What makes a sunscreen truly safe and clean?

The sunscreen you use might be protecting your skin but is it at the cost of the environment?

If we all had a dollar for every time someone told us the importance of wearing sunscreen every day, we’d never have to work for money. Yes, you know that regular use of sunscreen will prevent premature ageing and skin damage and will offer protection from harmful UV rays. But the more it becomes a daily essential, the more necessary it is to understand how it works, not to forget its effects on us and what’s around us. One of the most frequently asked questions I get and what could be the most complex one to answer is, “Can you recommend a good sunscreen?” Over time, the words ‘clean’ and ‘safe’ have gained precedence in the definition of a good sunscreen, for all the right reasons. It takes a lot for a sunscreen to be both. Broad spectrum, with an SPF value of 30, doesn’t cut it anymore. Will it harm marine life after it’s done protecting you? Does it have toxic ingredients that are linked to cancer and immune system damage? What is the difference between physical and chemical sunscreen and why are there so many types anyway?

Sunscreen pollution is real, and a major threat to coral reefs. Some may even contain ingredients that cause hormone disruption and organ system toxicity in humans. Scary as it sounds, there may not exist a 100 per cent clean sunscreen that safeguards humans as well as the planet. So I decided to ask sunscreen makers what they’re doing to come close to that point, and what, according to them, makes a clean and safe sunscreen?

The checklist

A sunscreen’s primary goal is to block the sun’s ultraviolet radiation from penetrating the skin, by either absorbing or reflecting the rays. A ‘broad spectrum’ one will protect the skin from UVA and UVB. A physical or mineral sunscreen will scatter the UV rays and will contain ingredients like zinc or titanium dioxide. A chemical sunscreen–made up of ingredients such as avobenzone, homosalate, octocrylene or oxybenzone–absorbs the UV rays and turns them into heat. The former is gentler and hence can be used by those with sensitive skin; the latter doesn’t feel heavy on the skin and doesn’t usually leave a white cast. But some of these ingredients may be causing more large-scale damage as opposed to doing their job, that is to protect your skin.

The big (N)O

Typically, a sunscreen is made up of active ingredients (that protect from UV) as well as supporting or inactive ingredients. One of the most notorious and infamous actives, oxybenzone, found abundantly in sunscreen for its powerful protection from UV, is also the most harmful for coral reefs. Many states and islands across the world–such as Palau, the Virgin Islands and some parts of Mexico–have banned similar toxic ingredients that harm ocean life. In 2018, Hawai'i issued its first statewide ban on sunscreens that contain chemicals oxybenzone and octinoxate. Also known as Benzophenone 3, oxybenzone is persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT). Studies have linked it to cancer, endocrine disruption and organ system toxicity. It was also named Contact Allergen of the Year for 2014 by the American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS). So, naturally, most brands avoid using it.

Re’equil, a homegrown cosmeceutical brand, offers three sunscreens, each a different format to suit various skin types. None of them have oxybenzone; instead they contain newer generation filters like emotrizinol and iscotrizinol. “We would call a sunscreen formulated without phthalates, formaldehyde or formaldehyde releasers, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and microplastics a truly clean sunscreen,” says founder of Re’equil, Vipul Gupta.

Minimalist, another homegrown brand that has two sunscreens, an SPF 50 and an SPF 60, uses ingredients like titanium dioxide to protect. It also contains a combination of new-age, photostable filters like Tinosorb S, Uvinul A Plus and Uvinul T 150, considered safe for pregnant and lactating women. Their focus, when it comes to being clean, is on finding the right ingredients and formulations, which includes being free from fragrance, parabens and essential oils, and using highly effective yet safe filters, says Rahul Yadav, COO and co-founder. Their sunscreens do not contain potentially harmful ingredients like OMC (Octyl Methoxycinnamate/ Octinoxate/ Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate), oxybenzone and others. “Most importantly they have been tested by third-party labs. These tests confirm that you get the expected sun protection in all weather conditions,” he adds.

For Dr Aneesh Sheth, third-generation of skincare brand Dr Sheth’s, it was about making a formulation that could lend the most protection and repairative effects that Indian skin needs. “I decided to make a sunscreen bolstered by ceramides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C, in addition to sun filters–the things I know we need in order to counter the damage that Indian skin faces,” he says. When I ask him what he’s refrained from using, it’s oxybenzone.

Conscious consumption

It takes avoiding more than just one testified ingredient with a bad rap for a sunscreen to be clean and safe. One commonality among brands is the inconclusive and official definition of ‘clean’. The term is vast with complex possibilities, making it hard to navigate its true nature. “It’s practically impossible for consumers to know and understand exactly what is in the product they're purchasing, especially when it comes to vastly used cosmetic ingredients, which are called ‘cosmetic grade’,” explains Dr Charlene DeHaven, clinical doctor, iS Clinical.

A sunscreen is regulated as a cosmetic or a drug depending upon the regulation of the country it is manufactured in. So while it’s important to know what your actives are, be wary of the additional inactive ingredients as well, as they could contain toxic metals, pesticides and other unwanted materials. Ultimately, consumers need to be mindful of their choices, and be up to date with guidelines, regulations and safety measures required by brands. “Different countries have different guidelines as far as sunscreens are concerned. Two widely used ones are the FDA (US) guidelines and European Commission (EU) guidelines,” says Yadav. Both have their own recommendations for filters and testing protocols. While sun protection is important, what makes it clean and safe is what your perception and definition of safety is—and how dedicated you are towards making a clean, sustainable switch.

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