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Pablo Chaterji profile imagePablo ChaterjiPublished on

Over the last decade, the horological world has seen a veritable explosion of thin timepieces.

8 ultra-thin luxury watches that blend technology and aesthetics

We round up a selection of svelte timepieces to consider for your next purchase

Manufacturers of fine watches have been in the business of making thin timepieces for many years now. Over the last decade, the horological world has seen a veritable explosion of such pieces. There’s no logical explanation for this trend, but little in the luxury watch world is based on logic; brands make them because they can, as a way to showcase their technological and aesthetic capabilities. The buyers follow, and then the one-upmanship begins, with watchmakers trying to outdo each other to pull off seemingly impossible timepieces: ‘thinnest ceramic watch,’ ‘thinnest perpetual calendar,’ ‘thinnest tourbillon’ and several other categories measured in millimetres currently exist. What also happens is that ultra-thin watch expertise gets transferred to other timepieces that–although comparatively thicker–are more affordable and yet svelte. Here’s a selection that comes in under the magic 10mm number.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P Automatic:This is the thinnest watch Piaget makes, at just 4.3mm. It has an ultra-thin automatic movement, an 18k hand-polished rose gold or white gold case, an alligator leather strap with an 18k white/rose gold buckle and an incredibly tough sapphire crystal face–all this with 40-metre water-resistance. The skeleton dial has a glorious sunburst pattern that shines depending on the angle of the light. A true stunner.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate 910P Automatic:

This is the thinnest watch Piaget makes, at just 4.3mm. It has an ultra-thin automatic movement, an 18k hand-polished rose gold or white gold case, an alligator leather strap with an 18k white/rose gold buckle and an incredibly tough sapphire crystal face–all this with 40-metre water-resistance. The skeleton dial has a glorious sunburst pattern that shines depending on the angle of the light. A true stunner.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra:Bulgari has been cranking out one record-breaking thin watch after another in the last few years. It is justifiably the king of this hill, with its amazing Octo Finissimo collection. The acme of the collection is the Ultra, at an incredible 1.8mm, and it’s not even the thinnest mechanical watch in the world (more on that later). It’s thinner than the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate, which is some next-level watchmaking. The Ultra has the Finissimo collection's signature matte grey look, in a 40mm titanium-and-tungsten carbide case with an integrated bracelet and an almost-invisible folding clasp. In keeping with the collection’s design cues, there are two separate counters for hours and minutes, with the seconds display at 6 o’clock on the fourth wheel. The profile, of course, is unbelievably thin.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra:

Bulgari has been cranking out one record-breaking thin watch after another in the last few years. It is justifiably the king of this hill, with its amazing Octo Finissimo collection. The acme of the collection is the Ultra, at an incredible 1.8mm, and it’s not even the thinnest mechanical watch in the world (more on that later). It’s thinner than the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate, which is some next-level watchmaking. The Ultra has the Finissimo collection's signature matte grey look, in a 40mm titanium-and-tungsten carbide case with an integrated bracelet and an almost-invisible folding clasp. In keeping with the collection’s design cues, there are two separate counters for hours and minutes, with the seconds display at 6 o’clock on the fourth wheel. The profile, of course, is unbelievably thin.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin:The Royal Oak is one of the horological world’s cult classics, and its already slick lines are further accentuated in ultra-thin guise. These versions have been around for a while, but the 8.1mm Jumbo is a mix of platinum and titanium, and the two metals balance each other out beautifully. While the former has a highly polished sheen, the latter offers a more brushed finish. The two-tone look is rounded off by a striking block-pattern dial in blue.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin:

The Royal Oak is one of the horological world’s cult classics, and its already slick lines are further accentuated in ultra-thin guise. These versions have been around for a while, but the 8.1mm Jumbo is a mix of platinum and titanium, and the two metals balance each other out beautifully. While the former has a highly polished sheen, the latter offers a more brushed finish. The two-tone look is rounded off by a striking block-pattern dial in blue.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-fine 1955:When this watch was launched in 2010, it was the thinnest mechanical watch on the planet, at 4.12mm. Other brands have shot past it since, but it’s still an achingly beautiful watch–and splendidly minimalistic. The in-house calibre 1003 hand-winder is a marvel, too–at just 1.3mm–and was first released back in the mid-1950s. The white dial makes the blue hour markers stand out, and the navy alligator strap adds a tasteful touch.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Ultra-fine 1955:

When this watch was launched in 2010, it was the thinnest mechanical watch on the planet, at 4.12mm. Other brands have shot past it since, but it’s still an achingly beautiful watch–and splendidly minimalistic. The in-house calibre 1003 hand-winder is a marvel, too–at just 1.3mm–and was first released back in the mid-1950s. The white dial makes the blue hour markers stand out, and the navy alligator strap adds a tasteful touch.

