Move over Vitamin C — these 5 ingredients do a better job

The road to brighter, glowing skin doesn’t have to be through sensitivity, acne, and irritation

The beauty industry has never been this cluttered. This makes it simple to comprehend why every chemical active ingredient doesn’t achieve cult status, save for a few, such as hyaluronic acid, salicylic acid and vitamin C. However, vitamin C seems to have an edge over the other two—its popularity on TikTok, with over 6.8 billion views, surpasses that of hyaluronic acid and salicylic acid combined. A potent antioxidant, vitamin C is touted as a powerhouse of skin-brightening properties. But here’s the thing—it doesn’t suit everyone. Super potent, and primarily available in oil-soluble bases, vitamin C can be a menace for oily, acne-prone, and even sensitive skin types. However, there are some lesser-known ingredients that could substitute vitamin C, sans any potential irritation. 

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), which means it is a gentle exfoliator that resurfaces the skin. However, that’s just where the benefits of this ingredient begin. “Kojic acid is a naturally derived skincare ingredient, obtained  from mushrooms. It inhibits and prevents the formation of tyrosine, an amino acid that’s needed to produce melanin. By inhibiting the production of excess pigment, it has a skin-lightening effect,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, a Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist. Kojic acid is more potent than vitamin C, since it is also more stable than the latter. Dr Jaishree Sharad, a celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Rules, says, “It has moderate antioxidant and collagen boosting properties and works well for pigmentary disorders like melasma when combined with other bleaching agents like hydroquinone or glycolic acid. It is best used at night, at a concentration of 2-4 per cent.”

Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is among the chemical actives consumed orally as well as applied topically to tackle a slew of skin concerns like rosacea, acne, pigmentation and more. “It is a versatile ingredient that helps with acne, post-acne blemishes (both red and dark), other hyperpigmentary conditions, and rosacea,” states Sharad. “Plus, it soothes the skin, owing to its anti-inflammatory and mild exfoliative action in contrast to AHAs. It is also pregnancy-safe, which makes it an ideal candidate for acne-prone and sensitive skin as a choice for treating hyperpigmentation.” However, there’s a catch—the long onset of action. “It may take several weeks of consistent use before you begin to see the effects, especially with hyperpigmentation. It is usually used at 10-20 per cent concentration,” says Sharad.

Alpha Arbutin

If you detest hydroquinone, a popular skin-whitening agent, give alpha arbutin a shot. “It is a skincare ingredient which is naturally extracted from bearberry and can be used instead of vitamin C. It is more effective than vitamin C in treating skin blemishes and pigmentation, says Agarwal. “Alpha arbutin is one of the more potent depigmenting agents; it converts in vivo into hydroquinone (the most potent bleaching agent). However, it is a milder alternative to hydroquinone and bypasses many of its side-effects, making it a popular choice for those with an uneven skin tone. Usually used at 1-2 per cent concentration, it often works well when combined with other depigmenting agents,” adds Sharad. Since it is released in the skin more gradually, Agarwal recommends it for sensitive skin, which is easily vulnerable to irritation and redness. You can combine alpha arbutin with niacinamide and AHAs for best results.

Gallic Acid

Though not as well-known as the other ingredients on this list, gallic acid is perpetually on the radar of skincare brands that resort to the most recherché and promising ingredients, from a scientific point of view. Internationally, Sunday Riley, Honest Beauty and The Inkey List have implemented gallic acid in their products, while closer home, brands like Aminu are making the ingredient more accessible. “Available as diglucosyl gallic acid, it is known for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties,” says Sharad. “The synthetic ingredient is produced through biotechnology and is known to be better than vitamin C. It blocks the MITF (melanocyte-inducing transcription factor) and tyrosine activity that basically produces melanin and reduces the melanin content in the skin,” explains Agarwal. 

Tranexamic Acid

If you’re sleeping on tranexamic acid, you’re clearly not one among the 199.5 million people viewing the ingredient-led content on TikTok. Consumed topically as well as orally, tranexamic acid is a powerful anti-pigmentation ingredient. “It is ideal for the Indian skin type and can be used during pregnancy too, unlike many other ingredients that are not safe. It helps in reducing excess melanin production—especially caused by sun exposure—by obstructing the interactivity of surface skin cells with the melanin-producing cells in the epidermis, which reduces the melanin load in the skin,” explains Agarwal. “It also has anti-inflammatory properties, and while it does not treat post-acne scars, it does visibly reduce redness, especially in skin of colour. Although the efficacy of oral and intradermal tranexamic acid has already been proven in melasma, research is ongoing when it comes to topical formulations, but it does appear to be promising,” says Sharad.

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