While we largely blame pores for clogging our skin and causing blackheads, they actually perform essential functions for our skin’s health
If you apply the popular ‘Paris’ filter on a selfie you uploaded on Instagram, it can make your pores disappear in a swipe. It also often makes us wish this augmented reality was real. There’s plenty of options on the Internet—and offline too—to help with that. How to close open pores. How to get rid of large pores. Products to minimise pores. And all I typed on the search engine was one word—‘pores’. What else is one to do when, to the naked eye (adulterated with information overload), it’s probably easier to blame these pesky pores that clog our skin and sprout out blackheads and zits?
It might also be good to remind ourselves that behind the filter, we’re all pretty much the same, pores and all, and that the tiny holes we’re so afraid to show, actually perform essential functions for our skin’s health. They may get clogged and flare up, but if these openings on the surface of our skin didn’t exist, none of the products we put on it would work, nor would our skin’s natural ability to heal itself. In defence of the few visible pores out of the five million present in the human body, we try to direct the spotlight on their existence.
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If you have enlarged pores, it’s probably genetic, besides the influence of poor lifestyle habits. Image: Pexels
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Pores are like the gatekeepers of our skin, says Dr Madhuri Agarwal. Image: Pexels
The truth about pores
Under our skin’s surface rest sebaceous and sweat glands that produce oil and sweat respectively. Pores are structural openings connected to our hair follicles that go further into the skin and are responsible for transmitting this secretion of sweat and oil to the skin’s surface, thereby keeping it well lubricated. “They are like the gatekeepers of our skin," says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder and medical director of Yavana Aesthetics Clinic. “They manage the input and output of fluids to the skin’s surface, maintaining the skin’s temperature and keeping it from drying up.” It’s easy—oil keeps our skin nourished, sweat maintains body temperature—both available within our body, carried forward by our pores. Pores are a permanent and important structure of our skin that also work to maintain a strong barrier against aggressors like bacteria. But the problem with pores is that they get clogged.
Our sebaceous glands have the tendency to produce more oil than needed for various reasons—hormonal changes, for instance. These changes are most visible on the face, where the skin is thinner and more exposed as compared to the rest of the body. “The hormones trigger an increase in sebum production, especially on the cheeks, forehead and nose, making the pores more prominent,” says Agarwal. Excess sebum and sweat production mixed with dead skin cells and dirt pollutants lead to pore-clogging, which, as Agarwal confirms, is common in one’s early 20s due to excess oil production.
“THEY MANAGE THE INPUT AND OUTPUT OF FLUIDS TO THE SKIN'S SURFACE, MAINTAINING THE SKIN'S TEMPERATURE AND KEEPING IT FROM DRYING UP”
Dr Madhuri Agarwal
For those in disapproval of the size of their pores, let’s clear the confusion: pore size is mostly genetically predetermined, and reducing their appearance comes as close to ‘shrinking’ them. If you have enlarged pores, it’s probably genetic, besides the influence of poor lifestyle habits. “Sun exposure and smoking can contribute to the further breakdown of elastin and collagen,” adds Aggarwal. If we learn how to care for our pores, it’ll only make our skin’s naturally balancing function stronger.
Treating our pores right
On the bright side, “pores need a basic, consistent routine,” says Agarwal. This means, knowing what works for your skin type, avoiding the urge to over wash or use physical scrubs that can strip the skin barrier and lead to more congestion and sebum production, and picking non-comedogenic products.
Agarwal’s pore-care routine in a nutshell—a pH-balanced foaming face wash twice a day, chemical exfoliation with AHA or BHA acids twice a week and broad spectrum sunscreen daily, irrespective of sun exposure. She recommends BHAs like salicylic acid for younger skin to balance oil production and unclog, “niacinamide and azelaic acid can be added along with with gel-moisturisers,” and introducing retinol- and collagen-boosting ingredients like peptides, and AHAs like glycolic acid for mature skin.
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This mask from Kiehl's ensures deep-cleansing of the pores, courtesy of the Amazonian White Clay. Image: Kiehls.in
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The niacinamide toner is gentle on the skin and aids with maintaining the health of your pores. Image: Amazon.in
Our pores may still get clogged and seem larger on some days than on others. Ultimately, it’s about accepting them. I’ll admit, Paris’ charm has started to wear off on me. While I still play the swipe game, truth be told, whether in augmented reality or not, I’m a lot more loving towards my visible pores than I was a decade ago.
If you’re looking for gentle skincare that will help keep your pores clean and skin hydrated, here are our top picks:
Paula's Choice Skin Balancing Pore-Reducing Toner
Bioderma Sebium Gel Moussant
Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum
Minimalist 10% Niacinamide Face Serum With Matmarine + Zinc
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Solution
Dermafique Perfect Ph Facial Cleanser
Dermalogica oil free matte spf30 face moisturiser and sunscreen
The Derma Co. 1% Hyaluronic Acid Sunscreen Serum with SPF 50 & Niacinamide
Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask
Also Read: Should those with oily skin use face oils? The experts say yes
Also Read: Why good-enough skin is truly good enough