Should you worry about endocrine disrupting chemicals in beauty products?

Beauty is under the microscope like never before. The world is in its health and wellness era, where every label is under scrutiny. From packaged food to lipsticks, ingredient lists are being dissected more than ever. No wonder, then, brands today loudly advertise ‘free of toxins’, ‘paraben-free’, or ‘organic’, ‘zero phthalates’ on their packaging.  

The latest red flag when it comes to ingredient labels is endocrine disrupting chemicals in beauty products. Frequently found in sunscreen, hair dye, perfumes, deodorant, make-up, and certain skincare products, these hormone disrupting chemicals can mimic or block natural hormones and raise the question: Are they truly harmful or just another case of Internet fearmongering?

According to a 2020 report by Environmental Working Group (EWG), a US-based non-profit organisation, 595 cosmetics manufacturers have reported using 88 different chemicals in more than 73,000 products since 2009. This figure represents only a fraction of the global market, excluding the lakhs of new beauty products launched during the last five years.

While the beauty industry isn’t the only one using toxic endocrine disruptors,  regulations around it in India remain vague. The Drugs and Cosmetics Act of 1940, classifies “products in whole or in part, of any poisonous or deleterious substance which may render the contents injurious to health”. Yet the enforcement is weak. While certain heavy metals like lead and mercury, along with carcinogens and skin-lightening substances like hydroquinone are completely banned, parabens, triclosan, and formaldehyde are still permitted in limited amounts. 

Whether it is microplastics and other endocrine disrupting chemicals in the formula or BPA (Bisphenol A) in the plastic jar itself, beauty products remain a potential source of endocrine system disruptors. 

What are endocrine disruptors?

“The endocrine system functions as a network for transmitting hormonal signals between the organs, and hormones will work as chemical messengers that can help regulate various functions of the body,” explains celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. According to the Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute (MDPI), a Swiss-based scientific journal publisher, “Endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of mimicking the natural hormones of the body and interfering with the endocrine system in humans.” 

To simplify, watchdog organisations like EWG have created a list of endocrine disruptors. Known as ‘Dirty Dozen’, it features BPA, lead, mercury, arsenic, phthalates, dioxin, perfluorinated chemicals, and UV filters such as oxybenzone. 

“THE ENDOCRINE SYSTEM FUNCTIONS AS A NETWORK FOR TRANSMITTING HORMONAL SIGNALS BETWEEN THE ORGANS, AND HORMONES WILL WORK AS CHEMICAL MESSENGERS THAT CAN HELP REGULATE VARIOUS FUNCTIONS OF THE BODY” —Dr Madhuri Agarwal 

In beauty products, the most commonly occurring endocrine system disruptors are parabens (appear as methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben) used as preservatives, phthalates to promote the longevity of fragrances, triclosan in antibacterial soaps, UV filters in sunscreen with endocrine disruptors like oxybenzone/octinoxate, formaldehyde releasers (in hair and nail products), informs celebrity dermatologist Dr Jaishree Sharad. “These chemicals affect estrogen, thyroid, or androgen pathways.” A survey of 238 skin-care and make-up products revealed that 58 per cent contained “chemicals of concern”. Another study found 49 of the most commonly suspected endocrine disruptors in one-third of approximately 1,000 cosmetic products, particularly those in the sun care segment.

Why are endocrine disrupting chemicals in beauty products?

Several beauty brands’ reputation has been punctured by controversies over the inclusion of endocrine disrupting chemicals in their products. Make-up by Claire’s, now discontinued in India, reportedly contained asbestos, a carcinogen. Johnsons & Johnsons faced lawsuits in 2019 over talc and asbestos in its baby powder, forcing a global recall and reformulation. On social media, Bath & Body Works’ candles have been called out for the high levels of endocrine disrupting chemicals such as phthalates and synthetic fragrances.

And yet, beauty products continue to use these endocrine disrupting chemicals.

According to Sarvangi Shah, founder of Noya Beauty Works, an end-to-end beauty product development company, this happens because “endocrine disrupting chemicals are cheap, multifunctional, and have been part of formulation systems for decades.” She adds, “They extend shelf life, make textures feel better, and keep costs low. But what worked in the past doesn’t hold up to today’s consumer awareness.”

Agarwal elaborates, “Beauty and personal care products are regulated by different standards as compared to pharmaceuticals. Newer drugs would require detailed safety testing, whereas beauty and personal care ingredients (such as formaldehyde or phthalates) may often be approved based on preexisting data or industry practices. Any of the common endocrine disrupting chemicals were approved and in use long before the current research on their possible hormonal effects became available.” Sharad adds, “While regulators allow them in small amounts, new evidence shows that daily, repeated exposure may disrupt hormones, which is why the push for ‘clean beauty’ is growing among consumers.”

“ENDOCRINE DISRUPTING CHEMICALS EXTEND SHELF LIFE, MAKE TEXTURES FEEL BETTER, AND KEEP COSTS LOW. BUT WHAT WORKED IN THE PAST DOESN’T HOLD UP TO TODAY’S CONSUMER AWARENESS” — Sarvangi Shah

Fragrances, in particular, have earned a notorious reputation. “Traditional perfumes are often 70 to 80 per cent synthetic in composition. Phthalates, parabens, and synthetic musks are inexpensive, stable, and help a scent project and linger [upon wearing it], which is why the industry has leaned on them for decades. But the trade-off is exposure to ingredients linked to allergies, respiratory irritation, and possible hormonal disruption,” says Ankita Thadani, founder of Secret Alchemist, a homegrown brand focused on clean formulations in fragrance. 

