The truth about foaming cleansers explained

Given the ambivalence associated with foaming cleansers,  we ask skin experts to weigh in on the product

The term ‘squeaky-clean skin’ has been subjected to its fair share of controversy, and is often used and abused by brand marketers to sell face cleansers and scrubs like hot cakes—foaming cleansers being the most common category. ‘Harsh’, ‘disruptive’ and ‘skin-unfriendly’ are words that are usually used to describe foaming cleansers; thus, it doesn’t come as a surprise that dermatologists have been advising against using these products for as long as one can recollect. However, most of these cleansers—if not all—don’t feel like they’ve actually cleansed the skin unless a little bit of foaming action doesn’t take place. We reach out to two skin experts who sound off their take on how good or bad foaming cleansers can be. 

Foaming cleansers versus other cleansers

From gel- and oil-based cleansers to milk- and cream-based ones, the market is chock-a-block with myriad options to choose from, based on your skin type and its ever-changing requirements. Traditional foaming cleansers are not only different in terms of the packaging (read: dispensing pump) but also formulation—heavy on surfactants for that soapy effect. “Foaming cleansers contain ingredients that penetrate the skin and cleanse it of dirt and grime,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “They are different from conventional cleansers in the way they are available as gel or mousse but when mixed with water, they turn into a foamy lather.”

According to Prudvi Mohan Kaka, chief scientific officer at The Ordinary, the key difference between various formats of cleansers is the surfactant selection, which is important as different groups of surfactants have distinct properties. “Certain surfactant types offer stable foam formation to provide a satisfying lather. On the other hand, some offer less or no foam; this, however, does not mean they are any less effective at cleansing than foaming surfactants. Foam is not an indication of cleansing power. Additionally, some foaming cleansers often use higher levels of surfactants or additional surfactant and foaming agents to increase foaming capacity, to provide a sensorial benefit that many enjoy.”

What caused the bad reputation?

Just like most other beauty products, foaming cleansers were also traditionally fabricated from a brand and not a consumer point of view. Perhaps, that is what cost the category a downfall. “In the past, foaming cleansers were usually made of only surfactants like SLS (sodium lauryl sulphate), which contains tiny, thin molecules that can penetrate deep into the skin and when left on for a longer time, can strip the skin of its natural oils. The longer it is kept on, the more moisture loss happens, which can cause irritation and dryness,” explains Agarwal. “Foaming products require foaming agents, all of which can be higher in alkaline than the skin (4.5 to 5.5 on the pH). Most foams are approximately 6, making them harsh and very stripping/drying. Using these then results in having to find other products to rebalance the damage done as opposed to benefitting from the positive effects of a great cleansing balm/oil/cream product,” skin expert Jane Scrivner told Glamour.

The revamp of the foaming cleanser

“Foaming cleansers are designed to penetrate deep to clean the dirt and pores clogging on skin, making it ideal for combination to oily skin that accumulates build up very easily,” says Agarwal, indicating that the product could actually be beneficial for certain skin types. For example, foaming cleansers are a great option for acne-prone skin as it not only alleviates excess sebum and debris that has seeped into the pores but also eliminates the potential contact between your germ-loaded fingers and the skin. The good news is that today, foaming cleansers are formulated with a skin-first approach—irritating substances are a big no-no. 

“Nowadays, the way sodium lauryl sulphate is formulated means it is not as irritating as it used to be. It is combined with other agents in newer formulations such as added polymers to form bigger particle size, which means it’s no longer small enough to penetrate deep into the skin and strip moisture,” explains Agarwal. “Also, there are newer ingredients like glucosides, ether sulphates, laureates and betaines that foam well without irritation. Foaming cleansers also feature humectants like glycerin and emollients for hydration that make it non-irritating.”

Kaka is also of the opinion that today, any cleanser in any format can be designed to be gentle on the skin. “Our Glucoside Foaming Cleanser, for instance, uses decyl- and coco-glucoside, which are surfactants that function as the cleansing components within our formula to effectively remove surface-level impurities while also maintaining the skin's moisture barrier,” shares Kaka. “Glucosides surfactants are naturally derived nonionic mild surfactants that are commonly used in formulations that require gentleness, including baby care and sensitive skin care products,” he adds.

There’s more you need to know

While skin-enriching foaming cleansers are now in the spotlight, the typically detrimental ones still prevail in the market, which means you’ve got to make a well-informed decision while purchasing the product. Sharing some tips on how to shop for a gratifying foaming cleanser, Agarwal recommends looking for a product with a pH level ranging between 4 and 6 to maintain the skin’s acid mantle. “Opt for foaming cleansers containing SLS with polymers and added emollients and humectants in the formulation,” says the dermatologist. “When shopping for a new foaming cleanser, I recommend looking for claims on products that relate to gentleness and barrier support to ensure that it will not be stripping to the skin,” advises Kaka. “Additionally if there is a pH value available for the product, we recommend selecting a product that is slightly acidic, as the skin’s pH sits in the range of 4.5-6.5. Lastly, it is always important to select a product you will enjoy using in your regimen,” he further explains. 

“Always mix the cleanser with some water and rub it between your palms to create foam before applying it on your face for a cleansing effect, leave it for 30 seconds to a minute and then rinse it off for best results. In case you wear make-up or tinted sunscreen, remove it with a make-up remover before using the foamy cleanser,” mentions Agarwal. “It’s best to add a gel or moisturising lotion after cleansing the face to curb the irritation and dryness.”

Below are some foaming cleansers that won’t play havoc with your skin:

1. Micellar Mousse, Medik8

2. Gentle Foam Cleanser, Gunam Beauty

3. Glucoside Foaming Cleanser, The Ordinary

4. Foaming Cleanser, CeraVe

5. Kale + Green Tea Spinach Vitamins Superfood Cleanser, Youth to the People

6. Sensitive Skin Cleansing Foam, Kama Ayurveda

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