Hyped-up ingredients your skincare routine can skip

Dermatologists tell us why these skincare ingredients don’t quite live up to the buzz they otherwise create  

The glossary of skincare ingredients seems to be burgeoning at an unstoppable rate, and so is the perplexity of the consumer who is now presented with a host of chemical actives for a single concern. Keeping up with the rudimentary directory—comprising hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, salicylic acid and niacinamide—doesn’t make the cut any longer, for newer potent chemical actives and skincare ingredients native to Korea and Japan are now a dime a dozen. 

But despite what brands and social media trends proffer, does your skin really need all of it? “Ideally, you just need a basic cleanser and moisturiser, topped with sunscreen. Depending on the problem you’re dealing with, you can add in an ingredient or two. For example, if you have acne scars, you can incorporate a product with niacinamide or a chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid,” says Dr Kiran Sethi, New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense. 

Additionally, while every new chemical active ingredient may host a list of benefits, using too many at once can be counterproductive. “While there is no particular math or protocol set for the number of actives to be used, in an ideal scenario, 2-3 actives can be used—one in the daytime and 1-2 at nighttime,” recommends Dr Madhuri Agarwal, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics. “It’s important to avoid too many active ingredients at a time, and you must give a minimum of 3-6 months for any active to render effective. Using too many actives can, at times, cause skin reactions and disrupt the skin barrier.” We chalk out a list of skincare ingredients that have generated enough buzz don’t really pass the hype test according to dermatologists, so you can streamline your skincare routine.

Snail Mucin

Popularised by CosRx, this K-Beauty ingredient has been marketed as the key to unlocking plumper, softer, and clearer skin. But, how effective is it truly? “Snail mucin is touted to have many benefits like hydration, wound-healing, collagen-boosting, and reduction of inflammation and fine lines, among others. But when you really look at it, most of the evidence is anecdotal,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Rules. And, even if there are a few studies supporting snail mucin’s hype, Agarwal informs that barely any of them have been conducted on humans, and if so, with a higher percentage of 80 per cent [of snail mucin]. “However, regular OTC products have a lower quantity, of about 2 per cent of the ingredient.” Sethi recommends resorting to well-established hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, as snail mucin isn’t significantly more effective than them.

Bakuchiol

Bakuchiol has been peddled as the gentler, natural alternative to retinol, a potent chemical active often lambasted for its reaction-causing properties. While their benefits could be similar, the two cannot be swapped for one another if you’re expecting the same efficacy, suggest experts. “What retinols or retinoids do is boost collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines, age spots, acne, and even out your skin tone,” shares Sharad. “But some skin types may not be able to tolerate retinol. Plus, it is also unsafe during pregnancy. Bakuchiol can be a good alternative for retinoids in these scenarios. However, there are very few and limited studies that have researched bakuchiol and found it to be effective. So where I’d give bakuchiol a go is in the case of sensitive skin, for pregnant women, and for those who have a preference for ‘natural’ products. Besides, ingredients like retinoids and azelaic acid (the latter being safe during pregnancy) are far more evidence-backed than bakuchiol.” 

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid has retained the status of being the ‘it’ acid ever since chemical actives became mainstream. “In my opinion, a hyaluronic acid serum, singularly, doesn’t make a substantial difference to the skin. Humectants in nature, such serums do provide some hydration initially. However, the effect wears out within minutes and the skin starts getting dryer,” says Agarwal. “If you immediately have to layer a moisturiser to make sure your skin doesn’t lose its suppleness, it defeats the purpose of using a hyaluronic acid serum.”If you desire a lasting effect on the skin’s hydration, injectables can be an option, cites Sharad. 

Rose Water

A generous spritz of rose water certainly feels an instant pick-me-up for dull and dehydrated skin, but can cold water render the same effect? Yes, and no, simply because rose water also has a pleasant fragrance, opines Agarwal, who attributes a large chuck of rose water’s hype to its association with Indian beauty traditions. “While it is soothing, it’s wrong that rose water can deliver softer, smoother skin or correct pigmentation.” According to Sharad, splurging on this product doesn’t make sense. “It has proven to have antimicrobial properties that may help with acne reduction and can be used as a spray post workouts. It also contains antioxidants like anthocyanins and flavonoids that help combat free radical damage.”

Collagen

If we go by the brands trying to sell us collagen face creams and supplements, the ingredient can reverse ageing skin effectively. “Right off the bat, let me clarify that collagen is too big a molecule to be absorbed topically. The benefits of collagen—such as hydration, and improvement in skin elasticity and fine lines—cannot be derived by topically applying it. So it’s a no,” says Sharad, dismissing moisturisers and serums featuring collagen. “Collagen supplements do hydrate the skin and improve skin elasticity, but as for reduction in fine lines or improvement in skin sagging, the evidence is still lacking.” Sethi adds, “Most supplements don’t have a high amount of good-quality ingredients—and are usually mixed with other ingredients that your body doesn’t quite need.” The expert recommends focusing on ingredients that stimulate collagen production (like retinoids and vitamin C) that are more effective.

Hypochlorous Acid

Thanks to Tower 28’s SOS Daily Rescue Facial Spray, hypochlorous acid has picked up momentum recently. “Hypochlorous acid is an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory ingredient that has been doing the rounds on TikTok and Reels. It can help in acne reduction (when the acne is mild) and in preventing chronic inflammatory conditions like eczema and rosacea,” informs Sharad. “However, the hype does overpower its benefits, as you can just wash your face with a cleanser after your workout. Plus, there are better products available for treating acne.” According to Sethi, it’s more of a healing ingredient that can be used on a SOS basis. “It can be effective for wound healing and minor skin irritations but isn’t essential in a typical skincare routine unless addressing specific skin conditions under medical guidance.”

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