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The most iconic watches on every watch lover's list

A goldmine for any wearer, an object of envy for any observer

The danger with compiling an all-time list is that it’s always a subjective exercise. Some will read it excitedly, others will shrug, and many will froth indignantly. With watches, in particular, it’s a doubly difficult matter since pretty much anyone with a fine watch on their wrist is convinced it’s the greatest timekeeping mechanism ever made.

That said, we’re going to give this list a go anyway because some watches are simply timeless. This is for various reasons, but the primary one is the influence they have had over decades on the way that other watches have evolved. Part of the prerequisite of being an icon is a loyal fan following that prefers an unaltered design. These watches qualify in that respect—they’re as relevant and admired today as they were when they first launched. Importantly, you absolutely cannot go wrong with the watches on this list if you purchase them as investments. Plus, they look smashing no matter what you pair them with.

Six of the most timeless men’s watches

Rolex SubmarinerThe Submariner is the most iconic men’s watch and has been since its launch in 1954. It’s the original diving watch, and although very few owners take it to 300 metres below the sea’s surface, they know they can if they wish to. The watch has influenced every dive watch since and pioneered the GMT Master II bezel, a unidirectional, scratch-resistant mechanism that is iconic by itself. It’s also extremely good-looking and will likely never go out of fashion.

Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is the most iconic men’s watch and has been since its launch in 1954. It’s the original diving watch, and although very few owners take it to 300 metres below the sea’s surface, they know they can if they wish to. The watch has influenced every dive watch since and pioneered the GMT Master II bezel, a unidirectional, scratch-resistant mechanism that is iconic by itself. It’s also extremely good-looking and will likely never go out of fashion.

Patek Philippe CalatravaA masterpiece of minimalist design—and it’s been so since 1932 when it bailed the firm out of a tricky spot. Patek Philippe found that its customer base was thinning out, and it needed to pull a rabbit out of a hat; the Calatrava was that rabbit. The 31mm watch was built on the reference 96 movement, had no numerals on its dial and no complications either. There have been dozens of versions through the years, some even with (very subtle) complications, but at heart, the Calatrava remains the quintessential dress watch almost 100 years later.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

A masterpiece of minimalist design—and it’s been so since 1932 when it bailed the firm out of a tricky spot. Patek Philippe found that its customer base was thinning out, and it needed to pull a rabbit out of a hat; the Calatrava was that rabbit. The 31mm watch was built on the reference 96 movement, had no numerals on its dial and no complications either. There have been dozens of versions through the years, some even with (very subtle) complications, but at heart, the Calatrava remains the quintessential dress watch almost 100 years later.

Jaeger-LeCoultre ReversoThis watch has possibly one of the best backstories in all of watchmaking. In the 1930s, British polo players in India needed a watch that could take a licking and keep on ticking—and JLC came up with the Reverso, which had a reversible case, with glass in front and steel at the back; a slide/flip mechanism allowed the wearer to turn over the glass case to protect it from knocks. The Art Deco aesthetic was an instant classic, and remains so to this day; a statement piece if there ever was one.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

This watch has possibly one of the best backstories in all of watchmaking. In the 1930s, British polo players in India needed a watch that could take a licking and keep on ticking—and JLC came up with the Reverso, which had a reversible case, with glass in front and steel at the back; a slide/flip mechanism allowed the wearer to turn over the glass case to protect it from knocks. The Art Deco aesthetic was an instant classic, and remains so to this day; a statement piece if there ever was one.

Omega SpeedmasterThe Speedmaster was good enough to go to the moon, so it should be good enough for this list. The watch passed several stringent tests before it accompanied the astronauts aboard Apollo 11 and is still worn by modern astronauts. It is arguably the most famous sports watch and chronograph of all time. Its hefty design spreads over many variants, with numerous case, dial and strap options available, so you can customise it to a large degree (if you can get your hands on one, that is—it’s always in great demand!). It’s also relatively affordable, making it an excellent buy.

Omega Speedmaster

The Speedmaster was good enough to go to the moon, so it should be good enough for this list. The watch passed several stringent tests before it accompanied the astronauts aboard Apollo 11 and is still worn by modern astronauts. It is arguably the most famous sports watch and chronograph of all time. Its hefty design spreads over many variants, with numerous case, dial and strap options available, so you can customise it to a large degree (if you can get your hands on one, that is—it’s always in great demand!). It’s also relatively affordable, making it an excellent buy.

