Standout timepieces from Watches & Wonders 2022

Pablo ChaterjiPublished on Apr 07, 2022

We present a round-up of 10 watches that left us impressed at this year’s edition of the largest watch-making summit held in Geneva

This year’s edition of Watches & Wonders (formerly Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH) in Geneva was the first on-ground edition of the event in three years. Predictably, the watch world showed up in numbers to participate, including brands that otherwise marked their presence only at the other major watch show, the Baselworld Watch and Jewellery Show. These include Rolex, TAG Heuer, Patek Philippe, Zenith, Chopard and several others. Even though the number of visitors this year at Watches & Wonders was lower (none from huge markets like China, Russia and Hong Kong, for example), by all accounts, the event was a resounding success. We followed the proceedings online, and here’s a purely subjective list of the best and brightest of Watches & Wonders 2022.

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

This one’s a biased choice because I happen to think Seiko makes some of the finest watches on the planet. The Kodo (translating into “heartbeat” in Japanese–what a lovely name!) is the brand’s first mechanical complication watch with a unique movement that ensures absolute accuracy, as well as a jumping seconds hand. In a horological first, it combines a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism on a single axis. The constant-force carriage has a ruby on one of its arms, acting as a small seconds hand. When the crown is pulled out, the tourbillon carriage can be stopped, allowing you to set the time down to the second. Limited to 20 pieces, this is the most expensive watch Seiko has ever made, at a whopping $350,000, and showcases what the storied Japanese firm is capable of.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen

One of the issues mountaineering watches face is fogging at the highest altitudes, which occurs because oxygen inside the watch causes the crystal to cloud over. Remove oxygen completely from the movement, however, and the face will remain absolutely clear–which is exactly what Montblanc has done with the 0 Oxygen. Additionally, no oxygen means no oxidation damage either. Mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, a brand friend, will test the watch when he attempts to summit Mount Everest shortly. The watch–limited to 290 pieces–has undergone Montblanc’s rigorous 500-hour testing regimen. Other than mountaineers, it will be of interest to collectors who appreciate the level of innovation that has gone into making it.

Rolex GMT-Master IIAnything new that Rolex announces usually makes collectors sit up and salivate, and the GMT-Master II is no different. It (politely) yells “Rolex” from a mile away, for more reasons than one. Firstly, it’s in a new colourway, and in a move nobody saw coming, it’s a left-handed watch. Southpaws should justifiably be excited, but right-handers shouldn’t feel left out–when they wear it, the crown will not dig into their wrists since it’s placed on the case’s left. You can bet your last rupee that this watch will command huge resale premiums. — **Rolex GMT-Master II**
Anything new that Rolex announces usually makes collectors sit up and salivate, and the GMT-Master II is no different. It (politely) yells “Rolex” from a mile away, for more reasons than one. Firstly, it’s in a new colourway, and in a move nobody saw coming, it’s a left-handed watch. Southpaws should justifiably be excited, but right-handers shouldn’t feel left out–when they wear it, the crown will not dig into their wrists since it’s placed on the case’s left. You can bet your last rupee that this watch will command huge resale premiums.

Panerai QuarantaQuattro eSteel

Everyone’s favourite oversized diving watch appeared in a new avatar at Watches & Wonders. The QuarantaQuattro eSteel ties in with Panerai’s sustainability efforts by using recycled materials for its construction–apparently around 52 per cent of the watches weight. The unidirectional bezel has a high-gloss finish, also a first for the Italian brand, and the gradient effect on the highly polished dial is sensational.

Armin Strom OrbitWith the Orbit, Armin Storm has pulled off something quite significant–the watch has a date function that can be displayed on demand, a world-first. A column-wheel date complication drives the date, and is activated and deactivated by pushing a button. A central hand with a red ‘A’ tip points out the date on the watch’s black ceramic bezel, and the asymmetrical dial layout and skeletonised structure add to its slick appeal. It’s interesting to see boutique brands innovating to this degree. — **Armin Strom Orbit**
With the Orbit, Armin Storm has pulled off something quite significant–the watch has a date function that can be displayed on demand, a world-first. A column-wheel date complication drives the date, and is activated and deactivated by pushing a button. A central hand with a red ‘A’ tip points out the date on the watch’s black ceramic bezel, and the asymmetrical dial layout and skeletonised structure add to its slick appeal. It’s interesting to see boutique brands innovating to this degree.

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph

This is one heck of a watch, for several reasons. For one, it’s the most expensive watch the firm has ever made, at a stratospheric $379,000–and it’s a one-off. Secondly, it’s all about the diamonds–lab-grown ones. They are everywhere: the crown is a huge diamond, there are more in the case and the dial constitutes a polycrystalline diamond. TAG has also included a tourbillon, to round off the wow factor. As a one-off, this exceptional watch is really more of a vehicle for the brand’s capabilities than something meant to rack up sales numbers. Perhaps we’ll see some of its features in later models.

Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Rattrapante means “catch up” in French, and traditionally brings to mind a chronograph. What Parmigiani has done is to apply the concept to a GMT, another world-first. While travelling, you can track another time zone using the hour hand, which is advanced by a pusher at the eight o’clock position. Once you activate the rattrapante via a pusher on the crown, the main time’s hour hand jumps back and catches up with the GMT hand, which constantly tracks your home time’s hour. After this, it sits hidden under the main time’s hour hand. Collectors who appreciate innovation and brilliant build quality will be floored by this watch, especially from a young brand.

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time

The venerable brand doesn’t have to do much to excite the horological world, and with the Travel Time piece, it’s gotten everyone properly carbonated. For the first time, the Travel Time complication has been combined with an annual calendar that needs once-a-year adjusting. The dial is deliciously retro, and the case is that of the beloved Calatrava, so the firm really couldn’t miss with this one. Of course, you’ll need a hefty bank balance to get one–if you can get one.

Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222

In 1977, Vacheron Constantin released the 222, which was one among a new lot of luxurious but sporty steel watches such as the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Fewer than 1,000 pieces were made, resulting in resale prices of eye-watering levels. Now, collectors can access a brand-new imagining of the 222, with an updated movement and more gold than Fort Knox. It’s a sure-fire hit, if there ever was one.