Is it smart to trust skin-type labels on your beauty products?

Amidst the information on the label of a product is the mention of a skin type, indicating the product’s suitability. Does it make sense to follow it blindly?

Today, it doesn’t take a skincare expert to build a decent-ish skincare regimen. There are some simple, basic rules—carefully going through the ingredients, assessing the texture and after-feel of the product, patch-testing, and shopping for products that complement one’s skin type—as key pre-purchase habits. While this approach is mostly fail-proof and especially beneficial for those oblivious to skincare jargon, you might, at times, find yourself gravitating towards a product that doesn’t necessarily tick all the right boxes. For instance, you could be someone with oily skin and still enjoy facial oils or have dry skin but still occasionally pick a gel-based moisturiser. Skincare and a one-size-fits-all approach have never been a part of the same world. In that case, how much significance can you place on what’s mentioned on the product packaging in terms of skin type suitability? We ask two professional skincare experts to sound off their thoughts. 

Why does product packaging bear skin types in the first place?

The cosmetic industry is perpetually subjected to evolutions; trends become extinct and then make a comeback. Until a few years ago, science-backed skincare brands with formulations thriving on chemical chemistry weren’t popular. Brands catered to the masses with simple offerings that put across the message in the most straightforward manner—not just on the product packaging, but also in all of their marketing communications, TVCs for example. Dry skin? Use a cold cream. Struggling with pimples? Try a “clearing” face wash. Want brighter skin? Use a face scrub. No one spoke about the varying needs of different skin types or the active ingredients they were infusing into their products.

Consumers today are curious, consume informative content from various sources and are open to exploring new products and brands. Thus, having clear-cut indicators to identify suitable products from a swarm becomes difficult. Typically, skin types such as dry, combination, normal, oily, acne-prone, and sensitive are mentioned on the labels, says New Delhi-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi. “Skin type information on product packaging is included to help consumers make informed choices about products that are suitable for their specific skin needs,” begins Dr Jaishree Sharad, a Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Rules. “Products formulated for specific skin types are more likely to address particular skin issues effectively. Additionally, some ingredients in skincare products can cause irritation or worsen certain skin conditions if they are not suitable for the user’s skin type. Listing the target skin type, in this case, helps users avoid potential problems,” explains Sharad. 

What influences the skin type recommendation?

Skin type recommendations on product packaging are typically based on a combination of factors, including ingredients, textures, and the intended effects of the product, informs Sharad. While the most common factor is the skin type as it focuses on the unique needs and potential concerns of each skin type, the ingredient mix “plays a crucial role in determining its suitability for different skin types. For example, products for dry skin may contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, while those for oily skin may have oil-absorbing or mattifying ingredients,” explains the skincare expert.

Sethi throws light on the other medium of deriving the skin type suitability. “For oily or acne-prone skin it is mostly texture-based—light and oil-free (although this is a marketing concept, not really medically necessary), more gel-like textures, with some non-comedogenic claim. For sensitive skin, on the other hand, it will likely avoid fragrance and colour (hopefully), and have a calming ingredient like Cica or allantoin. In the case of dry skin, heavy and rich ingredients and texture are typically promoted.” Many times, the results of dermatological testing also play a role.

The skin type recommendation is not an ultimatum

While the skin type mentioned on a product’s packaging can help skincare rookies make a slightly more informed decision, you don’t need to follow it blindly, share both Sethi and Sharad. “Skin is highly individual. What works for one person may not work for another, even if they have the same categorised skin type. Personal skin concerns, sensitivities, and preferences vary widely,” says Sharad, which explains why someone could find a skincare product, that is not supposedly recommended for their skin type, to be beneficial. Sethi feels like there are too many misconceptions when it comes to skin types. “The reality is that most people have no idea about what their skin type is. So it is their guess, but they usually decide based on what their face feels like after washing it (which also depends on whether they use hot water or a harsh cleanser), or after they apply moisturiser and check if their skin feels greasy or dry (which also depends on weather and whether the moisturiser is thick or thin).” Needless to say, the skin type recommendation can be remotely helpful, but only if you’ve figured out your actual skin type in the first place.

“It is important to note that the skin type can be a general guideline, and individuals may have unique skin needs and reactions,” says Sharad. “Everyone’s skin is unique, and factors like climate, age, and individual sensitivities play a role. While these recommendations offer a starting point, it is essential to consider your specific skin needs and any reactions you may have to certain ingredients. Personal observation and adapting your skincare routine as necessary are key to finding the right products for your skin.” Sethi recommends taking the skin type recommended seriously only if you have acne-prone skin, in which case, you should consciously look for non-comedogenic products. “Visualise a goal for your skin, then choose an entire routine based around it, and see if that works,” she suggests.

“It’s advisable to do a patch test when trying a new product and, if in doubt, consult with a dermatologist. Additionally, if you have concerns about a product’s compatibility or its effectiveness, or if you’re dealing with specific skin issues, consult a board-certified dermatologist. They can provide guidance and may recommend adjustments to your skincare routine,” concludes Sharad.

Also Read: Is ‘normal skin type’ the beauty industry’s biggest sham?

Also Read: Why hydrafacials are suitable for all skin types

Also Read: Does brown skin require a different set of skincare products?