How to tell if your skin barrier is damaged

Many skincare products could help fortify your skin barrier, but how do you recognise that it needs attention? The experts weigh in

The glossary of skincare terminologies for beauty amateurs has expanded significantly in the past few years. From using only a handful of products like a face wash and cold cream and being cognisant about skin phenomena—think dryness, oiliness and pimples, to deciphering concepts like skin barrier and microbiome, a slew of acids and in-office treatments, skin awareness is probably at an all-time high. From prebiotic serums to enrich the skin microbiome to barrier-strengthening creams and masks, consumers are better equipped with the know-how of these products and their usage. 

The hype around skin barrier health is real. While there was very little knowledge about it a few years ago, today, besides 4.2 billion views on TikTok, the hashtag #skinbarrier also features over 2,82,000 posts on Instagram, making the augmented focus on everything skin barrier abundantly clear. Creams like the Cicaplast Baume B5 from French pharmacy brand La Roche-Posay and In My Defense (IMD) from homegrown brand d’you are flying off the shelves, both physically and virtually—with special attention on their barrier-fortifying property. While more and more people are discussing ways to fix a damaged skin barrier and the products that can help, it is imperative to know whether you have a damaged barrier. We ask the skincare experts to break it down for us.

The 411 on skin barrier protection

“Skin barrier refers to the skin’s protective layer known as ‘stratum corneum,’” says New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi. “It [skin barrier] is made up of skin cells or corneocytes, which are like bricks, and a lipid matrix consisting of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, which are like the mortar holding the skin cells together,” adds Dr Varshini Reddy, celebrity dermatologist and founder, The Glow Clinic. Stratum corneum, or the skin barrier is one of the five layers in the skin’s uppermost surface, epidermis, and epidermis, hypodermis and dermis make up the three primary layers of the skin, informs Dr Manasi Shirolkar, consultant dermatologist and founder of drmanasiskin.com. As the name suggests, the main function of the skin barrier is to protect everything underneath it from risk-imposing elements externally.

Considering it provides a defence mechanism for the skin, the skin barrier must always be healthy and nourished. “Besides preventing microorganisms, environmental pollutants, irritants and UV rays from getting into the skin, the skin barrier also influences the transepidermal water loss (or TEWL) of the skin, which directly affects the hydration level and water retaining capacity of the skin,” says Reddy, explaining the need for a healthy skin barrier. “Certain mutations and genetic abnormalities linked to the skin barrier dysfunction can also lead to eczemas, atopic and dry, irritated skin,” she adds.

When is the skin barrier in jeopardy?

Combining common skincare malpractices with environmental aggressors gives you the perfect recipe for a damaged skin barrier. It’s hard to pinpoint or find out what exactly causes a skin barrier dysfunction, believes Reddy, but commonly seen reasons include “UV damage or too much sun exposure, lack of proper sun protection, stress, smoking, pollution, weather changes, lack of sleep, a diet lacking in good fat or lipids,” says the skin expert. Besides lifestyle and environmental factors, bad skincare habits can weaken the barrier.

The two most common faux pas? Over-cleansing and over-exfoliating, says Reddy. “Cleansing the skin too aggressively or too frequently with face washes that are overly harsh or drying or have a pH that is too alkaline can disrupt the barrier as well as overuse of potentially irritating active ingredients such as retinoids and exfoliating acids and harsh physical exfoliators like grainy scrubs, can harm the skin’s barrier,” explains Sethi. “Sometimes, even underlying skin conditions such as adult acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis, and rosacea can lead to a damaged skin barrier,” adds Shirolkar.

Signs of a damaged skin barrier

According to Yashwant Singh, a skincare content creator who focuses majorly on skin barrier fixes, unusual breakouts, especially in places where you normally don’t get them, any sign of discomfort in the skin, dryness and irritation and skin redness and burning sensation while using any product are few signs of a damaged skin barrier. Sethi highlights the relationship between rosacea, eczema, and a weak skincare barrier as “a genetic defect in the skin barrier partly causes these conditions.” Corroborating what Singh said, all three dermatologists also agree that redness, dryness, flakiness, peeling skin, itching and stinging upon application of certain ingredients are common symptoms of an unhealthy skin barrier. If you visit Reddy’s clinic regarding this concern, they specifically assess the barrier, its health and to what extent lipids are present in the skin through a skin analysis system.

Expert-approved tips 

Taking proactive corrective measures is paramount if you have a compromised skin barrier. “Stop using actives for a week or two, including AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, retinol and any other harsh actives,” says Reddy, listing the immediate steps. According to Sethi, it’s key to steer clear of any products that list any ‘fragrance’ as an ingredient, as those chemicals can enter (the deeper layers) through the damaged barrier and could cause an irritation or allergy. “Avoid using any ingredients that could strip your skin of its natural oils and moisture because it is the natural oils and dead keratin cells that help rebuild the skin.” A common preventive and corrective measure is avoiding sun exposure and applying sunscreen. 

Reddy says lipids, ceramides and healthy fatty acids via skincare and a diet comprising omega 3 and 6 fatty acids from nuts, avocados and fish will help strengthen the skin barrier. “You could also start using calming ingredients like Centella Asiatica and ceramides in a mist or essence format to rehydrate and then apply your serum and moisturiser.” 

Sethi believes that the skin can regenerate and repair itself and suggests a skincare regimen that meets all your skincare goals, including a fortified skin barrier. She also vouches for the benefits of humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, polyglutamic acid, sodium lactate and urea (in low percentages) which bind water in combination with emollients and occlusive agents to retain water in the skin like silicone, oils or even petrolatum jelly. 

Singh shares how he recouped his skin barrier health. “Prioritise skin hydration more and be as gentle with your skin as possible. I believe in not messing up my skin barrier in the first place. So I minimise exfoliation and too much rubbing and tugging my skin and avoid overwhelming my skin with strong actives like AHAs and retinoids all at once,” says the creator. “You could consider a barrier-boosting facial which helps restore your lipids and calm inflammation. I also recommend incorporating red LED light therapy in the clinic or at home to calm and soothe the skin, reduce redness, and heal the skin,” concludes Reddy. 

Here’s a list of the best facial creams to restore your skin barrier health.

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