Is semi-permanent hair colour the answer to reservations about experimentation?

You might want to colour your hair a flaming red or opt for blonde but if you’re unsure of committing to a look, semi-permanent hair dyes are your best bet 

Do you ever look at Nicki Minaj or Katy Perry’s Instagram feeds and feel intrigued about  eccentric, off-beat hair colours? A sizeable chunk of Indians relishes  hair colour today—91 per cent, according to a survey. And if you think hair colour is a hit only with women, it’s picking up pace amongst men too. If we go by a Mintel report, 46 per cent of British men aged between 16 and 24 get their hair coloured; what transpires in India in the segment is yet to unfold in totality. The market for hair colour, then, is having a moment and is only poised to boom further.

More and more people are now willing to experiment with colours like neon green, neon pink and fiery red. Moreover, pop culture (the looks in the Netflix show Euphoria or the ever-changing hairstyles of stars like Billie Eilish) majorly influences Gen-Z to have fun with their manes. Thus, semi-permanent hair colour has emerged as one of the most attention-grabbing segments, making room for trial and error without leaving a lasting impression on your tresses. 

Understanding the basics 

“As the name suggests, a semi-permanent colour simply coats the outer layer of the hair shaft to refresh existing colour or to tone your dull and faded hair colour’s gloss and shine. It can also cover grey hair to a certain extent, but may fade after a few washes,” says Kanta Motwani, celebrity hair expert and founder, Kromakay Salon. “In contrast, permanent hair colour penetrates the hair shaft and changes the colour permanently, allowing for a more dramatic transformation,” she adds. 

Celebrity hairstylist Priyanka Borkar says that there are three types of hair colours—temporary, semi-permanent and permanent, with the difference between the first two categories being very diminutive. “Temporary hair colour comes in formats like coloured gels, conditioning masks, colour sprays and coloured mascaras, that last for a wash or two, making them suitable for a quick change. Semi-permanent hair colour, on the other hand, comes in liquid and paste formats and lasts more than a couple of washes, sometimes weeks and months, depending on the colour you have chosen, the porosity (ability to absorb and retain moisture) of your hair and the frequency of hair wash; they can be used on pre-lightened or bleached hair,” she says.  

Lending a deeper insight into how semi-permanent and permanent hair colours wear on the hair, Yushika Jolly, founder and CEO, Paradyes, says, “A key distinguishing factor is the cuticle opening and closing process, also known as ‘sealing’, which is bare minimum in the case of semi-permanent hair colour. The fewer cuticle opening and closings you do, the less damaging the dyeing process becomes. In comparison, permanent dyes open up cuticles to deposit the colour into the hair. Once the cuticle opens up, the dye reacts with the hair’s inner portion (the cortex) to deposit the colour.” She also highlights the good-for-your-hair formulations of semi-permanent dyes that steer clear of chemicals like ammonia and peroxide as well as PPD (para-phenylenediamine), parabens and sulphates, thereby resulting in reduced hair damage in the long run. 

The pandemic propulsion

Numerous market reports promulgate that the COVID-19 pandemic played a role in the proliferation of semi-permanent hair dyes. A Mintel report reveals that the hair colour market had transcended sales of $2.4 billion in 2020. Andrea Blieden, CEO of American colour cosmetic brand Lime Crime, informed Glossy that the Unicorn Hair Dye range (the brand’s semi-permanent dye range) enjoyed a double-digit growth since the pandemic started, experiencing a 218 per cent month-on-month growth in sales for April 2020, soaring as high as 60 per cent year-over-year in 2021.

Why the pandemic period caused a spurt in at-home hair dye and colour is rather decipherable. Little to no access to salon professionals compelled several people to get grooming (read: colouring) at home through various DIY means. The pandemic also surfaced as a great opportunity to go whimsical with your hair colour choices as there was nowhere to go, even if the final look wouldn’t materialise as expected. However, owing to the lack of expertise, it only made sense for individuals to get started with semi-permanent hair dyes that provide a scope for experimentation minus the parlour-hair damage.

“For someone who is scared of colouring their hair, these colours are the perfect option. You can pre-lighten your hair once and keep layering different semi-permanent hair dyes one after the other, depending on how fast your hair colour fades. It is also possible to use permanent dyes over semi-permanent hair colours in situations where the customer might want to discontinue exploring or trying new semi-permanent dyes,” says Jolly. 

The caveats involved

While most semi-permanent hair dyes don’t contain the aforementioned hair-devastating nasties, for any offbeat hair colour to manifest on Indian hair, which is usually dark brown or black, you will have to go in with bleaching as the first step. “Bleach reacts with the melanin in the hair, oxidising the melanin molecule, therefore, lightening the hair,” explains Jolly. “I am not sure if I should detail out the bleaching process for at-home purposes since it can come with potential risks,” mentions Motwani, who is of the opinion that scheduling an appointment with a hairstylist and canvassing your hair goals is the best and fail-proof way of approaching any hair treatment. 

“Semi-permanent hair colours work well if you want to cover greys or even out disrupted hair tones due to the sun’s bleaching effect, excessive use of styling tools or other causes,” believes the hair expert. “If you think you can achieve the exact look displayed on the packaging of a hair colour tube or box without any damage, that’s not going to happen, at least not with most Indian hair tones (it may show up almost identically on lighter brown or golden hair). On the contrary, it could turn out to be disastrous, and can be confusing and overwhelming for an end-consumer.” 

If you still wish to play hair artist at home, it’s paramount that you look for hair colours that feature hair-conditioning ingredients. For instance, the Paradyes hair colours are enriched with herbal ingredients such as amla, brahmi and bhringaraj and feature a conditioner-based formula to keep post-colour damage at bay. “Our Lighten Up! Bleach is formulated with almond, flax, and olive oil, giving your hair extra hydration as compared to conventional bleaches,” says Jolly. Meanwhile, Motwani recommends maintaining a good hair care regime at home following any colour service. “Always patch test on one area of your hair before using it all over. Avoid washing hair too frequently and don’t give a heat-protectant a miss,” she concludes.

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