Is ‘normal skin type’ the beauty industry’s biggest sham?

We’ve heard and seen the term ‘normal skin type’ being used widely in the world of cosmetics, however, experts want you to know that it rarely exists

Everything that the beauty industry catapults, from a basic skincare product to a technologically advanced treatment, thrives on two fundamentals—different skin types and their varying concerns. Today’s quick-witted beauty consumer knows the drill—identify your skin type, jot down your most prominent skin concerns and opt for products that tick the required boxes regarding textures, ingredients and potency. This three-step diagnosis will lead you to either of the three cogent skin types- oily, dry and combination — all self-explanatory. However, another skin type makes its way to jars and tubes of a host of skincare products—the normal skin type. 

From CeraVe to Cetaphil, Kiehl’s to Weleda and Bioderma, so many cult-favourite brands have been pasting the skin type—a certain product is meant for—upfront on the packaging, and normal skin type has been part of the fine print too. But, can someone have skin that is not too dry and not too oily, free of acne, blemishes and dark spots and is (skin) concern-proof? We ask two dermatologists to break down what normal skin type really is.

What does normal skin type imply?

When you think of normal skin type, picture ‘perfect’ skin comes to mind, sans greasy films, scaliness, zits, pigmentation and sensitivity that is barely ever bothersome. But does anyone’s skin cut the mustard? “Normal skin type refers to balanced and healthy skin that doesn’t exhibit excessive sebum production and has an even texture, optimum levels of hydration, no sensitivity, no breakouts and even skin tone,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, a Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Rules. The terms ‘normal skin’ and ‘balanced skin’ are often used interchangeably; however, the latter insinuates “that the skin’s equilibrium is actively maintained through an appropriate skincare routine and lifestyle choices.”

Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics, Dr Madhuri Agarwal, says, “A normal skin type’s parameters also include oil-to-water proportion in the skin (basically neither too oily nor dry), very minimal pores, no sensitivity to any external stimuli and good elasticity.” She believes maintaining skin free of active problems without excessive products is easy for individuals with normal skin. Achieving this skin type is difficult and requires consistency concerning skincare regimes and in-office treatments. 

Is normal skin type a myth?

“Normal skin type does not exist,” says Dr Agarwal. “In my experience, ‘normal’ skin type is not mentioned in any of my studies as a classifying skin type.” Since the skin's chemistry keeps changing with age and weather, the skincare professional reveals that she has encountered only three common skin types in her years of practice—oily, combination and dry skin. “In practice, we see individuals with oily and acne-prone skin or dry and pigmented. In my opinion, the term ‘normal skin type’ is more of a marketing gimmick for products,” says Dr Agarwal. Dr Sharad believes one could have a normal skin type; however, it isn’t a forever phenomenon. “Yes, it is possible to have normal skin, but factors such as genetics, age, environment, diet, lifestyle and hormonal fluctuations can all influence the condition and behaviour of your skin. Even individuals who typically have what is considered 'normal' skin can experience changes in their skin’s condition.”

Skin types are subject to change

No matter what skin type you have, your pressing concerns and the behaviour of your skin are destined to fluctuate from time to time, especially if you’re a woman, owing to the hormonal turmoil in your body across the different stages of your life. Firstly, Dr Sharad agrees that you could be born with a "normal skin type", which can change later in life. According to her, hormones, environmental factors, ageing, pollution, medicines, food and lifestyle are some reasons for the metamorphosis. Dr Agarwal says it is impossible to have normal skin forever as hormonal fluctuations can temporarily impact the appearance and behaviour of the skin, causing acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles.

What’s your skin type?

Normal or oily, dry or sensitive—any skin type can become susceptible to common skin concerns like blemishes, texture, acne and hyperpigmentation at any stage in life. And that’s exactly why it’s important to autotune yourself to the three-step analysis before signing up for any skincare product or treatment; the first step is finding your skin type. There are various ways of identifying your skin type. The first one is blotting a paper on your skin as soon as you wake up, shares Dr Agarwal. “If it soaks up a lot of oil, you have your answer.” Dr Sharad stressed the face wash test. “Wash your face with a cleanser when you wake up; wait an hour without applying anything. It is oily if your skin feels oily, and a transparent thin tissue paper gets uniformly blotchy when you dab it on your face. If the tissue gets blotchy in patches, you have combination skin. If your skin feels stretched and dry, it is dry. It is sensitive if your face breaks into a red or itchy rash easily. If none of these transpire, you have relatively normal skin,” explains the skin expert. “There are also various skin analysers that dermatologists use to check the skin and determine the type thoroughly,” adds Dr Agarwal.

Maintaining skin health is important to prevent any future skin damage, such as photo-ageing or any skin changes triggered by hormonal or lifestyle changes, irrespective of the skin type, says Dr Agarwal. “The skincare principles applicable to all skin types, in general, include choosing a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser, a moisturising lotion to hydrate the skin, a broad-spectrum sunscreen and an antioxidant serum,” she says.

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