Should those with oily skin use face oils? The experts say yes

Contrary to popular belief, the idea of smearing face oil on skin that’s already greasy can actually be beneficial. Here’s what experts have to say about the misconception

If you’re someone with oily skin, you will, more often than not (read: always), end up refraining from facial oils while shopping for skincare products. The reason? The widely-believed myth that facial oils aren’t intended for oily skin. Scrutinise the “recommended for oily skin” dossier on any skincare brand’s website, and the page will only feature salicylic acid cleansers, clay masks, gel-based moisturisers or, at the most, a lightweight cream. However, as opposed to what traditional beauty brands market, facial oils could actually be of great help to oily skin—there is scientific evidence to support it. We talk to industry experts who throw light on the advantages of facial oil for oily skin in particular, plus spell out the best greasy skin-friendly picks.

Why should oily skin care about facial oil?

Oily skin is vulnerable to a slew of concerns—blackheads, whiteheads, acne, texture and clogged pores are a few common ones. And why is that so? Excessive sebum production is a phenomenon that those with oily skin struggle with. If your skin identifies as oily, you may think that applying as little as a single drop of oil (even if it’s one that specifically caters to oily skin) can exacerbate the predicament on your skin. While you’re not entirely wrong, you would be surprised to know that the right  facial oil does the absolute opposite of what you theorise. Confused? Explaining the uncharacteristic function of facial oils, Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal says, “When you use oils that are light and non-comedogenic (one that doesn’t clog the pores), it can actually benefit oily skin.” 

According to Agarwal, as oily skin is often exposed to oil-absorbing and acne-preventing products infused with ingredients like charcoal, salicylic acid, clays and such, it is perpetually over-stripped of natural oils which leads to moisture loss, and therefore, irritated skin. It’s paramount to note that at such times, the skin’s natural tendency is to produce excess sebum and compensate for the absent moisture to balance out the lost oil.

“Oils are basically made of lipids that give moisture—not hydration—to the skin. They sit on the surface of the skin when applied, and help to prevent transepidermal water loss, locking moisture in the skin. So those with oily skin can consider facial oils when the skin is irritated and senses a lack of moisture. In this case, facial oils will help to balance the sebum production and minimise the irritation,” says Agarwal. However, New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi suggests that while those with oily skin can use facial oils, they should not use them as often as those with dry skin.

The sp(oil)ers

While facial oils do make the cut for oily skin, not all kinds are good for you. Just like a lightweight rosehip oil might not suffice for parched skin, a heavy, comedogenic oil (coconut oil, for instance) will overwhelm oily skin. Additionally, one needs to scrupulously factor in the skin concerns that emerge as a by-product of oily skin. “If you have infected acne, you should avoid oils as it can worsen the infection and multiply the acne; rosacea and seborrheic dermatitis can flare up too. They can also trigger eczema and allergic contact dermatitis as certain oils and fragrances can worsen the skin condition,” reveals Agarwal.

Additionally, oiling your scalp with highly comedogenic oils like castor oil, coconut oil or olive oil can trigger acne since it can occlude the facial areas like the forehead, leading to pore congestion, increasing the risk of  whiteheads, blackheads and gradually active acne, believes the skin expert.

Save these tips

“Oils with lower comedogenic values of up to two are least likely to clog pores and aggravate oily skin,” shares Jessica Jayne, founder, Pahadi Local. She recommends Pahadi Local’s Apricot Kernel Oil (gutti ka tel) and Almond Oil (kagzi badam ka tel). Debabani Guha, national trainer, L’Occitane En Provence India talks about the brand’s cult offering, Divine Youth Oil, which works well with oily skin. She says, “It contains a blend of plant oils which are rich in Vitamin A, C and E, and omega 3, 6 and 9, which are naturally found in the skin’s protective lipid barrier along with anti-inflammatory properties. A deficit of linoleic acid (omega 6 fatty acid) causes the sebaceous glands to produce a thicker, stickier sebum, which is the true culprit behind clogged pores and acne.” 

Sethi mentions that grapeseed oil, babassu oil and sunflower oil are some helpful  non-comedogenic oils that those with oily skin can use. “However, people with sensitive skin should never use CBD oil as it can cause breakouts,” she warns. For Agarwal, oils with no comedogenicity and a lightweight chain structure such as jojoba oil, squalene oil, argan oil, marula oil, grapeseed oil, pomegranate oil and pumpkin oil are winners (for oily skin) since they generally do not trigger acne. She also suggests using facial oils moderately, only 2-3 times a week. “A skincare tip I received very early on in my career was from Mrs Anita Lal, founder, Good Earth; she recommended mixing face oil and rose water in a 1:1 ratio for tropical climates. This has personally helped me continue using face oils through the year while making this small adjustment in the application based on the season,” concludes Jayne.

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