Should you toss out skincare that hasn’t yet expired?

Using a compromised beauty product can often have messy repercussions on your skin. We ask experts to highlight red flags to be wary of, even if the product hasn’t yet reached its expiry date 

What do you do when the face moisturiser you’re accustomed to using right after a shower suddenly isn’t the same anymore? From a change in colour to separating oil or an iffy smell, something strange about that moisturiser makes it seem unusable. But, when you flip the jar, it’s nowhere close to its expiry date.

Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal explains, “Skincare products may deteriorate before their expiry date due to exposure to heat, humidity, air, or light. These conditions can negatively impact active ingredients or promote microbial growth. Additionally, improper hygiene practices, such as inserting fingers directly into jars, can introduce bacteria and accelerate spoilage.”

In India, particularly, extreme weather conditions can have an adverse effect on altering the formulation of beauty products. “Cosmetic product stability testing is done at 40°C for accelerated stability testing, and at 50°C for stress testing. Ideally, it should last six months, which is supposed to approximate products at room temperature for two years,” says New Delhi-based dermatologist and aesthetician Dr Kiran Sethi. “In India, it’s very easy for your bathroom, bedroom, or vanity to rise as high as 45°C. And, if you’re not refrigerating your products or placing them at room temperature or leaving the AC on all day and night, the stability of that product will reduce tremendously.”

Getting rid of a half-full tube of cleanser or a barely-used bottle of serum can feel like a colossal waste of money. However, applying a compromised beauty product can have detrimental repercussions—ranging from pigmentation and reactions to breakouts, clogged pores, acne, and even a damaged skin barrier. We ask experts to highlight red flags that we should be wary of in beauty products, even if they haven’t yet expired.

1. If the product has reached its shelf life 

The shelf life of a cosmetic product isn’t the same as its date of expiry. Joseph Basham, science communications and partnerships engagement manager at The Ordinary, explains, “Skincare products have to undergo rigorous testing before launching on the market to ensure their stability. This involves subjecting the formula to high temperatures as well as freeze-thaw testing. The microbial content, the physical properties (colour, odour, texture), and the stability of the key active ingredients are all examined. Based on these factors, brands arrive at the period after opening (or PAO), which tells you how long the shelf life of the product is once it has been opened.” You can tell this by locating a symbol of a little jar with an open lid on the product—and the number inside this symbol will reveal the number of months of its shelf life. 

Oftentimes, we focus on the date of expiry, and ignore the PAO. However, the formulation could start degrading (after its shelf life has passed) since the product has been exposed to the elements, even if you’ve used it only a couple of times. 

2. A change in the smell 

A cosmetic product’s fragrance is very telling of its quality. When a beauty formulation turns rancid, even the most fragrance-free product emits a funky odour. “If a product emits a sour, rancid, or unusual smell compared to when it was first purchased, it is likely compromised,” says Agarwal. Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad adds, “A shift from fragrance-free to a noticeable scent could indicate oxidation or microbial growth.” Saikat Chakraborty, national artist at M.A.C Cosmetics India, shares that the same rule applies to make-up products. “A sour, chemical- or crayon-like smell usually means the ingredients are breaking down. This is particularly noticeable in the case of bullet lipsticks and liquid foundations.” 

3. A change in consistency and texture

From lipstick developing mould to sunscreen curdling up, even the slightest alteration in the look and feel of a cosmetic product could be a sign of a formulation gone bad. “If the product feels grainy, separates into layers, or becomes unusually runny or thick, it’s no longer stable,” shares Dr Manu Walia, founder of Mumbai-based Dermahouse. “When a cosmetic product changes in texture or develops lumps before expiry, it usually means that some ingredient has come out of the emulsion or a specific ingredient has lost its efficacy,” furthers Sethi. “For example, if you observe a change in the texture, then either a thickening agent is no longer effective or has disintegrated. If it becomes lumpy, it could mean that an active has separated from the emulsion.”

