Panerai’s 2023 Radiomir collection is a tribute to the brand’s rich history

The Established speaks with Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai’s chief marketing officer, to know more about the brand’s latest offerings

As someone who has been endlessly fascinated by high-end timepieces, right from their intricate craftsmanship to the complex mechanism that powers them, it was intriguing to learn more about Panerai’s legacy, design philosophy and the brand’s plans for the coming year. In conversation with Alessandro Ficarelli, chief marketing officer of Panerai, we delve into the brand’s iconic Radiomir line and their latest innovations in material and technology.    

Congratulations on the new launches! Do you have a personal favourite from the new timepieces?

Thank you! Personally, I love Radiomir, as I have a great appreciation for watches with a strong historical association and a classic aesthetic. While blue is my favorite dial colour, I also enjoy other colours.

As for my favourites from this year's collection, it's hard to pick just one. The Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech is a new classic with an Italian elegance, and it's completely different from what I have. Additionally, the first-ever 45mm size for the California Dial with a Brunito eSteel™ case finishing is a wonderful addition, a milestone for Panerai. I also love the Radiomir Annual Calendar. At Panerai, we're very particular about the diameter of our watches, and conduct extensive research to ensure the best proportions on the wrist. Our team in Milan works tirelessly to design them, and our manufacturing is based in Switzerland. Having to pick just one piece is like asking a parent to choose their favourite child–it's impossible!

Can you shed some light on the increased focus on Radiomir this year, as well as Panerai’s plans for 2023?

During the last couple of years, our focus was on restaging the Luminor line, which is our most iconic collection. We saw great success with Luminor Marina and different coloured dials, as well as the growing popularity of Carbotech and the Submersible QuarantaQuattro. We also introduced the Luminor Due in 38mm, which helped us reach a new set of consumers.

For 2023, we want to pay tribute to our Radiomir collection. The Radiomir case was the first to be presented to the Italian Navy in 1935. It was born as a functional instrument for the navy, with a very different usage than what we see today. We are introducing a brand-new finishing–Brunito eSteel™–which has never been used in the history of Panerai. Building on the success of the bronze case, we are confident that the Brunito eSteel™ case will be a hit, too. Our second addition is the Radiomir Quaranta, which is highly versatile and has a dial size apt enough for all wrists. The goldtech version with a white submerged dial is equally gorgeous. The other focus area is presenting more complications on the Radiomir, including the Annual Calendar. 

Can you give an overview of what led to the development of the Radiomir Annual Calendar?

The Radiomir Annual Calendar is a new and intricate timepiece, and that is the first annual calendar iteration for Panerai, developed specifically for the Radiomir collection. As a brand, we always strive to keep our design clean and minimal, without sacrificing readability or functionality. Our idea was to add a month indicator to the watch without compromising on its simplicity and elegance. It is powered by the automatic P.9010/AC caliber, which reflects Panerai’s DNA in crafting complications, while also featuring Italian style and flair with Swiss watchmaking expertise.

The development of this complicated calibre was a long process. The sandwich dial of the Radiomir Annual Calendar provides clear and immediate readability, with the date displayed at 3 o’clock and the day and month through two dial openings. The current month is displayed on an external moving disc, indicated by a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock. The feedback from watch enthusiasts has been overwhelmingly positive.

The Annual Calendar also has an Experience Edition watch. Can you elaborate on the experience that accompanies it?

The Experience Edition is a unique offering from Panerai that allows customers to not only own a beautiful timepiece but also experience the essence of the brand. With a sunbrushed burgundy dial, a black hand-dyed matte alligator strap, and a 45mm Platinumtech™ case, this timepiece is truly special. Every owner of this watch will be invited to participate in a journey to Rome. During this experience, customers will have the opportunity to learn about the artisanal know-how and rich heritage that underpins the brand, and will include tours of historical sites to exclusive events that celebrate the brand's values. The Experience Edition will help create an emotional connection between the customer and the brand.

The Radiomir California definitely is an interesting addition. Why the move towards downsizing the dial from 47mm to 45mm?

The Radiomir California dial is a unique design, popular among collectors. However, we understand that not everyone is comfortable wearing a 47mm dial. Therefore, we decided to introduce a smaller 45mm size for the California dial for the first time. This move towards downsizing the dial is in line with the current trend in the industry. But it is important to note that we did not compromise on the design elements of the watch. The 45mm size strikes the right balance and will attract new customers who appreciate the California dial but prefer a smaller size.  

Richemont already authorises secondhand watches. Panerai is part of Richemont. But AP & Rolex are now in the game, what does this mean for the watch industry?

I strongly believe that the secondhand watch market plays an important role in sustainability and the circular economy. It's essential to give a second life to a watch, which is why we partner with pre-owned watch specialists like Watchfinder & Co. Until a few years ago, the secondhand watch market was viewed as a competition, but now that notion is changing. Even a traditional classic brand like Rolex is embracing it. This is excellent news for the secondhand watch market, especially since their annual production is much higher than ours. Giving a second lease of life to a watch and trading it for something else is now completely normal. Collectors have a combination of new and pre-loved watches, and the consumer mindset is changing, too. We see the secondhand market as an opportunity to offer high-quality secondhand watches through authorised dealers. Panerai has been an early starter in this space, and we're thrilled to see other brands joining us.

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