Are mineral sunscreens better than chemical ones?

While both kinds protect the skin in their own distinct ways, the expert consensus is divided on which one should you take home 

Skipping sunscreen as part of one’s skincare routine is almost unheard of in the recent past. Much of this spiked awareness around sunscreen can be attributed to the digital skincare and beauty community, comprising influencers, beauty editors, beauty brands and even dermatologists. CTMP, or cleanse-treat-moisturise-protect, has become the new CTM, or  cleanse-tone-moisturise, making sunscreen an unmissable staple in your skincare cabinet. Most sunscreens were heavy, greasy, muddy, unblendable and even left a terrible white cast. And this type of sunscreen, called mineral sunscreen, was the only option available in the market. Fortunately, that isn’t the case anymore. Today, there is a plethora of sunscreen options to choose from—mineral, chemical and their hybrids too. However, despite chemical sunscreen’s skyrocketing user-friendliness, some experts continue to swear by mineral sunscreens. We speak to dermatologists to attempt to know more.

Chemical v/s mineral sunscreen

The market is flooded with both categories in equal measure. While chemical sunscreens are preferred for their lightweight, quick-absorbing and zero-white caste properties, mineral sunscreens still have a loyal following owing to their gentle, skin-loving nature and reinvented formulations that aim to minimise the white cast. Dr Jaishree Sharad, celebrity dermatologist and author, informs that while chemical sunscreens are made up of organic compounds like oxybenzone and homosalate, mineral sunscreens consist of  inorganic ingredients like zinc oxide.

Elaborating on both varieties, celebrity dermatologist Dr Niketa Sonavane says, “Mineral sunscreen, also known as a physical blocker or physical sunscreen, contains either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or both. The mineral layer sits atop the skin's surface to absorb UV rays as well as reflect and scatter them away from the skin. It is common for these sunscreens to leave a white cast.” Further explaining chemical sunscreen, she says, “Chemical sunscreens commonly contain the active ingredients avobenzone, octinoxate, oxybenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, and homosalate. These ingredients absorb into the skin, and further absorb UV rays, converting them to heat, and then release them from the body.”

While the distinction between the ingredient complex and way of working of both kinds of sunscreens is crystal clear, there are other factors that set the two further apart. “Mineral sunscreen may feel lumpy, especially if you use make-up over it. It may not be the first choice for acne-prone skin as it can cause breakouts. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, usually feel lighter on the skin and don’t form a white film, but it must be applied 20 minutes prior to stepping out in the sun,” advises Sharad. However, Sonavane thinks differently. “Mineral sunscreens are far safer for people concerned about long-term chemical exposure. They are also suitable for children, those with sensitive skin and melasma. Zinc oxide is also non-comedogenic, which means that it is unlikely to cause acne or breakouts,” she says. If we were to scrutinise the ingredient label of newer, more thoughtfully-developed mineral sunscreens, the good-for-your-skin constituents make them [sunscreens] more universally skin-friendly than they were, whether it’s Daughter Earth’s Sunny Dip sunscreen or Isntree’s Hyaluronic Acid Natural Sun Cream.

Do we have a winner?

Once you educate yourself about the A-Z of both types of sunscreen, it might seem irrational to pick one. According to Sachi Mittal, founder, OTT Skyncare, “While mineral sunscreens act instantly, can be reapplied multiple times and tend to be less irritating, from a protection perspective, chemical sunscreen is always better as it protects the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, and penetrates into the deepest skin layers to prevent the skin from further sun and photo-damage.”

Sonvane believes that chemical sunscreens are more effective than mineral ones in terms of UV protection. They’re also more resistant to water and sweat, making them a better choice when swimming or doing physical activity in the sun.

However, Sonavane has a word of caution. “Melasma can be exacerbated by the heat dissipation of chemical sunscreens. Other than that, it can cause acne breakouts, allergic reactions, and even worsen certain skin conditions involving a compromised skin barrier, such as eczema and psoriasis,” she says. “If you are concerned about health effects, a mineral sunscreen is the best option because chemical sunscreen is known to absorb into the bloodstream through your skin. However, this is also true for mineral sunscreens that are micronised to avoid leaving a white cast.”

Mittal recommends picking chemical sunscreens that have more nourishing and natural ingredients like green tea extract, watermelon extract, aloe vera, Cica and so forth, which are non-comedogenic and complement extremely sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin too. 

A middle ground?

Sonavane strongly recommends giving ‘hybrid’ sunscreens—ones that contain both mineral and chemical ingredients—a shot as they provide the best protection while minimising the shortcomings of both groups and maximising sun protection. “In addition to the typical physical and chemical sunscreen ingredients, a hybrid sunscreen may also contain blue light and HEV light-filtering ingredients such as iron oxide and skin defence-promoting ingredients like fern extract, carotenoids and more,” she adds.

When it comes to choosing a sunscreen, we would suggest you evaluate your outdoor-versus-indoor exposure, activities you’ll indulge in throughout the day, your skin type and active concerns and the ingredients that have gone into the making of a sunscreen—irrespective of whether it is a chemical or mineral one—and then make a well-informed decision.

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