Are you sure you’re using hyaluronic acid the right way?

Possessing a host of easygoing qualities such as hydrating and plumping benefits, hyaluronic acid is a simple ingredient that can become a regular part of your skincare routine

The global hyaluronic acid market is projected to reach $US 20.01 billion by the year 2030—no surprises there. Ubiquitous among all the acids floating around in skincare products, hyaluronic acid’s (HA) non-intimidating and straightforward nature has given it a universally loved and coveted reputation—even for the uninitiated. Ask anybody, including those with the most basic (or non-existent) skincare routines what it is and does, and they’ll unhesitatingly quip about its hydrating and plumping benefits. While other acids may require a bit of coaxing from experts and skincare enthusiasts to become part of your skincare routine, hyaluronic acid has a number of easygoing qualities that make it a harmless pick. It doesn’t discriminate (it works on almost every skin type without causing trouble), has great biocompatibility (so it’s on good terms with most other ingredients) and unlike most of its counterparts, HA generally doesn’t cause purging. On the surface, it’s a simple ingredient made for everyone, everywhere. But penetrate deeper, and you’ll find that if not used correctly, this goopy molecule could leave your skin feeling very, very dry.

It’s the most loved…

Hyaluronic acid is a gooey substance that is naturally produced in the body and found in parts like the eyes, joints and the connective tissue. “Its natural function within the dermis is to regulate water balance, osmotic pressure and ion flow and it essentially functions as a sieve,” explains Prachi Bhandari, co-founder of skincare brand Aminu, that uses the ingredient in conjunction with other actives in their serums for targeted skin issues. Its skin-related functions include maintaining the skin's elasticity, reducing its inflammatory response and regenerating the damaged skin barrier, she adds. It is also a humectant, which means that it pulls water from the environment to the upper layers of the skin, like a sponge. This is because, explains DECIEM’s chief scientific officer, Prudvi Kaka, when topically applied, its polar nature draws water to the skin’s surface from the surrounding environment, allowing the skin to feel hydrated and smooth. DECIEM is the parent company of skincare brand The Ordinary, whose Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 that launched in 2016 incorporates three forms of the acid at varying molecular weights, and which remains a cult favourite till today.

Due to HA’s ability to let other chemical compounds latch on to it, it can hold and transfer a lot of water content—a quarter-teaspoon of HA can hold about one and a half gallons of water. So in skincare products, HA is great to help keep the skin’s moisture levels up and improve the appearance of fine lines, but only as a catalyst for other ingredients.

But also the most misunderstood…

If you’ve been under the impression that HA is all you need to keep your skin’s hydration levels balanced, you may realise that in doing so, gradually, it may have done the opposite. This is because HA acts as a humectant, and in order to reap its moisture-locking benefits, it needs to immediately be layered with moisturising products like serums, creams and peels. This is also why you’ll often find brands using it in conjunction with other active ingredients. “The concentration of HA in the product, its accompanying ingredients and the follow-up process, that is, using a moisturiser to lock in the serum is a must to complete the skincare regime for plump skin,” says Harini Sivakumar, founder and CEO of Earth Rhythm.

What to do (and what not to do!)

Here’s some more good news: HA is for everyone—dry, oily, moody—all skin types could do with a bit of it. Dermatologist and founder of ISAAC Luxe Clinics, Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, explains how it adapts itself. While it improves moisture retention in dry skin, it retains moisture while feeling light due to its low molecular weight, thus perfect for oily skin. Meanwhile hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is calming, anti-inflammatory and protective—just what sensitive skin needs.

When it comes to picking the right product, if you’re mindful of the formulation and ingredient synergy, you’ve pretty much hit the brief for smooth, soft skin. Sivakumar breaks down the synergy: when paired with niacinamide, expect better skin barrier support and texture; with mandelic acid, accelerated cell turnover and improved skin elasticity; with lactic acid, gentle exfoliation and balanced sebum production; and with vitamin C, anti-ageing properties and brighter skin.

“Although classified as an acid, HA is a molecule with many bound sugars that help bind water to collagen, and has zero exfoliating properties,” says Dr Mittal Gupta. The biggest myth, says Kaka, is the idea that HA must be applied to damp skin. “While applying HA on damp skin may help with the product’s spreadability, it does not impact the hydrating ability of hyaluronic acid, as the majority of HA serums on the market already contain a high concentration of water,” she says.

A final key factor to understand if you’re using hyaluronic acid correctly is to remember that too much of anything is seldom too good. HA absorbs moisture from its surroundings; it drinks it up from wherever it can find it. So if you don’t quench its thirst with a moisturising agent right after, it’ll suck up the moisture from within your skin, thereby counterfeiting what you used it for—to add moisture. “A high percentage of HA (more than two per cent) will draw high amounts of water from deeper layers of the skin itself, making it dehydrated and itchy,” concludes Dr Mittal Gupta. But it’s not that complicated—tap the goopy, slippery substance into freshly cleansed skin, follow it up with your moisturiser or serum, do this daily, and you’ll see that all the products you’ve been using regularly with it may just be working a little bit better than before.

Also Read: 8 foundations to make dry skin glowy, bright and even

Also Read: 8 cleansers that mattify and balance oily, acne-prone skin

Also Read: Why good-enough skin is truly good enough