Should you worry about the fragrance in your skincare products?

The presence of fragrance in beauty products has been vilified extensively owing to the potential hazards it poses. We find out more 

What’s common between Sol De Janeiro’s cult-favourite Bum Bum Cream, Kama Ayurveda’s Pure Rosewater, Aesop’s classic body washes, Rhode’s viral Peptide Lip Treatment, and Moroccanoil’s much-loved Hair Treatment Oil? A signature fragrance. There are a number of products that secure a special place in a beauty enthusiast’s vanity largely because of their unique fragrance. And this isn’t a recent phenomenon. From Yardley and Dove’s soap bars, conceived in 1770 and 1957 respectively, to indulgent crèmes from Pond’s and Nivea, launched in 1846 and 1911 respectively, most of the epoch-making products have been recognised for their archetypal fragrance, among other factors. 

However, recently, fragrance has been vilified extensively in the beauty space, owing to the potential hazards it poses. Therefore, the category of fragrance-free skincare products—once limited to just a few science-first cosmeceutical brands—has become mainstream today. From Dr Sheth’s to Biossance and Versed, a legion of skincare brands have adopted a fragrance-free approach. But, is fragrance worth the ignominy? We ask industry experts to weigh their opinions. 

Why is fragrance present in skincare?

Whether fresh florals, decadent vanilla and chocolate or invigorating essential oils, when you open up a jar of a cosmetic item, it is certain to evoke a feeling of relaxation or indulgence. “Fragrances (as part of skincare and other wellness products like candles and perfumes) can elicit strong emotional responses in the form of improved mood and stress relief,” says Hansika Kapoor, psychologist for Monk Prayogshala. “Fragrances have the ability to evoke memories and recall experiences—think about a distinct scent from your  growing up years and you’ll remember much more of that time in your life as well. There is a strong link between our sense of smell, emotions, and memory, and fragrant products often capitalise on this link,” she explains.

“Some form of fragrance has been added for as long as one can remember,” shares New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi. She informs that a smell within skincare is a result of different ingredients and formulations, and that doesn’t necessarily translate into pleasant-smelling products. Thus, adding fragrances could aid with masking any unpleasant scents. “Fragrances also create a sensory experience that can make skincare routines feel more luxurious, enjoyable and calming. Also, a lot of scents help establish brand identity,” shares the skin professional. 

In a conversation with Shamika Haldipurkar, founder of d’you, she mentions the safe use of mild fragrances as an aspect of cosmetic elegance, which certainly translates into the experiences with the brand’s products. Similarly, Surbhee Grover, founder of Love Indus, shares, “At Love Indus, we believe that fragrance is a feeling—one that takes you places, marks a moment and lingers on your skin. Thus, devoid of artificial fragrances, the faint scent in each product is crafted with over 18 essential oils along with flower extracts that pay homage to the flower markets and wedding mandaps, deities and divinity, and tales and traditions of the East.”  

The perils of fragrances in cosmetics

There’s certainly something elusive about the presence of an uplifting fragrance in a cosmetic product, that makes you want to go back to using it time and again. But, despite fragrance’s persistent use in the making of cosmetics—both skincare and make-up—it has been flung under negative light, due to the repercussions it apparently spawns. Objectively, there is no substantial benefit that a product gets enriched with, when a fragrance is added to it.

“Fragrances have earned a bad reputation because they are considered as ‘additives’ that don’t add to the quality of the ingredients, and hence, are taking away from products being clean. Also, it doesn’t help that you don’t always know what these fragrances are made of since labels just generalise them without giving specifics,” begins Sethi, “which is why, in some cases, they (especially synthetic fragrances) have caused skin sensitivity and potential health concerns. In Europe, it is mandatory that you mention certain fragrance ingredients that are sensitising, so the regulations are changing thankfully.”

So is fragranced skincare always problematic?

