congested skin problems during both phases. Laser hair removal, however, can be done in the breastfeeding phase, ideally after six months of delivery. One needs to be aware that treatment of hormonal pigmentary changes (such as melasma) and increased facial hair growth caused by pregnancy should not necessarily be treated until the hormones have stabilised, as results may be suboptimal in these situations.”

Also Read: Retinol is a popular skincare ingredient. Should you be ingesting it as a supplement?

Also Read: This anti-acne ingredient can also combat blemishes and hyperpigmentation

Also Read: Your night-time skincare products may not live up to their promise