With cream-based make-up, this concern becomes significant—products can turn waxy, goopy or sticky. “If you notice any changes in texture, like the formula becoming clumpy, watery, or unusually thick, it’s a clear sign something’s off. Separation can be normal in some products, but if shaking or stirring [the container] doesn’t bring it back to its original consistency, that’s a red flag,” informs Chakraborty. “Similarly, make-up sponges must be replaced once their texture starts to break down. If they begin to tear easily, feel too soft or slimy after cleaning or don’t bounce back like they used to, it’s time to throw them away.” While make-up tools don’t come with expiration dates, they’re not meant to last forever either. “If your brushes are shedding excessively or losing their shape, even with gentle washing, it’s a sign they’ve run their course,” adds Chakraborty. 

4. A change in colour 

Though not too common, changes in colour can occur in certain skincare formulations, especially those containing antioxidants or ingredients that are sensitive to sun exposure. “Colour changes are usually due to oxidation or breakdown of ingredients like vitamin C, retinol, or botanical extracts. This reduces efficacy—and, in some cases, the altered formulation can irritate the skin. It's best to stop using the product once its colour shifts noticeably,” says Agarwal. 

Basham elaborates: “If the products are improperly stored and subjected to the environment, along with repeated contamination, it can affect the preservative system over time, not only changing the texture and odour, but also potentially affecting colour. Antioxidants like direct vitamin C (ascorbic acid) are particularly notorious for their stability issues. While formulators spend a lot of time working to ensure product stability, sometimes formulas containing these ingredients can change colour slightly over time.” He furthers, “As vitamin C degrades, it changes colour, becoming an orange to a brown. A slight colour change can be expected over time as this will be factored into the product stability; however, stronger colour changes may be a sign of reduced efficacy.”

Chakraborty notes, “If you notice a white cast on your lip pencils or powder blushes, it’s time to toss them.”

5. If you misplace or damage the original packaging 

So much of a cosmetic product’s stability depends on its packaging. If you misplace a lid, damage the dispenser, or transfer a solution into another jar, you’re likely to contaminate it in the process. “The packaging of your make-up isn’t just about its appearance, it’s essential for keeping your products hygienic and stable. If the lid is lost or doesn’t close tightly, air, dust, and bacteria can easily get in, compromising the product,” says Chakraborty. 

Hygiene is non-negotiable. “Contamination can also happen when you double-dip with dirty brushes or fingers—another reason to be mindful of how you apply the product. If the packaging can’t properly protect the product, it can’t protect your skin either,” adds Chakraborty. While cosmetic products are designed to have preservative systems that help protect against repeated exposure to contaminants (such as dipping fingers into the product over its shelf life), Basham recommends ensuring you close them properly after use and that you use clean hands to apply your skincare.

6. If it doesn’t show results or causes reactions

If a cosmetic product is no longer effective, or begins to trigger concerns, it isn’t doing its job well. Moreover, if introducing your skin to any new cosmetic product has spawned breakouts, irritation, redness, acne or other similar reactions, it is the biggest telltale that the product needs to be disposed of immediately. “Degraded emulsions lose their uniform distribution of active ingredients, can become breeding grounds for microbes, and may irritate or sensitise the skin,” explains Sharad. And, even if a product that worked well for a while starts irritating your skin, it’s a sign to stop using it, says Chakraborty. “Even if the packaging says it’s still good [to use], your skin will always tell you when something’s not right.”

Expert-approved tips to promote the longevity of your cosmetic products 

“Store your skincare products in a cool, dry place; tightly close the lids after every use; look for opaque/airtight containers to limit air and light exposure; avoid dipping your fingers into the jar–use spatulas instead; and finally, do not freeze your products, as it can break emulsions and destabilise formulations,” advises Sharad. “It’s a fact that products are not tested for long-term stability in the [extreme] weather conditions of India. So assume your product has half the expiry or 2/3rd the expiry of normal products, if you’re not storing them in temperature-controlled conditions,” adds Sethi. 

“Many of us store our products in the bathroom; however, it is a space that is often subjected to variations in temperature and humidity. Consider popping them in a cabinet if you have one, or storing them in another spot. In the case of ingredients like vitamin C and, sometimes, retinoids, while not essential, it can be helpful to store them in the fridge, especially in warmer climates. This can protect the active ingredients from elevated temperatures that can sometimes affect stability,” recommends Basham. He also finds it useful to write the date of opening the product using a permanent marker, enabling him to keep track of how long he has been using the product.

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