Chopard L.U.C. XPS:The 7.2mm L.U.C XPS is one of those timeless watches. The rose gold 40mm version is especially luxurious and understated, with a chronograph/stopwatch thrown in for good measure. The current version has slightly revised dials with a satin-brushed face, while the chrono dial had discreet concentric circles. A 22-carat gold micro rotor takes care of the (automatic) winding, and the power reserve is an impressive 65 hours. With this watch peeking out discreetly under your cuff, you’ll be the envy of any gathering.

Chopard L.U.C. XPS:

The 7.2mm L.U.C XPS is one of those timeless watches. The rose gold 40mm version is especially luxurious and understated, with a chronograph/stopwatch thrown in for good measure. The current version has slightly revised dials with a satin-brushed face, while the chrono dial had discreet concentric circles. A 22-carat gold micro rotor takes care of the (automatic) winding, and the power reserve is an impressive 65 hours. With this watch peeking out discreetly under your cuff, you’ll be the envy of any gathering.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto:This brand is a personal favourite because it produces fabulous watches at prices that are very reasonable in the luxury scheme of things. Ultra-thin watches that are priced under $1,000 are normally hand-wound in order to keep the thickness of the case down, but the Jazzmaster (what a great name!), in this price bracket has an automatic winding movement and still manages to pull off a thickness of just 8.5mm. It is available in a variety of dial colours, with each finished in a sun-ray effect. The case has OG sculpted lugs on it, to round off the design.

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto:

This brand is a personal favourite because it produces fabulous watches at prices that are very reasonable in the luxury scheme of things. Ultra-thin watches that are priced under $1,000 are normally hand-wound in order to keep the thickness of the case down, but the Jazzmaster (what a great name!), in this price bracket has an automatic winding movement and still manages to pull off a thickness of just 8.5mm. It is available in a variety of dial colours, with each finished in a sun-ray effect. The case has OG sculpted lugs on it, to round off the design.

Zenith Captain Ultra Thin:If you’re in the market for a super-slim and relatively affordable watch, this one stands up and raises its hand. It’s only 3.47mm thick, and looks smashing in a rose gold/black combination. The markers are 3D pyramids, the noon marker is a double-pyramid and the slender hands are very easy to read, due to the contrast in colours. The rich, black dial takes on a lovely golden glow when the light catches it. A clear sapphire caseback puts the movement on display, and the Elite 681 caliber is fully automatic.

Zenith Captain Ultra Thin:

If you’re in the market for a super-slim and relatively affordable watch, this one stands up and raises its hand. It’s only 3.47mm thick, and looks smashing in a rose gold/black combination. The markers are 3D pyramids, the noon marker is a double-pyramid and the slender hands are very easy to read, due to the contrast in colours. The rich, black dial takes on a lovely golden glow when the light catches it. A clear sapphire caseback puts the movement on display, and the Elite 681 caliber is fully automatic.

Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari:I’ve saved the best (well, the thinnest, at any rate) for last. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is now the world’s thinnest watch. With a claimed case thickness of just 1.75mm, it’s the equivalent of wearing a potato chip costing $1.88 million on your wrist; its leather strap is literally thicker than the watch itself. It comes just months after Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra was launched, and for a firm that specialises in making massive, chunky watches, it’s quite the statement. The watch’s 51mm by 39mm face is essentially just a bezel, and its design mimics the dashboard of a sportscar (there’s the Ferrari angle for you). Amazingly, the 1.18mm manual-winding movement sits inside the case, rather than using the caseback as a baseplate–a horological triumph. The watch will be limited to 150 pieces and is quite likely already sold out. Your move, Bulgari.

Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari:

I’ve saved the best (well, the thinnest, at any rate) for last. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is now the world’s thinnest watch. With a claimed case thickness of just 1.75mm, it’s the equivalent of wearing a potato chip costing $1.88 million on your wrist; its leather strap is literally thicker than the watch itself. It comes just months after Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra was launched, and for a firm that specialises in making massive, chunky watches, it’s quite the statement. The watch’s 51mm by 39mm face is essentially just a bezel, and its design mimics the dashboard of a sportscar (there’s the Ferrari angle for you). Amazingly, the 1.18mm manual-winding movement sits inside the case, rather than using the caseback as a baseplate–a horological triumph. The watch will be limited to 150 pieces and is quite likely already sold out. Your move, Bulgari.

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