With the spotlight on trending skincare ingredients, has glycerin become redundant?

A staple in most cosmetic products, glycerin is often overshadowed by modern actives. However, here’s why the humectant should be on your radar

Given the recent proliferation of beauty products, it comes as no surprise if a consumer is lost in the skincare ingredient jargon, losing touch with what was once considered basic. An example? Glycerin. A humectant by nature, glycerin draws water in the deepest layers of skin and locks it in, preventing transepidermal water loss (or TEWL). Brands like Pears, Vaseline and Medimix created television commercials for the masses featuring their bathing bars with the benefits of glycerin in the spotlight in the 1990s and 2010s, a time when the focus on skincare ingredients was seldom a part of marketing campaigns.

Glycerin has been a prominent part of skincare and make-up formulations for over 50 years now. The ingredient was accidentally discovered by Swedish chemist Karl Wilhelm Scheele while heating a mixture of olive oil and lead oxide in 1779. Today, plant-based alternatives of glycerin have also cropped up, making it possible to add the ingredient into any cosmetic product, including ones with the ‘vegan’ tag.However, not many highlight the ingredient anymore, as the attention is now shifting towards  hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, ceramides and so on. But, it’s interesting to note that most moisturisers and hydrators continue to employ glycerin in the formulation, owing to its list of benefits. We ask two dermatologists to help us decipher why glycerin is indeed good for your skin.

What’s glycerin all about?

“Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a colourless, odourless and sweet-tasting organic compound with the chemical formula C3H8O3. It is a trihydroxy sugar alcohol, meaning it has three hydroxyl (OH) groups in its molecular structure,” explains Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. Glycerin is a common ingredient in skincare products like lotions, creams, and soaps because of its moisturising and hydrating properties, which keep the skin soft and supple. It is found naturally in vegetable oils and animal fats, and can also be made synthetically by fermenting yeast, starch and sugar, apprises Dr Saloni Vora-Gala, cosmetic dermatologist and medical head at Dr Sheth’s Skin and Hair Clinics, Mumbai. 

It is important to note that while the glycerin in your topical skincare products is derived from external sources, it is also a naturally occurring compound in your body. “Glycerol is a key component of triglycerides, a type of fat found in the body. When you consume dietary fats, they are broken down into glycerol and fatty acids during digestion. Glycerol can then be used as an energy source or converted into glucose through a process called gluconeogenesis. Plus, glycerol is a structural component of phospholipids, which are the building blocks of cell membranes,” explains Sharad.

How does it benefit the skin?

Glycerin is a rather foolproof ingredient with a benefit profile that thrives on the fundamentals of skincare. However, don’t let its simplicity trick you—most of the popular active-ingredient solutions comprise some amount of glycerin to balance out the potency and make them skin-friendly.

According to Vora-Gala, deep hydration is the key benefit of using glycerin-containing skincare products. “Well-moisturised skin automatically looks plumper and smoother as the appearance of fine lines is minimised. There is an added radiance on the skin due to a barrier damage repair brought about by both internal and environmental factors.” It is especially beneficial for dry and dehydrated skin, cites Sharad—and yes, dry and dehydrated aren’t synonymous. Besides repairing the skin barrier and preventing transepidermal water loss, glycerin also “helps to strengthen the skin’s outermost layer, the stratum corneum, which can be compromised due to harsh weather or excessive cleansing,” shares the skincare professional.

How good enough is glycerin?

We have to admit that glycerin isn’t a one-and-done ingredient that can come to the rescue in case of major skin concerns. However, it does an excellent job of playing a supporting role. This is why you don’t come across glycerin as widely as hyaluronic acid, ceramides or collagen. “Although glycerin provides excellent hydration, it may not be one of the strongest moisturising agents when used by itself,” begins Vora-Gala. “That’s also a major reason why most glycerin-containing products contain other moisturising ingredients. Moreover, ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalene, and urea have gained popularity in recent times, even mentioned in bold on product labels.” But, does that make glycerin redundant? Not really.

“There is enough scientific research supporting the benefits of glycerin in skincare, which further reinforces its use in the industry. It is relatively inexpensive compared to some other ingredients, making it an attractive option for formulators looking to create effective yet affordable products,” reveals Sharad. A good reason to bet on glycerin is that it is well-tolerated by most skin types under the sun. Sharad, however, asks you to be mindful of the other ingredients in a skincare product. “Some glycerin-infused products may contain other ingredients that could potentially cause reactions in specific individuals. Additionally, if you have any skin concerns, it’s advisable to consult with a dermatologist first.” She furthers, “In very dry or low-humidity environments, glycerin can have the opposite effect and pull moisture from the deeper layers of the skin, causing dryness. This is more likely to happen if glycerin is used in high concentrations without other hydrating ingredients, or in extremely arid climates.”

Both Sharad and Vora-Gala share their favourite glycerin products with us. While Aquaphor’s Healing Ointment, Sebamed’s Moisturising Cream and Bioderma’s Atoderm Crème make it to Sharad’s top list, Vora-Gala recommends Cetaphil’s Moisturizing Cream, Keihl’s’ Ultra Facial Cream and Dove’s Body Love Intense Care Body Lotion.

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