After skin barrier, skin ‘microbiome’ could be the next trend

While plenty has been said about the skin barrier in the past year, this year is likely to belong to the microbiome 

When pharmacist Dr Marie Drago launched Gallinée in 2014 with the aim to create a full-fledged skincare curation for the skin microbiome in particular, not many resonated with the fundamentals of the brand back then. Cut to today, a microbiome-first approach is making its way to not just social media but also to a plethora of skincare products.

“Trillions of microorganisms such as bacteria, viruses and fungi naturally reside all over our body, but mainly inside our gut and skin, which is called the microbiome,” explains Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. For many years, microbiome, as a concept, has been limited to gut health; however, today, the cosmetic industry is swiftly picking up on the trend. We speak to industry experts who help us decipher what the skin microbiome is and how you should build a skincare regimen that caters to its well-being.

What exactly is the skin microbiome?

In simple terms, the microbiome is an ecosystem of microorganisms that thrive in the human body. Dr Niketa Sonavane, founder, Ambrosia Aesthetics, says, “Our skin microbiome comprises trillions of bacteria, fungi, viruses, and even small arthropods, which is similar to those found in our gut. It is mainly found in the upper layers of the epidermis and the upper parts of hair follicles. These organisms interact with one another and with our immune system, and are in charge of our skin’s health.” One can then conclude that a balanced skin microbiome equals healthy skin.

Sharad believes that the microbiome can be helpful or, when imbalanced, potentially harmful too. “Microbiome plays an important role in regulating our immune system. Just like the bacteria in our gut assists with digestion, those which live on the skin help break down lipids and produce natural moisturising factors. The microbiome also prevents the entry of pathogens into the body,” she says. Citing the perils of an imbalanced microbiome, Sharad calls out skin concerns like acne, folliculitis, eczema and urticaria.

Probiotics and microbiome – what’s the association? 

Certain daily inimical practices can disrupt your skin’s microbiome. “Some factors that break your microbiome’s health include consuming unhealthy food and alcohol, smoking cigarettes, unnecessary use of antibiotics, stress, inadequate sleep, artificial sweeteners and a diet high in sugar,” mentions Sharad. So how do you reverse microbiome damage? It’s simple—feed your microbiome with ingredients that replenish its health, such as probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics, all ingredients that your microbiome thrives on. “Prebiotics, in a nutshell, provide food for our skin microbes, allowing them to thrive. Probiotics are live microbes that attach to the skin and reduce the population of unwanted microbes, whereas postbiotics are substances produced by microbiomes (such as peptides and fatty acids) that benefit the skin’s health,” explains Sonavane.

Talking about how they benefit the skin, Sharad says, “Prebiotics and probiotics inhibit inflammation and stimulate the production of antimicrobial peptides which can kill bacteria, fungi and viruses. The microbiome protects the skin from allergens and oxidative damage and supports the skin barrier function.”

Lucky for us, probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics are easily accessible in a slew of skincare products today—from serums to creams to toners. “Lactobacillus, Saccharomyces boulardii, Bifidobacterium and Streptococcus thermophilus are some types of probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics that suit all skin types, including sensitive skin,” shares Sharad, who advises to look out for these ingredients while purchasing skincare products. “Most prebiotic, postbiotic, and probiotic products are appropriate for all skin types, but they may be especially beneficial for inflamed, eczema-prone or troubled skin that requires barrier repair,” adds Sonavane.

Additionally, Sonavane suggests indulging in a fibre-rich diet that promotes a healthy skin microbiome. “Short-chain fatty acids, which are formed by the breakdown of fibre, result in less acne-causing bacteria on the face while also keeping protective bacteria intact,” she explains. “Several studies have shown that the gut microbiome can collaborate with the skin microbiome to repair disrupted skin barrier function and improve skin health.” In concurrence, Sharad advises consuming yoghurt, kimchi and apple cider vinegar—all fermented foods that allow you to ingest probiotics.

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