Dive deep into the world of water-resistant watches–one of the most popular categories in the horological world
A diving watch is exactly what it says on the cover–a watch with which you can go diving (usually in the ocean) to various depths, in the knowledge that it will hold up under the pressure of the water and give you essential information while it’s at it. These timepieces are highly prized by watch lovers and are among the most popular categories in the horological world. While the fact is that a microscopic percentage of dive-watch wearers will actually go diving to the depths that their watch is capable of, they’ll know that their wrist ornament will be able to withstand the rigours of everyday use with ease; they’ll also know they’re wearing something ineffably cool. Think of one as you would a great sportscar – you know you’ll almost never drive it to its mechanical limit, but you’ll still feel like a million bucks.
What exactly qualifies as a diving watch, then? Connoisseurs will tell you that it’s a watch that’s fully water-resistant to at least 200 metres. It also needs to offer a dive-time mechanism–which is normally done via a unidirectional rotating bezel calibrated to 60 minutes. Most importantly, it needs to have a high level of luminescence for excellent visibility in poor light. Anything else is extra (and sometimes, unnecessary). Here, then, is a list of dive watches you just can’t go wrong with.
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Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller James Cameron Edition: Water-resistant to 3900 metres (no, that’s not a typo!)
This is the most hard-core diving watch you can buy, period. It’s dedicated to James Cameron and his descent to the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean–the Earth’s deepest point–in 2012 (he descended to a staggering 11 km under the ocean’s surface). Despite its incredible water resistance, it has a very wearable profile (extreme dive watches tend to be bulky) and will look good at a party as well as hundreds of metres into the ocean. This 44 mm watch is also relatively affordable given its unique status, and is already a collector’s item.
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Rolex Submariner: Water-resistant to 300 metres
Another Rolex, sure, but this one’s the OG Rolex. It first came out in 1953 and became an instant classic, and remains hugely desirable today (look out for one on Sean Connery’s wrist in Diamonds are Forever (1971) and, of course, on the wrists of countless celebrities). This is about as classic an everyday watch as you’ll be able to find, and its toughness means that the odd diving trip will be a piece of cake.
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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms: Water-resistant to 300 metres
Ironically, Blancpain beat Rolex to the punch in 1953 and announced the world’s first modern diving watch, the Fifty Fathoms. It’s not quite as desirable as the Submariner but it has legions of fans as well and has pretty much stayed the same through the decades. It’s a big watch, at 45 mm, but you can easily pull off the suit-and-dive watch look with it.
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Omega Seamaster Diver 300m: Water-resistant to 300 metres
This one is another all-time classic, (almost) as popular as the Rolex Submariner and just as good a watch. While relatively compact at 42 mm, it’s pretty chunky because of its thick ceramic bezel and its helium-escape mechanism at 10 o’clock. The watch passes Omega’s most stringent tests and has a better anti-magnetic rating than its other competitors, so if you’re a serious diver, this could be the one for you.
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Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300: Water-resistant to 300 metres
This is one of my favourite watches across categories. It’s desirable, has many iterations, is very affordable and is as tough as they come. It is available in different colours and sizes, and you can pick between an automatic and a quartz movement (the quartz is rated at 200 metres). The 300 is a 43 mm watch, so it’s quite well sized too.
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver: Water-resistant to 300 metres
I’ll admit that Audemars Piguet isn’t the first name I’d think of when the subject of diving watches comes up, but consider this–the elegance of a Royal Oak with the toughness of a diving watch? How can you lose? The legendary octagonal dial is present, along with some innovations. The dive-timer bezel has been accommodated under the outer one and is operated by a crown at 10 o’clock. There’s a display caseback too, showcasing the movement. A stunner, this one.
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Panerai Luminor Submersible Carbotech: Water-resistant to 300 metres
Panerai used to make watches for the Italian navy, so you know you’re getting the highest possible level of quality and accuracy when you buy one. The firm’s watches can be an acquired taste in terms of their design, but this one is seriously cool, with its very stealth, Batman-esque aesthetic. It’s a huge watch at 47 mm, and its Carbotech case is incredibly tough; the blue accents take care of the luminosity side of things.
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Richard Mille Rm32: Water-resistant to 300 metres
What’s a watch list without a touch of extravagance? The Richard Mille RM32 is (like all the firm’s watches) quite outrageous in terms of both design and price but that’s the whole point of the brand, after all. It’s skeletonised but maintains readability, with all the essential information engraved on the crystal. At 50 mm, it’s more grandfather clock than wristwatch, but a large wrist should contain it just fine. It’s also a flyback chronograph, so it can be reset with the push of a button.
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Seiko Prospex SRPH15: Water-resistant to 200 metres
These timepieces are nicknamed ‘Turtle’ because of their shape and are among the most affordable and reliable dive watches you can buy. This particular 42.4 mm model stands out because of its compass-style bezel with its crown at 4.30. It’s a watch that looks good with pretty much any kind of strap, be it leather, rubber, NATO or steel.
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Casio G-Shock Frogman: Water-resistant to 200 metres
The digital Frogman has some features beyond the capabilities of analogue dive watches. For example, there’s a tide graph, moon phase data and the ability to log data from your last 10 dives; it’s also possible to charge it via solar power. Nobody is going to wear this with a suit (if they know what’s good for them, anyway), but this G-Shock will almost certainly outlive its owner.
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