Everything you need to know about ectoin, niacinamide’s newest competition

While ectoin passes off as a do-it-all hero, dermatologists reflect on the ingredient’s benefits for the skin

The introduction of a new trending skincare ingredient doesn’t surprise us anymore, albeit, it does pique our interest every so often. With active ingredients becoming crucial to skincare regimens, newer innovations come up with novel solutions for every skin concern under the sun. Ectoin is an ingredient that has reclaimed scrutiny in recent times. While some deem it a solid contender against niacinamide, others have pitted it against hyaluronic acid and peptides. We ask dermatologists to help us with a primer on all things ectoin.

What is ectoin?

“Ectoin is an amino acid and a protein molecule that is an osmolyte (low-molecular-weight compound) in nature,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “It maintains the balance of water and hydration,” she adds. If ‘amino acids’ ring a bell, you’ve heard it before through its association with peptides. “It’s an amino acid found within and derived from several types of bacteria,” says New-Delhi-based dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi. “It is a small molecule that readily binds with water molecules to create complexes that surround cells, enzymes and proteins by forming a protective shell around it,” elaborates the skin expert.  

Found today in a sizeable section of products from several brands—think Peach & Lily’s Retinol For All Renewing Serum, Bioderma’s Photoderm Crème Claire SPF 50+ Sunscreen, HourGlass’ Cosmetics Equilibrium Restoring Essence and more—ectoin has actually been around since 1985. “Ectoin works as your skin’s bodyguard. The best way to define it is as the ‘new niacinamide’. It does have a lot of benefits,” shares Sethi. It is an extremolyte obtained from a bacteria called Halobacteria and was discovered from the microorganisms in the salt lakes of Egypt, informs Agarwal. Extremolytes are small organic molecules which protect cells under extreme, virtually inhabitable conditions, as mentioned in the journal, Current Opinion in Biotechnology (2020).

The benefits of ectoin

Ectoin is full of benefits for the skin, for it comprises reparative, protective and moisturising properties. “It is mainly anti-inflammatory and couples with water easily, so it helps with skin-barrier repair, reducing water loss from the skin and improving its hydration. It also, thereby, works well in ageing concerns such as reversing rough, dry skin and boosting elasticity,” explains Agarwal. “Ectoin behaves like a multi-tasker and natural stress protector. It maintains the cellular balance at a molecular level and repairs damaged skin caused due to oxidative stress. It also helps to protect the skin from UVA/UVB lights and acts as a hydrating agent. When mixed with any cosmetic product, ectoin stabilises the skin, thus keeping it protected from any harmful aggressors,” explains Dr Soma Sarkar, consulting dermatologist with French pharmacy brand Bioderma, which recently launched a sunscreen infused with ectoin. 

“Ectoin protects your skin at the cellular level against all sorts of extremities your skin might face on a daily basis,” says Sethi. “This could be saline water in your shower, dry temperature (or any extreme temperature for that matter) and against skin damage from harmful UVA/UVB light. It also protects the cell membrane from chemical and physical damage and helps protect and reduce cell inflammation. While it does quite a lot, it mainly protects [your skin] from blue light and pollution, two factors that we can almost bet are something your skin is exposed to in today’s times.”

Ectoin works hard on keeping both the microbiome and barrier of your skin at their healthiest state. Sethi claims that with regular use, you can expect better skin elasticity, hydration to the deepest level and skin barrier improvement. As a result, it also targets fine lines and wrinkles—the common early signs of ageing. “The hydro complex formed by ectoin helps to maintain the skin microbiome and barrier by lying on the skin surface to protect against external environmental harmful agents. It also prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and preserves the hydration balance to strengthen the skin barrier,” adds Agarwal. 

Ectoin versus other fellow actives 

Ingredients like panthenol, peptides and hyaluronic acid have several similarities with ectoin, as far as their advantages for the skin go. However, ectoin is quite a standout. “Ectoin is different from these ingredients as it works on the cellular level to protect the skin in addition to improving hydration whereas the other ingredients work on the surface of the skin (epidermis),” states Agarwal. She reminds us that hyaluronic acid and panthenol act like humectants to draw water from the environment into the skin, while niacinamide works as an anti-inflammatory agent to calm and brighten it. “The effects of these ingredients may not be as long-lasting as they can be easily degraded by the skin enzymes. Ectoin, on the other hand, forms a protective shield in the skin and is not easily destroyed by skin enzymes.”

(How to) Make it yours

Every skin type can use ectoin, for it’s a healing and repairing ingredient. Plus, it can befriend potent active ingredients in a flash. “It is best incorporated in lotion, creams and serum formulations as it will adhere well to the skin in water-based formulations. However, it can be used in other formulations as well,” advises Agarwal, who believes it is best paired with AHAs, BHAs and retinol as it negates their irritation potential without impacting the results. “It is also used in the scalp (hair masks and leave-on products) and body products,” adds Agarwal. According to Sethi, ectoin also works well in combination with moisturising ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and ceramides. 

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