5 questions to ask before buying a vintage or a pre-loved timepiece

Here’s a quick guide to being wrist-wise when it comes to making that big purchase

Buying a vintage watch is tricky, even for the most discerning. While a vintage watch is undoubtedly prized for its character, history, design and appeal, purchasing one requires a fair amount of education and research, or there’s a strong chance of getting a fake one or being sold a dreaded ‘Frankenwatch’–a timepiece stitched together, like the infamous fictional monster, from disparate parts gutted from other watches.

While internationally there are a host of credible sellers and auction houses to pick up your Cartier and Patek Philippe from, in India, there are very limited options when it comes to sourcing vintage or pre-loved timepieces. “Vintage watches have a distinct historical appeal and are most often handmade,” says Dinesh Vazirani, CEO and co-founder of Saffronart. The auction house is scheduled to host its first online auction of vintage watches and timepieces for two days only, starting today. While their curated list comprises 46 vintage watches, including the gold-plated ‘Must De Cartier’ Vermeil wrist watch and Rolex’s ‘Lady Datejust’ perpetual white gold wrist watch studded with diamonds, we asked Vaizrani to help us understand how to find a vintage watch that is truly worth the big bucks.

In a market where the prices for new luxury watches are skyrocketing, why do you think one should buy a vintage watch?

That’s precisely one of the reasons why one should buy one! If you look carefully, you’re likely to end up with great deals on vintage timepieces. Additionally, vintage watches have a distinct historical appeal and are most often handmade. Some of the newer designs are recreations of older models, which means that when you bid on a watch like that, it’s almost like owning a piece of history.

In your opinion, why should someone opt for a vintage watch as opposed to buying a brand new watch?

The primary reason for owning a vintage watch is history. Another reason is the fact that most vintage watches were handmade. Some of the other aspects that delight collectors are their unique design or function, the patina of old watches and the overall character of the watch that is established by its story. These are small joys for collectors, often difficult to find in new watches.

Is there any value for money in a vintage watch?

Absolutely. These are watches that are hard to find, particularly the ones in great condition, making them highly desirable purchases for collectors. Their value also increases if they belong to one of the top watchmaking houses. A well-maintained vintage watch will always hold value in the market for collectibles, particularly when one takes details like its history, the brand name and the collection it belongs to into account. Although when it comes to their return value, it is difficult to have one rule that fits all here, since this differs from watch to watch.

How does one find out if the parts of a watch are original, making sure that you’re not getting a ‘Frankenwatch’?

The watch will have to be examined by a reputed watch workshop who employ qualified technicians that will help authenticate your pre-loved timepiece.

Is it advisable to customise a pre-loved watch?

It would depend on what the customisation is and whether you can find a dependable watchmaker to get it done. This advice holds true for new watches as well.

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