The threats endocrine disruptors in beauty products pose to your health

Endocrine system disruptors enter the body primarily through skin, inhalation, or ingestion, giving beauty and personal care products multiple pathways of access. Constant exposure to such products has been linked to weakened immunity, slower metabolism, Attention deficit/hyperactivity disorder (ADHD), and premature puberty and reproductive disorders.

For women, who already navigate hormonal imbalance and fluctuations and, the risks are often multiplied. “Women are exposed to chemicals through beauty products—about 12 products and approximately 160 chemicals daily—more than men,” begins Agarwal. “Due to the complex hormonal systems and changes like menstruation, pregnancy and menopause, women would face higher risks of health issues such as erratic menstrual cycles, fertility problems, certain cancers, early puberty, pregnancy complications, and weight gain due to the endocrine disruptors. These chemicals can also affect pregnancy by having an impact on the developing baby’s brain and reproductive health.”

The dirty dozen list of endocrine disruptors has its caveats 

Beneath the clutter of fearmongering, however, are some facts. Parabens are preservatives that prevent mould in humid climates. Oxybenzone, present in 70 per cent of sunscreens, makes formulas wearable without the chalky white cast of mineral blocks. 

There is no black or white answer here, cites Agarwal. “Parabens are very effective preservatives, and products without them can grow bacteria or mould, mainly in humid climates. Some alternatives to parabens can even trigger skin sensitivity. Choosing products with shorter paraben names—such as methylparaben and ethylparaben—can lower hormonal risks while keeping products safe. In the case of phthalates, try changing products you use often or those that stay on your skin the longest, such as a daily moisturiser, to products you use occasionally.” 

“DON’T FREAK OUT IF YOU ENJOY A SKINCARE PRODUCT, AND IT HAS A PARABEN IN IT. THESE INGREDIENTS ARE SO UBIQUITOUS IN THE ENVIRONMENT THAT IT’S IMPOSSIBLE TO COMPLETELY AVOID THEM” — Dr Kiran Sethi

Nuance is key for Thadani too. “Not all synthetics are bad, and not all naturals are good.” Along the same lines, Sharad adds, “It’s not that everyone must avoid parabens or phthalates; the risk depends on dose and cumulative use. Small amounts are considered safe, but sensitive groups like pregnant women or children may benefit from limiting them. The key is to make informed choices, not blanket fear.”

What often gets overlooked in the endocrine disruptor debate is that absorption differs across substances and body sites. “Small, oily molecules like parabens or phthalates enter skin more easily, while bigger ones absorb less. Thin, delicate areas like the eyelids, scalp, or underarms take in far more than thicker skin on the palms or soles. If the barrier is damaged or products are used repeatedly, absorption goes up,” explains Agarwal.” 

She adds, “The scalp is also known for its relatively high absorption, so hair care products, including colours and dyes, must be vetted well enough before using. Plus, areas where the skin barrier is compromised, such as eczema-affected areas or open wounds, may absorb chemicals more quickly. Lastly, environmental factors like temperature, humidity, and penetration enhancers included in the product formulations can, at times, affect the absorption rates, especially in climates that are warm and humid, such as India.”

Celebrity dermatologist Dr Kiran Sethi notes that the absorption also depends on chemical properties. “BPA and certain alkylphenols are more readily absorbed than phthalates, and permeability can vary between skin, gastrointestinal, and other epithelial barriers.”

Importantly, beauty products are only one source of endocrine system disruptors. From the packaged food and water to polluted air, exposure is constant. “Many cosmetic products have parabens, but in infinitesimal doses. And frankly, all of it is probably in the water we drink anyway,” says Sethi. “So don’t freak out if you enjoy a skincare product, and it has a paraben in it. These ingredients are so ubiquitous in the environment that it’s impossible to completely avoid them.” 

“WHILE REGULATORS ALLOW THEM IN SMALL AMOUNTS, NEW EVIDENCE SHOWS THAT DAILY, REPEATED EXPOSURE MAY DISRUPT HORMONES, WHICH IS WHY THE PUSH FOR ‘CLEAN BEAUTY’ IS GROWING AMONG CONSUMERS” imabalnce Dr Jaishree Sharad

Ultimately, no single endocrine disrupting chemical should be seen as the red flag. What matters is cutting down cumulative exposure over time. 

Expert-approved tips to shop smarter, and dodge endocrine system disruptors

Reports suggest that 65 per cent of companies focus on profit, while testing for safety remains secondary; only 15 per cent of products undergo rigorous pre-market carcinogenicity testing. The responsibility to avoid endocrine disrupting chemicals in beauty products often ends up falling on consumers rather than brands. 

Shah points out that newer beauty labels are responding to this shift. “Consumers are asking tougher questions, and brands are obliging. Yes, it costs more and is time-consuming, but in the long run, clean and mindful beauty builds far deeper trust.” Calling out brands that use high doses of endocrine disrupting chemicals and demanding cleaner, toxin-free products can only push the industry forward.

In the meantime, Sharad recommends checking labels by “looking for parabens, triclosan, oxybenzone/octinoxate, homosalate, formaldehyde releasers (like DMDM hydantoin), and synthetic musks. Phthalates are often hidden under fragrance/parfum,” for safer beauty and personal care products. Additionally, choose paraben-free skincare and swap frequent-use products (like daily moisturiser) for safer alternatives. Thadani recommends looking for IFRA-certified or FDA-approved perfumes that disclose and use grain-derived alcohol instead of denatured synthetics.

Don’t get carried away by labels like “natural” or “organic.” As a rule, stick to the “less is more” adage when it comes to beauty—the lesser the usage, the lower the vulnerability to endocrine disrupting chemicals. Phasing out endocrine disrupting chemicals in beauty products is not instant. It takes patience, self-education, and  a willingness to move away from what’s trending or going viral. The shift towards cleaner formulations has begun, but a full industry reset will take time.