Audemars Piguet Royal OakIf a timepiece can pull off the feat of making stainless steel into a luxury item, it deserves to be on a list—any list. With its unmistakable octagonal steel case, glare-proof face and screw-locked crown, the Royal Oak is a modern classic. Designed by the legendary Gerard Genta in 1970, it brought the luxury steel sports watch into the world and is as coveted 50 years later as it was at its time of birth. The blue ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial and hour markers in white gold stand out without shouting— a subtle yet surefire way of announcing you’ve arrived.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

If a timepiece can pull off the feat of making stainless steel into a luxury item, it deserves to be on a list—any list. With its unmistakable octagonal steel case, glare-proof face and screw-locked crown, the Royal Oak is a modern classic. Designed by the legendary Gerard Genta in 1970, it brought the luxury steel sports watch into the world and is as coveted 50 years later as it was at its time of birth. The blue ‘Grande Tapisserie’ dial and hour markers in white gold stand out without shouting— a subtle yet surefire way of announcing you’ve arrived.

Santos de CartierPre-World War 1, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont wanted to demonstrate that controlled flight was feasible. What he needed was a watch that measured time intervals and allowed him to keep his hands on the controls. His friend Louis Cartier stepped in, converted a pocket watch into a wrist watch with a dial large enough to read at first glance, and thus was born the first pilot’s watch. The legendary Santos de Cartier lives on to this day, and many consider it the best dress watch you can buy. History, elegance, quality and design—it has it all.

Santos de Cartier

Pre-World War 1, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont wanted to demonstrate that controlled flight was feasible. What he needed was a watch that measured time intervals and allowed him to keep his hands on the controls. His friend Louis Cartier stepped in, converted a pocket watch into a wrist watch with a dial large enough to read at first glance, and thus was born the first pilot’s watch. The legendary Santos de Cartier lives on to this day, and many consider it the best dress watch you can buy. History, elegance, quality and design—it has it all.

Three must-have women’s watches

Cartier TankMade especially famous by Jackie Kennedy, the Cartier Tank’s history goes back to 1917 when Louis Cartier designed a watch inspired by the battle tanks he saw during World War 1 (a decidedly masculine inspiration for the quintessential ladies watch). Cartier was a jeweller, and thus very particular about what the watch would look like on the wrist, and it looked sensational. It was the choice of royalty (Princess Diana) and movie stars (Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo) and is still arguably the most important watch in Cartier’s line-up. The OG, if you will.

Cartier Tank

Made especially famous by Jackie Kennedy, the Cartier Tank’s history goes back to 1917 when Louis Cartier designed a watch inspired by the battle tanks he saw during World War 1 (a decidedly masculine inspiration for the quintessential ladies watch). Cartier was a jeweller, and thus very particular about what the watch would look like on the wrist, and it looked sensational. It was the choice of royalty (Princess Diana) and movie stars (Grace Kelly, Greta Garbo) and is still arguably the most important watch in Cartier’s line-up. The OG, if you will.

Patek Philippe NautilusAnother hit-it-out-of-the-park design from the mind of Gerard Genta, the Nautilus is one of the great statement pieces of our time. Genta reportedly came up with the nautically inspired design in five minutes in 1976. Since then, it’s become as close to unobtanium as is possible in the world of horology—waiting lists (for a watch sold at retail price) can be as long as ten years and resale values rocket through the roof. If you manage to score one, consider yourself fortunate; if someone happens to gift you a Nautilus, erect a statue in their honour.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Another hit-it-out-of-the-park design from the mind of Gerard Genta, the Nautilus is one of the great statement pieces of our time. Genta reportedly came up with the nautically inspired design in five minutes in 1976. Since then, it’s become as close to unobtanium as is possible in the world of horology—waiting lists (for a watch sold at retail price) can be as long as ten years and resale values rocket through the roof. If you manage to score one, consider yourself fortunate; if someone happens to gift you a Nautilus, erect a statue in their honour.

Van Cleef & Arpels CadenasThis is one of the most iconic watches ever made, for both men and women. First launched in 1935, the uniquely angled dial allowed the wearer to discreetly check the time without appearing rude to others or having to look at their wrist while driving. Its lines are typical of the 1930s aesthetic, and the twin-snake bracelet had a clasp that resembled a padlock. The Duchess of Windsor was among its first wearers and was influential in its design, and the Cadenas is still a certified classic in its current iteration.

Van Cleef & Arpels Cadenas

This is one of the most iconic watches ever made, for both men and women. First launched in 1935, the uniquely angled dial allowed the wearer to discreetly check the time without appearing rude to others or having to look at their wrist while driving. Its lines are typical of the 1930s aesthetic, and the twin-snake bracelet had a clasp that resembled a padlock. The Duchess of Windsor was among its first wearers and was influential in its design, and the Cadenas is still a certified classic in its current iteration.

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