Does brown skin require a different set of skincare products?

Excess melanin in the skin isn’t just restricted to the colour of the complexion—its scope is much wider

Given the augmentation of sk-intellectuality, we factor in a handful of aspects before making any small to big investment in skincare products—from skin type and concerns to climatic conditions. However, we seldom give our skin tone a thought during the course of this process. “For the most part, the ingredients and types of products needed to address skin concerns remain the same regardless of skin colour. However, there are some physiological differences to take into consideration for people with deep skin tones or more richly-melanated skin,” mentions an article by science-backed skincare brand Paula’s Choice. The presence of excess melanin in the skin isn’t just restricted to the colour of the complexion—its scope is wider, implying a slightly varied set of requirements. To cater to those requirements, several brands—like Dr Barbara Sturm—have released a separate edition of their bestselling products for darker skin tones. So, does that mean those with a deeper skin tone need to invest in these specially-created products? We ask three dermatologists to weigh their opinions. 

How is brown skin different? 

There’s more than the skin-deep appearance of brown skin that sets it apart from other skin types. “White skin and brown or darker skin differ primarily in melanin content,” says Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “Brown or darker skin contains more melanin, providing natural sun protection and slower ageing,” shares Dr Madhuri Agarwal, celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics. She adds that the universal Fitzpatrick scale (skin type 1-6) categorises brown skin as between skin type 3-6. “Brown skin is structurally different from lighter skin types; it is thicker and the layers are more compact than lighter skin types. There is a higher amount of melanin (eumelanin) and the skin colour cells called melanosomes are larger as compared to white skin. The content of ceramides is also lower in darker skin types.” 

There’s more, says New Delhi-based dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi. “Darker skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, which includes conditions like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma. This means that even minor skin injuries and conditions—such as acne or insect bites—can leave long-lasting dark marks on the skin. Individuals with brown or darker skin may also have a different texture than lighter skin due to the presence of larger and more active sebaceous glands and larger pores, making them more prone to oily skin.” However, do these minorchanges imply a major variation in the skin’s behaviour and requirements?

To what extent do the needs of brown skin vary?

The needs of darker skin are different due to the structural differences, opines Agarwal. Explaining further, she adds,  “Darker skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation due to various reasons such as PIH, excessive and uncontrolled sun exposure, unevenly distributed spots, and common post-injury dark scars. The tendency to develop dark circles and dark patches around the face and mouth areas (pigmentary demarcation lines) are genetically present in dark skin types. This skin type also tends to get dehydrated and look coarse more easily.” 

To address all of this and the more-than-usual sebum secretion, the skin regimen must be devised mindfully, keeping the tendencies of melanin-rich skin in mind. “Moisturisers with natural oils, solid protection from UVA rays, visible light and blue light (sunscreen with PA ++++) and treatments to address specific concerns like keloids and melasma are some fail-proof ways to manage melanin-rich skin and its concerns,” states Sharad. “Avoid ingredients that can exacerbate hyperpigmentation.” 

Is investing in specialised products a must?

Not everyone with brown or darker skin will need separate skincare products, apprises Sharad, as what you apply on your skin highly depends on your skin concerns and needs, which vary from person to person. “However, being aware of these differences and choosing products that address specific concerns can help individuals with brown or darker skin achieve and maintain healthy, radiant skin. Consulting with a dermatologist or skincare professional can also provide personalised recommendations.” If you have concerns unique to melanin-rich skin, you can build a skincare regimen that focuses on addressing them. 

As a thumb rule, it is always advisable to use skincare products that cater to your skin type—oily, dry or combination; similarly, investing in a melanin-rich skin-specific product will only prove to be beneficial, in case you fall under the category. However, it’s not a mandate, also because not many products are readily available under this category, especially in the Indian market. “While specialised products for darker skin can offer targeted solutions, many universal skincare products work well for a range of skin tones. It’s crucial to understand individual skin concerns and choose products accordingly, instead of solely focussing on skin tone,” says Sharad. 

What’s ideal for melanin-rich skin?

Whether you purchase a specialised skincare product or not, here are some dermatologist-approved tips to bookmark. “Darker skin types require products with non-greasy, lightweight formulations for the face and rich, thick textures for the body. The products should be able to cater to different skin types like oily, combination, and dry skin. Ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, and squalene are recommended as they hydrate and protect the skin from external aggressors. Plus, ingredients that work at melanin alteration and reduction like tranexamic acid and azelaic acid are worth considering,” suggests Agarwal.

“Antioxidants like vitamin C and E and ferulic acid are ideal to prevent long-term damage. To adhere to the specific needs to suit our climatic conditions, it’s key for the formulation of every skincare product to be sweat-resistant, gel-based, lightweight, and non-comedogenic.” Along the same lines, Sethi advises keeping away from potent chemical actives such as retinol which could be too harsh for some skin types. “It’s best to opt for AHAs, bakuchiol, and peptides because Indian skin, in particular, is largely used to these ingredients from an Ayurvedic perspective; you can expect less irritation from these ingredients,” concludes the skincare professional.

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