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Shruti Thacker profile imageShruti Thacker

The Radiomir—iterations of which were launched at the recently concluded Watches & Wonders—has a remarkable near-century-long lineage

Panerai’s recent launch is steeped in heritage and uniqueness

Panerai’s latest Radiomir iteration of watches straddles the past, present, and possibly the future too

Watch enthusiasts typically display steadfast loyalty to one or two preferred brands, maintaining their devotion, irrespective of evolving market trends and fluctuations in price tags. 

Panerai—whose popular watches come in sizes from 36mm to 47mm or larger—is a classic example of such loyalty, having solidified its place in the industry with its trendsetting large dials in the early 2000s. Despite shifting preferences for smaller case sizes, Panerai continues to be a strong preference among many, owing to its distinctive design elements and illustrious history. 

To fully appreciate the charm of a Panerai timepiece, you have to time-travel back to the 1860s and weave through the brand’s rich history—a story that straddles the past and present. As a supplier of precision instruments to the Italian Navy, the brand made watches that needed to be readable in low light and underwater conditions. This requirement led to the development of watches with large, luminous dials. 

The Radiomir in particular—iterations of which were launched at the recently concluded Watches & Wonders in Geneva—has a remarkable near-century long lineage. Commissioned by the Royal Italian Navy in 1916, Guido Panerai engineered and patented the inaugural Radiomir model, tailored specifically for military divers. This innovative design boasted a radium-based substance that enabled "self-illuminating sights" suitable for nocturnal torpedo launches and the general operation of weapons, a critical asset to the Italian Navy during the Second World War. 

But through these evolving times, Panerai's signature design ethos remains intact—unmistakably oversized dials, a ruggedly masculine aesthetic, and a crown guard to protect against accidental unscrewing.

Radiomir Quaranta in GoldtechTM The Radiomir Quranta is possibly the most modern interpretation of Panerai's inaugural watch, seamlessly intertwining elements from its origins. Panerai's Goldtech material is an innovative amalgam of platinum and copper that creates a unique gold hue with a striking red allure.

Radiomir Quaranta in GoldtechTM 

The Radiomir Quranta is possibly the most modern interpretation of Panerai's inaugural watch, seamlessly intertwining elements from its origins. Panerai's Goldtech material is an innovative amalgam of platinum and copper that creates a unique gold hue with a striking red allure. "Quranta," Italian for 40, denotes the timepiece's slimmer 10.15mm 40mm case; contrasting with the typical 47mm adaptation, it's the thinnest in Panerai's collection. However, the core features remain untouched, including the cone-shaped crown, the cushion-shaped case, and the white sun-brushed sandwich dial displaying indices and numerals solely at 12 o’clock and 6 o'clock.

Radiomir Otto GiorniThe new Radiomir Otto Giorni, or

Radiomir Otto Giorni

The new Radiomir Otto Giorni, or "eight days" in Italian, is a testament of Panerai’s knack for creating timeless, vintage-inspired timepieces. Ensconced in a 45mm case made out of Panerai's eco-conscious eSteel (recycled steel), these timepieces retain familiar features, such as small seconds at 9 o'clock and the "8 Giorni Brevettato" inscription at 3 o'clock. The sandwich dial with Super-Luminova, a tribute to the iconic Radiomir design language, remains a significant feature. 

Radiomir Annual Calendar Panerai breaks new ground with their latest addition to the Radiomir collection: The Annual Calendar. The first of its kind in-house movement displays the date at 3 o'clock with day and date visible through dual dial openings. A rotating disc shows the current month, with the transition enabled by an internal cam, facilitating an instantaneous information shift. The setting needs to be adjusted only once a year, at the end of February.

Radiomir Annual Calendar 

Panerai breaks new ground with their latest addition to the Radiomir collection: The Annual Calendar. The first of its kind in-house movement displays the date at 3 o'clock with day and date visible through dual dial openings. A rotating disc shows the current month, with the transition enabled by an internal cam, facilitating an instantaneous information shift. The setting needs to be adjusted only once a year, at the end of February.

Radiomir California With the new Radiomir California, Panerai introduces a 45mm California dial, deviating from the standard 47mm. It retains its vintage charm with a dial that blends Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. Each hand-finished case lends a unique character to every timepiece. The watch's aged appearance holds a particular charm for those seeking watches with a historic feel.

Radiomir California 

With the new Radiomir California, Panerai introduces a 45mm California dial, deviating from the standard 47mm. It retains its vintage charm with a dial that blends Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. Each hand-finished case lends a unique character to every timepiece. The watch's aged appearance holds a particular charm for those seeking watches with a historic feel.

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Shruti Thacker profile imageShruti Thacker
Shruti Thacker is the co-founder and editorial director of The Established. An award-winning journalist and digital strategist, she’s held key editorial roles at Vogue Arabia, WIRED Middle East, PopSugar Middle East, and Vogue India

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