Busting the biggest misconceptions about oily skin

There is no dearth of misnomers that oily skin is subjected to. Two dermatologists help us debunk common myths

Tackling dry patches and flaky skin seems to be as simple as slapping on a good ceramide moisturiser. On the other hand, large pores, excess sebum secretion and sporadic breakouts—all second nature to oily skin—may require a more mindful regimen featuring multiple ingredients to tackle different active and passive skin concerns. Managing oily skin effectively can be flummoxing. Thus, it doesn’t come as a surprise that this very skin type is subjected to many myths and misconceptions. From dangerous advice like skipping sunscreen and moisturiser to extracting comedonal acne, we ask two dermatologists to refute common myths about oily skin.

Myth #1: Oily skin doesn’t need to moisturise 

This is easily the most common misapprehension about oily skin. Given that the epidermis is covered with a sheeny film of sebum sans any visible dry patches, it is believed that oily skin is innately nourished and doesn’t need any extra topical TLC. However, this is not true. “When you skip moisturising, the skin may actually produce more oil to compensate for the lack of hydration, potentially exacerbating the issue,” says New Delhi-based Dr Kiran Sethi, a celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense. Along the same lines, Dr Madhuri Agarwal, a Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist and founder of Yavana Aesthetics explains, “Oily skin does not equate to moisturised skin. The myth that oily skin should not apply facial oil or moisturiser can worsen the oiliness of skin.” Both skincare professionals recommend using a weightless, non-comedogenic and preferably water-based moisturiser twice a day to prevent the skin from producing excess sebum to replenish any deficit. We love Belif’s Aqua Bomb, Neutrogena’s Hydro-Boost Gel Moisturizer, and COSRX’s OIL-FREE Ultra Moisturizing Lotion with Birch Sap for oily skin.

Myth #2: Oily diet = oily skin

Much has been spoken about the gut-skin relationship recently—from multivitamin supplements to beauty gummies, the surge of these wellness-first products is proof. However, it wouldn’t be quite fair to conclude that one has oily skin as a result of an oil-heavy diet. “Oily skin is primarily influenced by genetics and hormonal factors. While diet can play a role in skin health, it’s an oversimplification to say that oily skin is solely the result of an oily or unhealthy diet,” says Sethi. “Excessive consumption of certain fatty and processed foods might contribute to skin issues, but it’s not the sole cause of oily skin.” However, certain foods like whey protein, dairy and other high-glycemic foods can contribute to the worsening of oiliness on the skin. Agarwal suggests that one should be watchful of foods that have the propensity to trigger acne, but this can vary from person to person. Irrespective of your skin type, sticking to a balanced diet, and keeping away from unhealthy indulgences on a regular basis will benefit not just oily skin but every other skin type.

Myth #3: Oily skin needs to be squeaky clean

Yes, cleansing is essential and clean skin is mandatory across the board. But, when we pursue “squeaky clean” skin, it implies an over-cleansed and over-scrubbed visage. This, to us, sounds more like a weekly ritual than a daily practice. “Keeping oily skin clean is important, but it doesn't mean you should over-cleanse or strip your skin of its natural oils,” says Sethi. Doing so can disturb the skin barrier and lead to skin irritation, apprises Agarwal. To avoid any potential reactions, it is recommended to use a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser—one that removes excess oil and dirt without over-drying the skin, twice a day, to strike a balance between well-cleansed and hydrated skin. If you’re looking for recommendations, we suggest Paula’s Choice’s Skin Balancing Oil-Reducing Cleanser, 82°E’s Sugarcane Soak Cleanser, and Bioderma’s Sebium Gel Moussant Actif Intense Purifying Cleansing Foaming Gel.

Myth #4: Oily skin 🤝 acne-prone skin

The term “oily” is often used as a precursor to acne-prone skin; many skincare products have the skin-type suitability labelled as “for oily, acne-prone skin”. While oily skin is more susceptible to acne and breakouts, does that mean other skin types never have to deal with acne? Of course, they do. “Acne is influenced by a combination of factors including genetics, hormones, and lifestyle,” clarifies Sethi. “Oily skin is more prone to acne because excess sebum can clog pores and create an environment where acne-causing bacteria thrive. However, people with other skin types can also experience acne.” A disrupted barrier is, in fact, the second most common cause of acne after congested pores. Moreover, it’s more common for dehydrated and dry skin types to have a weakened barrier, which also makes them prone to acne. Ultimately, you’ve to keep your barrier fortified and pores clean to prevent acne. Should you still encounter breakouts, opting for a treatment plan with ingredients that suit your skin might help.

Myth #5: It’s imperative for oily skin to go big on exfoliation

As an extension to the third myth, it’s a preconceived notion that regular indulgence in gritty and abrasive scrubs is the only answer to blocked pores and excessive oil on the skin. On the contrary, over-exfoliation—be it using a face scrub or a chemical exfoliant—can wreak more havoc. “Physical and chemical exfoliants can help remove dead skin cells, unclog pores, and improve skin texture. However, over-exfoliation can lead to irritation, redness, and even more oil production as the skin tries to repair itself. It's important to follow a gentle exfoliation routine, typically 1-3 times a week, depending on the product and your skin’s tolerance,” says Sethi. Additionally, Agarwal informs that when we use a physical exfoliator—especially ones with large granules—it can cause micro-tears and irritate the skin. Similarly, excessive chemical exfoliation can disturb the skin barrier and lead to redness and bumps. Therefore, while exfoliating oily skin from time to time can be beneficial, it should be done cautiously.

Myth #6: Sunscreen can make the skin oilier

For the longest time, people kept away from sunscreen owing to its greasy and sticky after-feel. Today, sunscreens have evolved monumentally. You can choose between lightweight mineral, chemical and even hybrid ones across formats like cream, lotion, sprays and sticks, leaving no excuse for not wearing a sunblock, even if you have oily skin. “Sunscreen doesn't inherently make the skin oilier; it's more about choosing the right sunscreen product for your skin type, begins Sethi, “Some sunscreens can feel greasy, but there are oil-free and matte-finish ones  that are specifically formulated for oily or acne-prone skin” Agarwal adds, “In case you don’t use sun protection adequately, it can end up leading to more oiliness and, in the long run, sun damage on the skin.”

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