If you think about it, traditionally, a lot of kitchen ingredients were implemented in beauty rituals (and products, thereafter), and all of those featured some sort of a scent. Similarly, modern Ayurvedic beauty products boast pure and potent fragrances from the natural ingredients used in the blend. In that case, do those natural fragrances also carry the risk of irritation? “Not all chemical fragrances are harmful and not all Ayurvedic fragrances are safe,” clarifies Sethi. “It could depend from person to person, their skin type and what they might be allergic to. Of course, Ayurvedic points towards more natural ingredients, so it definitely does feel safer. However, it is just a feeling—lemongrass, lemon and bergamot can cause sun sensitisation and pigmentary disorders, even though they are natural. So we need to discern between safe and not safe, not natural and synthetic.”

Synthetic fragrances are believed to be much more menacing than natural ingredients that carry a fragrance, for the former may fall under the category of “toxic” chemicals. “Synthetic fragrances have a somewhat greater tendency to irritate the skin; instead, plant extracts or essential oils, that impart some fragrance to the skincare, are also beneficial for skin in many ways. For instance, one of the primary extracts in our Amrutini collection is Tuberose, which is also known to help with improving skin elasticity,” shares Grover.

Having said that, “while in a small percentage of the population, fragrance can cause unwanted problems, it is not applicable to the larger population,” reveals Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “Unfortunately due to the unregulated information on social media, there is a lot of unwarranted fear about fragrances in products. The truth is that products are made up of complexes of ingredients, and just attributing fragrance to be the only villain is unfair,” she adds. According to Agarwal, fragrance-free cosmetics are more of a buzz, popularised by the hype around them, rather than being truly relevant or required on a large scale. 

She revisits the natural-versus-synthetic fragrance debate and highlights that a product can be dubbed “fragrance-free” in the absence of a synthetic fragrance infusion. However, a natural fragrance coming from the ingredients used could still be present in the product, with a minor yet prevailing risk of irritation. “Synthetic fragrances are manufactured in the laboratory and are usually made from natural ingredients or derived from materials like wood pulp or petroleum. The synthetic ones can be safe too, as t hazardous elements are obviously distilled out. Synthetic fragrances by reputable brands usually adhere to certain guidelines and approvals,” cites Agarwal. “Unfortunately, there is a lack of clear-cut guidelines that make brands reveal the exact component of fragrances used in the products.”

Making the right investment

While some fragrances can be quite overpowering, in most cases, they play the role of an experience enhancer. What you spend your money on—fragrance or fragrance-free skincare—depends on a combination of factors including your skin’s sensitivity to chemicals, what you prioritise while picking a product, the benefit-to-risk ratio, and the type of product itself. “Multiple factors influence the concerns caused by fragrances such as the amount of time the product is left on, the layering of products, the skin barrier condition and the type and amount of fragrance. It is seen that wash-off products like cleansers are less likely to cause skin issues as compared to leave-on products such as creams,” says Agarwal. “Additionally, products that have a variety of fragrances are more likely to cause adverse effects as compared to single-fragrance ones.”

Sethi suggests taking extra precautions if you have sensitive skin or are prone to allergies. “Reading ingredients is your best bet;  however, what if the product just says ‘fragrance added’? In that case, consider patch-testing a new product. A product can be safe, even though it contains synthetic fragrance; look out for terms like ‘hypoallergenic’ or ‘skin-safe’ as these could be more diluted or sensitive skin-friendly.” Along the same lines, Agarwal says, “The International Fragrance Association is a global organisation that has rules for perfumers to calculate product and situational cumulative exposures to the fragrance. They have prepared a list of more than 4,000 fragrances that are safe to use. It is relatively safer to use fragrances that are IFRA-certified as the chances of reactions are drastically reduced.” Grover believes that if a product is too strong for the nose, it is too strong for the skin too. 

To opt for fragranced skincare or not is very much a matter of personal choice, opines Agarwal. “Fragrances can be enjoyed in skincare provided due care is taken with respect to skin safety. It is not possible to generalise these things as everyone has their unique skin behaviour. Be mindful of certain sensitive skin areas like eyes, neck and body folds as the potential of reactions can be high,” she suggests. “Always choose products that prioritise safety and transparency, over anything else,” concludes Sethi.

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