6 K-beauty ingredients that Indian skin can benefit from

While every other beauty enthusiast is hooked to Korean skincare, sifting through the giant K-beauty glossary and identifying the ingredients that truly complement Indian skin is key

K-beauty can easily pass off as one of the most long-standing skincare trends in recent times, not just in India but across the globe. Speaking of the Indian market in particular, K-beauty has been on an inclining rise; the popularity of Korean beauty products has increased from 41.4 per cent in 2018 to 53.7 per cent in 2022, leading to an escalation of almost 30 per cent in just a period of four years. These range from premium drugstore brands such as The Face Shop and Innisfree to luxury ones like Peach & Lily, SK-II, Glow Recipe, Sulwhasoo, Laneige and more. In fact, the more niche K-beauty brands like COSRX, Haruharu Wonder, Neogen and KLAVUU have also become available in India. However, with more brands and products comes a myriad of new ingredients that you may not essentially be aware of. While some ingredients like snail mucin and rice water have been doing the rounds for a while now, there are some others possessing great merit too. We list six of the best Korean skincare ingredients for Indian skin and ask dermatologists to explain why they’re worth your consideration.

Rice Water

The water of this kitchen staple has been touted as an effective solution to cop thicker, longer hair. However, its skincare benefits are noteworthy too. “Rice water demonstrates antioxidant properties due to the presence of ferulic and phytic acids. Research conducted in 2018 also suggested its potential to address signs of ageing. For the skin, rice water is helpful in moisturising and reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation,” says Dr Manasi Shirolikar, consultant dermatologist and founder of online consulting clinic drmanasiskin.com. 

Since Indian skin often contends with hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, primarily stemming from sun exposure and hormonal imbalances, rice water, enriched with essential vitamins and minerals, acts as a gentle brightening agent, aiding in the reduction of dark spots and promoting a more uniform complexion, states Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Niketa Sonavane. “Its mild exfoliating properties contribute to a smoother skin texture, making it a valuable inclusion in the skincare regimen.”

Propolis

Many tend to confuse propolis with honey; while both are obtained from honeybees, they’re not exactly the same. Propolis is a naturally occurring resin-like substance in the beehive that is used for many purposes, from cosmetics to industrial. Shirolikar tells us that propolis is a very diverse product with at least 300 active compounds having been identified in it. Some of them include phenolic acids (including ferulic acid), flavonoids, minerals (calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper, iron, cobalt and selenium), vitamins (B1, B2, B6, C and E) and enzymes (succinate dehydrogenase, glucose-6-phosphatase, adenosine triphosphatase, acid phosphatase).

According to Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetician and founder, ISAAC Luxe, just like honey, propolis also contains antimicrobial and antifungal properties that contribute to the accelerated healing of skin infections, redness and irritation, that are prone to occur in a humid climate such as India’s. “As a result, propolis has shown a reduction in the occurrence of cutibacterium acnes. It also stimulates collagen and has antioxidant properties due to ferulic acid, which brightens and smoothens the skin, moisturises it, and reduces signs of fatigue,” states Shirolikar. Along the same lines, Sonavane adds that propolis also prevents bacterial growth, and thereby acne, promoting clearer and healthier skin.

Snail Mucin

When something amasses over 817 million views on TikTok, it’s kind of a big deal. The hashtag #snailmucin has done exactly that. Be it COSRX’s viral Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence or Beauty of Joseon’s Revive Serum, snail mucin-infused products are not only trending on the Internet but are also endorsed by dermatologists and beauty editors. “Snail mucin isn’t the slime that comes out whenever the snail moves, but is a substance that’s excreted when the snail is under stress. Also known as snail secretion filtrate or SSF, it contains moisturising agents that work to repair the barrier function of the skin, which is especially great for sensitive and dehydrated skin types,” explains Shirolikar.

“The harsh effects of the sun and environmental pollutants contribute to premature ageing concerns among individuals with Indian skin. Snail mucin, renowned for its reparative properties, promotes collagen synthesis and enhances skin elasticity,” begins Sonavane. “Its ability to accelerate skin cell regeneration aids in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a beneficial ingredient for maintaining youthful and resilient skin in the face of external aggressors often encountered in the Indian climate.” That it contains allantoin and manganese also makes it soothing and anti-inflammatory in nature.

Centella Asiatica

Also known as Cica or Gotu Kola, Centella Asiatica is a perennial plant that has been a part of Ayurvedic medicine as well as Chinese traditional medicine, which testifies that it is a powerhouse of healing and soothing properties. Centella Asiaticahas four active compounds—Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid and Madecassoside, apprises Shirolikar. “Centella Asiatica has soothing and healing properties, making it ideal for Indian skin types that may experience irritation or sensitivity due to the climate,” explains Mittal Gupta. 

“Its ability to fortify the skin barrier helps shield against environmental stressors, making it an indispensable ingredient for addressing the impact of pollution and temperature fluctuations on Indian skin,” says Sonavane. The best part about this ingredient is that it is widely available in both Korean and homegrown skincare brands. If you have One Thing’s Centella Asiatica Essence and PURITO’s Centella Unscented Recovery Cream available, you also have 82°E’s Gotu Kola Dew and Dr. Sheth’s Cica & Ceramide Overnight Repair Serum.

Ginseng

Ginseng—a cousin of ginger—though widely used in luxury Korean cosmetic formulations, largely remains an untapped ingredient. It is known for its anti-ageing properties and can help rejuvenate Indian skin, which often bears the effects of being continually exposed to the sun and pollution. It also promotes collagen production and skin elasticity, says Mittal Gupta. Rich in antioxidants and phytonutrients, it facilitates improved blood circulation, creating a more balanced complexion. “Its revitalising properties work to restore radiance and reduce the appearance of dark spots, making it an ideal component for addressing pigmentation issues commonly encountered in Indian skin,” adds Sonavane.

Birch Sap Juice

As the name suggests, Birch Sap juice is derived from the barks of the birch tree, and is slowly making its way to skincare formulations. From serums to lotions and moisturisers, you will find Birch Sap juice in many hydration- and moisture-boosting products, owing to its exceptional hydrating capabilities, says Sonavane. “Its gentle exfoliating properties aid in the removal of dead skin cells, ensuring that the skin’s moisture balance is retained, which is crucial for preventing dryness-related issues among most individuals with Indian skin,” she says.

Also Read: 6 French pharmacy brands nudging K-Beauty off the shelf

Also Read: Sheet masks, essences and ampoules: How K-beauty became a global phenomenon

Also Read: Why using sheet masks comes at the cost of the environment