How ‘barrier repair’ became the buzzword of the skincare industry

After years of peddling high-powered actives, here’s why brands want you to boost your barrier instead

As much as beauty enthusiasts like to sermonise the virtues of a minimalist routine—“it’s all about the basics, really”—there’s no denying that there’s a certain level of spectacle baked within the world of skincare. From sheet masks that bubble and foam upon contact with your skin to exfoliating socks that shed your skin to reveal baby-like softness underneath, you have plenty to pick from. In this world of pomp and heraldry with every brand chasing the next big Instagram photo-op, products that don’t offer a standout selfie can unsurprisingly fall to the wayside. However, bucking the trend is a new entrant to the arena: barrier repair creams, the research-backed skincare staple that dermats want you to get started with stat. So what exactly is a barrier repair cream and why is every brand launching one? We took a closer look and here’s what we learned.

Why should your skincare goals be focused on barrier repair?

In order to understand the value that a barrier repair cream can lend to your skincare routine, it is essential to begin with the basics–a thorough understanding of the skin’s structure. Mumbai-based Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Aesthetic Clinic, explains, “The skin barrier is composed of the outermost layer of epidermis, or the stratum corneum, and other interconnected cells and structures such as ceramides, lipids, fatty acids and the natural moisturising factor. The function of this unit is to retain moisture within, prevent external harmful agents such as UV rays, bacteria, pollutants, allergens and viruses from entering the skin and protecting the skin from free-radical damage. The science behind barrier repair products is to replicate the function of these natural skin barrier structures.”

The sudden increase in the number of barrier repair creams along skincare aisles is inadvertently tied to the rising consumer demand for active ingredients. Agarwal agrees, and adds, “The increase in influencers and social media tutorials propagating the adoption of 10-step routines and multiple actives has been wreaking havoc on our barrier. You have Google doctors and people with little credible knowledge about how the skin functions uploading videos about using multiple actives without realising its implications on the skin barrier. Factor in the sudden mushrooming of brands rolling out active ingredients in high concentrations to capitalise on the trend, and it comes as little surprise that the skin barrier has been greatly compromised.”

The onset of pandemic-induced masking measures has done little to help matters, chimes in renowned dermatologist Dr Jamuna Pai. “The prolonged use of masks leads to constant friction on the skin, with many reporting irritation as well as red, dry and itchy skin. We have been witnessing an uptick in skin conditions like contact dermatitis since the pandemic due to the weakening of the skin barrier,” she observes.

So how can you know if your skin barrier is in urgent need of some TLC? Agarwal recommends staying vigilant about irritation and itchiness. “An easy giveaway is that the skin not only feels tightly stretched and dehydrated but also oily at the same time. If the products that you normally use start to make your skin irritated and sensitive, it might be a good time to inspect your barrier health,” she advises.

The it-product of the skincare industry?

If the problem has been caused by the ubiquity of active ingredients along skincare aisles, the answer must come from the industry as well. It is a challenge that a fresh crop of skincare brands are only too glad to sink their teeth into, with brands such as BYOMA focusing their attention solely on repairing and restoring the skin’s barrier and structure. “During the initial COVID lockdown, people were playing chemist in their bathrooms, experimenting with super-strength actives with less than desirable results. I chose to immerse myself in skin science, and through extensive research, realised better skin stems from a boosted skin barrier,” reads a blurb on the website by founder Marc Elrick. This sentiment is echoed on home shores by brands like The Formula RX rolling out barrier-focused products to dial back the aftermath of active ingredients including retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and exfoliators.

So should you be buying into the hype around barrier repair products? To a certain extent, affirms Agarwal. “Ensure that you aren’t using more than three products to repair and build the skin barrier—the primary goal is always to cleanse, repair and protect. When shopping for skincare products, keep an eye out for ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, lipids, centella asiatica and niacinamide,” she says. As a rule of thumb, Pai recommends maintaining the pH of the skin barrier around 5.7. “Skincare products with a higher or lower pH level are bound to compromise the skin barrier. When focusing on repair, it is imperative to reinstate the pH of the acid mantle as well as maintain normal moisture levels of the outermost layer of skin,” she concludes.

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