Mature skin that’s oily too? We have a skincare routine just for you

Mature skin is usually in extra need of care, and if it’s atypically oily, your skincare regimen requires thoughtful consideration. The experts weigh in

From retinol serums and bakuchiol face creams to supplements comprising resveratrol and antioxidants such as vitamin C and glutathione, the beauty and wellness market is inundated with anti-ageing products targeted towards older women to improve their skin and diminish signs of ageing. 

According to a GlobeNewswire report, the global anti-ageing skincare market, valued at approximately 60 billion dollars in 2021, is projected to double to 120 billion dollars by 2030 at a CAGR of 7.5 per cent. While the anti-ageing skincare market does thrive on the insecurities of ageing women and establishes a distinctive necessity for a separate set of ‘age-defying’ products, one indeed needs to make space for some tweaks in their skincare routine, as they—and their skin—begins to age, courtesy of the unique skin concerns due to a loss of collagen and elasticity. However, contrary to the customary pattern, mature skin tends to become oily sometimes, which calls for a conscientiously curated skincare routine that equally addresses all skin concerns. We have experts who will help you navigate this conundrum.  

Why does skin get drier with age?

Be it Dior’s Capture Totale – Firming & Wrinkle-Correcting Creme, Lancôme’s Absolue Soft Cream Revitalizing & Brightening Moisturizer or Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Super Anti-Aging Face Cream, all products crafted for ageing skin features emollient and humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid, shea butter, ceramides and the likes, to ensure your skin receives adequate moisture and nourishment. “As people age, the skin tends to become drier due to certain intrinsic and extrinsic factors,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author Dr Jaishree Sharad.

“The skin contains natural moisturising factors (NMFs) such as amino acids and urea, which help to retain water and maintain skin hydration. But, as we age, the skin’s NMFs levels decline, resulting in decreased moisture retention. This may cause the skin’s barrier function to also weaken, making it more susceptible to moisture loss and environmental damage. Also, decreased sebum production and reduced skin cell turnover (the process by which old skin cells are shed and replaced with new ones) also contribute to dryness.” Hormonal fluctuations during menopause and other extrinsic factors like exposure to harsh weather conditions, UV radiation, pollution, and other environmental aggressors may cause the buildup of dead skin cells on the surface, says Dr Sharad. 

Can mature skin become oily instead?

Characterised by enlarged pores, worsened texture, sagging, dryness and pigmentation and freckles, ageing skin can become oily due to a possible play of hormones, believes New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author Dr Kiran Sethi. 

“Everyone’s hormones are different; very often, testosterone or another type of androgen is elevated in more mature skin, which could cause oiliness. But, it may not always be problematic.” 

Dr Sharad believes that oily mature skin can be attributed to hormonal changes, poor skincare habits, genetics and lifestyle. “During menopause, estrogen levels decrease, which can cause the sebaceous glands to produce more oil, leading to oil buildup,” says Dr Sharad. “Due to slowed down skin cell turnover, dead skin cells can accumulate on the skin’s surface, trapping oil there and contributing to a more oily appearance; environmental factors like humidity or spending time in heated or air-conditioned environments, can also affect the skin’s oil production.” She also reminds us of how the skin works, “When the skin is dry, it may trigger a feedback mechanism where the sebaceous glands attempt to compensate for the lack of moisture by producing more oil, leading to an oily complexion.” Lastly, a lot of potent anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, kojic acid and vitamin C have the propensity to dry out the skin. And thus, they can strip the skin of its natural oils, “prompting the sebaceous glands to produce more oil to compensate for the dryness.”

Strike a balance

It's important to maintain a balance between anti-ageing and oil-control properties when deciding on a skincare routine to ensure all your skin requirements are met, without overlooking any of its needs. Dr Sharad says, “It’s essential to tweak your routine to accommodate these variations in your skin’s oil production.” These variations are not vastly different from a skincare routine for dry and mature skin. While incorporating rich, emollient-based facial creams and anti-ageing ingredients like retinol, peptides, or bakuchiol remains unaltered for both skin types, the difference surfaces concerning boosting moisture versus controlling oil. And that is most prominently distinctive in the first step of a skincare routine—cleansing. 

“For dry and mature skin, a mild, soap-free cleanser that won't strip the skin of its natural oils is preferred; a non-stripping cleanser that removes excess oil and impurities without over-drying the skin is best suited for oily and mature skin,” says Dr Sharad. Additionally, although both skin types must indulge in chemical exfoliation to keep dead skin accumulation at bay, the concentrations and potency of the acids will differ for both skin types. Sharad recommends exfoliating dry, mature skin 1-2 times a week with milder acids, whereas exfoliation is a must daily for mature, oily skin. “It is essential [for oily skin] as it unclogs pores and removes dead skin cells. Gentle chemical exfoliants containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are ideal.”

A balanced and healthy diet, rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants, optimum water consumption and religious sunscreen application is paramount for ageing skin, regardless of the skin’s sub-type. “Use a cleansing milk instead of washes or soaps, add hyaluronic acid serums for hydration and line filling and antioxidant serums in the morning and a retinol or bakuchiol-based serum or cream at night for anti-ageing benefits,” says Dr Sethi. The skin expert swears by the effectiveness of the 'Miracle treatment' offered in her clinic for oily and mature skin as it “uses new fractional transbrasion technology to increase the products absorption and create a healthy balance of skin cells between living and dead cells to train the skin and regulate the body haemostasis. It also stimulates cell turnover, collagen and elastin production through controlled exfoliation resulting in improved skin texture.” Dr Sharad believes AHA and BHA chemical peels, microdermabrasion and hydra facials best suit this skin type.

“Opt for oil-free or non-comedogenic products that suit mature skin. Proper cleansing, exfoliation and hydration are still vital for balancing oily skin while addressing the signs of ageing. If you're unsure about the best approach for your skin, consulting a dermatologist can provide personalised advice and recommendations,” concludes Dr Sharad.

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