Pablo ChaterjiPublished on Jun 28, 202210 boutique watch brands you should know about Move over the usual horological suspects–here are ten watch brands worth exploring before buying your next timepieceLet’s say you’re looking to purchase a brand new, luxe timepiece. Firstly, I envy you, and secondly, I’m willing to bet that the brands you have in mind are as follows (or in this ballpark): Rolex, Omega, Tag Heuer, Hublot, Panerai, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger Le-Coultre, A. Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe. There’s nothing wrong with any of these brands, of course; in fact there’s a reason they have top-of-mind recall among most watch fanatics, which is that they’re all fantastic.What if you were feeling a little adventurous, though? Everyone would like a great—and recognisable—watch on their wrist, but there’s a lot to be said for exclusivity, the sort that comes with brands that aren’t necessarily as well-known, but just as spectacular, more so in some cases. That’s where this list comes in. Not all of these watches are unknown in the strict sense of the word, and although some are breathtakingly expensive, many won’t cause your financial manager to admonish you if you do buy one.Andersen GenèveIn the late 1960s, a brilliant Danish watchmaker named Svend Andersen did something amazing. He got hold of a bottle and a bunch of watch parts and proceeded to put together a fully working watch inside that bottle. He went on to work for Patek Philippe, and eventually started his own company, becoming famous for some pretty wild watches with complications—many of them erotic in nature. The ‘Automaton Joker’ from the brand has The Joker on the dial, with his bulging eyes indicating hours and minutes, and his mouth containing a moonphase. Turn the watch over and there’s a poker game taking place, with the participants’ hands, eyes, and cards actually moving. If you want to stand right out in a crowd, this is the watch for you.BremontThis is a British brand that has been on the uptick. It’s received high praise in the horological world and has just set up a spanking new facility in the United Kingdom in which it aims to produce 50,000 watches a year. Being a car nut, my favourite watch in its portfolio is the Jaguar chronograph, made to celebrate the legendary E-Type’s 60th birthday. Actually make that three watches—when you buy either one of the chronographs (in grey or green), you also receive an exquisite pair of stopwatches that can be used as desk clocks, or even on the dashboard of your car. A win-win, all around.Atelier JalaperThis Belgium-based brand’s watches have dials that are made from components of well-known cars, and it’s fast developing a following. The initial range has four models and dials made from the bonnet of the legendary Aston Martin DB5; the models are day-date and can be had in plain or black steel. At 6 and 12 o’clock, there are cut-outs with a guilloche finish, lending the effect of the DB5’s grille. The case-back is transparent and displays the self-winding movement from Japan, and the watches don’t cost the earth either.AVI-8As someone who likes pilot watches (but who cannot be persuaded to part with my kidneys to finance something like a Breitling), the AVI-8 is a godsend. Its aviation-inspired models look smashing and are easy on the pocket, and the P-51 Mustang Hitchcock is a particular favourite. It’s named in honour of a superhero of sorts–fighter pilot Tommy Hitchcock Jr. He helped to design the P-51 Mustang fighter, was shot down, escaped his POW camp, went to Harvard and Oxford, and then became a world-class polo player. Quite a lot of history to carry around on your wrist, eh?Bamford Watch DepartmentThis intriguing firm specialises in customising watches made by top echelon brands, just in case their owners believe not enough exclusivity is involved. Bamford is also producing its own timepieces, and a particularly eye-catching one is its B347. It has a 41.5mm carbon case, a monopusher chronograph made in Switzerland, a Sellita movement, and is available in blue-and-black or black-and-white models. However, be prepared to hand over much more than a pretty penny for one of these.CorumThe brand was all but dead when Severin Wunderman bought it 22 years ago and then turned it around. The quirky designer set about creating the ‘bubble’ watches for which Corum became famous–watches with domes that had huge crystals, magnifying the equally quirky images on the dial, such as flying bats and a skull and crossbones. The X-Ray from Corum typifies Wunderman's playful approach (he passed away in 2008); it has a skull on the dial with a green, glow-in-the-dark coating. If you can lay your hands on one of the 88 examples, consider yourself lucky.F.P JourneFP Journe’s motto is invenit et fecit, which in Latin, translates into ‘he invented it and made it’. The ‘he’ in question here is François-Paul Journe, who set up the manufacture d’horlogerie in Geneva in 1999, and the motto emphasises the fact that the firm designs and makes all its movements. F.P Journe specialises in intricate chronometers and production is limited to less than 1000 pieces a year; it also owns its own case and dial-makers. If you can get a new watch at retail, you’re in elite company; a pre-owned one will almost certainly cost you more, as prices for them have skyrocketed. The Chronometre Bleu–a 39mm time-only watch–is a stunning example of the firm’s work.Gerald CharlesGérald Genta is considered among the greatest watch designers of all time, having come up with immortals such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Very few know that he also set up the Gerald Charles brand in 2000 (his full name was Gérald Charles Genta), after having sold the Gérald Genta dial name to Bulgari. He was the brand’s designer until he died in 2011, and among the outstanding collections he designed was the Maestro 3.0, with its standout case shapes.H. Moser & CIEThis is a brand with a rich history, going back to pre-Revolution Russia (Vladimir Lenin owned one of its pocket watches). It was established in 1828 by a watchmaker named Heinrich Moser in St. Petersburg, and over the next 185 years, changed hands several times. In the mid-1950s, it began to make wristwatches rather than the pocket watches it was known for, and these wristwatches are highly prized (have a look at its exquisite Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton). Of late, the brand’s Swiss Alp Watch has been a hit–it looks like a smartwatch but is a mechanical one, with an in-house, hand-wound caliber.Linde WerdelinThis is a Danish brand, but its watches are Swiss-made–and of excellent quality. It has been quietly putting out fine timepieces for 20 years, and is known for its innovative approach to horology. It believes in direct selling, and was the first brand to offer an in-house vintage service. A standout model is its Oktopus Nord, which is a diving watch with a titanium case and a lovely fumé dial, apparently inspired by the waters of the North Sea. It’s a two-layer dial, and has Luminova-filled stainless steel hands for visibility in the dark as well as under water. A great pick if you want a dive watch that isn’t from the ‘usual’ brands.Also Read: 8 stylish watches that won’t break the bankAlso Read: The most iconic watches on every watch lover's listAlso Read: Luxury watch brand Panerai is thinking about sustainabilityRead Next Read the Next Article
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