Do we really need SPF in every beauty product we use?

Sunscreen has long been the beauty industry’s most recommended product, and in India, the most ignored. For years, dermatologists, cosmetologists, and beauty editors called it non-negotiable, but Indian consumers failed to listen. Until recently.  Today, consumers have been taking the polar opposite route—scouting for that sun protection promise in every beauty product. Even for brands, debating SPF claims in the product development boardroom is the new normal. The result? SPF—short for Sun Protection Factor—is imprinted onto every second beauty product, right from tinted moisturisers to hair sprays, concealers to lip balms, and blushes to compact powders.  

While the sunscreen sceptics have been proven wrong, we may have swung too far in the other direction. Many dermatologists recommend using SPF 30 sunscreen for everyday protection, while others suggest SPF 50 sunscreen for prolonged outdoor activities or intense, frequent sun exposure. Anything higher offers only marginal increased protection. “An SPF of 30 protects against 97 per cent of UVB rays, making it more than enough protection for India,” says dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi. 

If that’s the case, why are we piling up—and don’t confuse this with reapplication—sunscreen on our face? Is it imperative that all our beauty products feature SPF, and does that level up our sun protection game for real? How much of this SPF obsession actually protects Indian skin? Or are we just buying into clever marketing? 

How much SPF is good for Indian skin? 

Since the UV rays—both UVA and UVB—from the sun can have multifold adverse effects on skin, sunscreen is essential, states celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “UV rays can cause tanning or worsening of pigmentation and premature signs of ageing such as open pores, leathery skin, and wrinkling. Sunscreen shields the skin from all of that.”

“EVERY EXTRA UVB PROTECTION ON TOP OF WHAT IS ALREADY RECOMMENDED ONLY ADDS ONE PER CENT OF EXTRA PROTECTION—ALONG WITH EXTRA OIL, CLOGGED PORES, AND BREAKOUTS THAT CAN SABOTAGE YOUR SKIN” — Dr Kiran Sethi

Additionally, sunscreen prevents the rapid breakdown of collagen and elastin, and most importantly, offers protection against skin cancer. While Sethi recommends using 2mg per cm² of SPF to have some real efficacy, celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad shares, “An adult should apply about half a teaspoon for the face and neck, and one ounce for the full body—reapplying every 2 to 3 hours is advised.” That sounds pretty achievable for the sunblock you use every day, doesn’t it?

The key, dermatologists say, is consistent use in sufficient amounts—whether it’s SPF 30 sunscreen or SPF 50 sunscreen.

Do beauty products with SPF, like lip balm and blush, actually offer sun protection? 

Blame it on fearmongering or an excess of educational content on social media—either way, sunscreen has become a staple, even in a non-beauty enthusiast’s routine. And now, in the quest for maximum sun protection, consumers are enticed by every beauty product claiming to champion SPF. Through clickbait claims like “A tinted moisturiser that also doubles as sunscreen”or “A lip balm that nourishes + depigments your lips” or “A compact powder that mattifies as well as protects your skin”, brands are endorsing a simple yardstick: the more SPF, the better—even if it isn’t entirely practical (SPF-infused cream blushes, we’re looking at you). But that isn’t true, and the skin experts concur. 

“SPF in hair sprays, tinted moisturisers, or make-up doesn’t offer the same efficacy as a dedicated sunscreen. These products are not applied in sufficient quantities or evenly enough to provide full protection. Besides they do not contain the SPF promised, it’s always less than SPF 30, or even SPF 15,” highlights Sharad.

Moreover, to fully exercise the SPF claimed by any product, it must be used in adequate amounts, which, in the case of most make-up products, isn’t feasible. The superlative SPF-ication of make-up, skincare and hair care doesn’t make sense to Sethi. “Can you do 15-20 swipes of an SPF-infused powder? Or use two-finger lengths worth of foundation? I seriously doubt it. Unless you're using that much of the product, it’s just marketing. You also end up paying more for an oilier product without the benefit (SPF agents tend to be oil-soluble),” cites Sethi. 

“AN ADULT SHOULD APPLY ABOUT HALF A TEASPOON FOR THE FACE AND NECK, AND ONE OUNCE FOR THE FULL BODY—REAPPLYING EVERY 2 TO 3 HOURS IS ADVISED” — Dr Jaishree Sharad

The medical professional is also of the opinion that overdoing SPF is pointless. “Every extra UVB protection on top of what is already recommended only adds one per cent of extra protection—along with extra oil, clogged pores, and breakouts that can sabotage your skin,” says Sethi. 

Another peril of this SPF-ication of sundry beauty products is the unintentional redundancy of a sunblock. It’s easy for a consumer to assume that it’s okay to skim over sunscreen as the subsequent products in line (think tinted moisturiser, blush, powder, and setting spray) contain SPF, “and that can be dangerous,” warns Sethi. “While the increasing prevalence of SPF is commendable as it augments the awareness regarding sun protection, its effectiveness varies considerably among different product categories. And, although beneficial, it does not suffice as the sole method of sun protection.” Sharad adds, “They can supplement sun care, but should not replace a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. For optimal protection, sunscreen should always be the base layer,” she advises. 

The rules are the same for your hair too. “Yes, SPF-infused hair products can help protect the hair shaft from UV damage, thereby preventing colour fading, dryness, and breakage. However, they won’t protect your scalp from risks of skin cancer, and therefore, cannot replace the need for a dedicated sunscreen, especially during prolonged outdoor activities.” Sprays, smoothing creams, and leave-in conditioners that deliver sun protection are best used as complementary tools as a larger strategy that includes seeking shade, wearing sun-protective clothing, and wide-brimmed hats.

And, if you’re betting big on oral sunscreen supplements, remember it doesn’t act as an alternative to topical sunscreen either. “While they may contain antioxidants or vitamins that help support skin health, they are not a substitute for topical sunscreen,” begins Sharad. “There is no strong clinical evidence proving they offer significant standalone protection against UV rays. In fact, over-reliance or misuse can create a false sense of security, leading to more sun damage.”

Why sunscreen is still your best defence—even with SPF in make-up

Even if your beauty routine layers SPF-infused products, none can replace a broad-spectrum sunscreen. Choose your sunscreen wisely—and your skin will remain protected from harmful sun exposure, irrespective of the nature of the other beauty products you wear underneath or on top. “A broad-spectrum sunscreen with minimum SPF 30 and PA ++++ is advisable. Choose the sunscreen formulation according to your skin type” recommends Agarwal. “People with oily skin need to pick gel- or water-based formulations of SPF to prevent the skin from becoming greasy and triggering breakouts. Those with dry skin, on the other hand, can choose cream-based formulations of SPF. Look for water-resistant sunscreen, especially when you stay in humid places such as Mumbai, or when you are into sports, or perspire easily.”

And if you’re confused about choosing between physical and chemical sunscreen, Sethi offers a simple breakdown: “Octocrylene, Octyl Salicylate, and Homosalate and the most efficient UVB blockers by weight, per milligram. The problem is, they can be absorbed into the bloodstream—to what or if any effect, we don’t know. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are efficacious but you need a pretty high percentage of them—so less effective per milligram, resulting in that tacky white feel and white cast. But they are not absorbed and are essentially quite safe.”

The next time you’re blown away by a brand’s hottest drop—a moisturiser, lip gloss, cheek rouge or skin balm—featuring SPF, pause and reconsider if the premium you’re paying is backed by substantial merit or just a solid marketing plan.