What’s different about products for curly hair?

We attempt to understand the science behind why hair curls to the ingredients that go into making products specific to this hair type

About 20 years ago, a childhood friend who had big voluminous curls showed up with hair that was silky, shiny and extremely straight, akin to the representation of every shampoo commercial we were privy to in the 1990s. It remained so for years to come—she loved it, only reminiscing about her original curly mane on rare occasions she spotted curls on another girl. Why couldn’t she keep her cool curls? Why did she prefer having a lifelong commitment to chemical treatments and heated tools to enslave her wild wild curls?

However, back then, straight hair was the prototype for beautiful hair; you stood out if you didn’t fall into that category. No ad film or movie promoted curls, every Barbie doll came in perfectly blow-dried blonde hair, and products to care for curls didn’t exist. What flourished instead were the many options (treatments, tools and products) to flatten the wave, making curly-haired humans more resilient in their efforts to brush their curls out or ‘treat’ their messy, dry, frizzy strands. The narrative is a tad different today. Brands–both homegrown and across the globe–are creating formulations specific to the once-ignored hair type, women are beaming behind a curtain of curls in ad campaigns, and a new hope has risen for those who thought the only way to maintain their curls was to not have them. Do curl-care products have what it takes to convince us to retain our natural texture? What’s different about them anyway?

WHY DO THEY CURL?

“The major difference between straight, wavy and curly hair is the hair follicles,” says Dr Jaishree Sharad, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Skinfinitii Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic, Mumbai. In straight hair, the follicle is straight, in wavy it’s slightly disc-shaped, and in curly, it’s oval. “Coordinated division of keratin in a straight follicle leads to even and straight hair growth. But there is an asymmetrical and random distribution of keratin in the hair correlating with the bends of the curved follicle, resulting in the formation of an elliptical shape of the hair fibre, allowing it to curl,” she explains. 

Curly hair is also more porous. “The porosity of hair is its ability to absorb and retain moisture, including that from products,” says Sharad, adding, “this leads to the cuticles or the outer covering of the hair shaft being loose, with rapid absorption and loss of moisture.” Nidhi Aggarwal, senior educator at made-in-Italy haircare brand milkshake, shares, “Coiled curls and wavy hair grow from the shaft in a slanted direction whereas straight hair grows in a vertically upright direction. Since the follicles in curly hair are slanted, the natural oils secreted by the scalp cannot reach the full length, making them dry to extremely dry and frizzy.” Curly hair differs not only in shape but also texture and needs. The brand’s Curl Perfectionist defining cream is formulated with key active ingredients like quinoa proteins and a patented ingredient with antioxidant-rich hydro glycolic sunflower seed extract to provide hydration, heat protection, shine and manageability. Curls need care; it’s just a matter of doing it right.

WHAT A CURL WANTS

Curly hair needs products with deep and long-lasting conditioning effects—a deep conditioner, masking, oiling and serums for longer periods, according to Sharad. “Applying the same products on straight hair will weigh it down and go flat,” she says. Curls can also become fragile when undernourished, resulting in breakage, split ends and frizz. This can, in turn, make hair prone to damage via sun exposure, styling and improper care. Sharad reminds us that in order to attain bouncy, shiny curls and elasticity, hydration is key.

Pooja Singh, national creative director, hair, at Lakmé Salon, believes that curly hair needs a good scalp and hair cleanser followed by nourishment, leave-in conditioner and finally gel. “This is necessary to maintain curls, avoid frizz and retain curl pattern till the next wash.” She advises picking a mild cleanser that cleans the scalp and hair without ripping off natural moisture.

DECODING CURL CARE

When Arata, a homegrown haircare brand that entered the market in 2018 launched their 8-product Advanced Curl Care in 2022, their mission was to empower the curly-haired community. “Straight and sleek hair has been the beauty standard for decades, and we wanted to change that. A large population of our country has curly hair, but there is a lack of products in the market that cater to this set,” says co-founder Dhruv Madhok. All products in this range are intensely hydrating and nourishing at the core, with ingredients like shea butter, murumuru butter, hydrolysed proteins, abyssinian seed oil and seaweed oil that penetrate the curls with moisture. 

“A curly hair-specific shampoo is very moisturising and contains compounds that minimise frizz without weighing down the curls,” says Yuba Khan Aga, a hairstylist and Mumbai’s first certified curly hairstylist. She launched her brand Manetain in 2018 with co-founder Hinshara Habeeb. The paraben-free range includes a cowash, conditioner, moisturising shampoo, clarifying shampoo and hair accessories.

However, its the verticals that go beyond shampooing and conditioning that make curl-care brands unique. Arata also offers a gel, cream, oil, leave-in conditioner and detangling spray, while Manetain has a cowash (an ultra-moisturising formula to nourish while it cleanses), a clarifying monthly-use shampoo for deep cleanse, and a multipurpose conditioner with the option to rinse-off, leave-in or deep-condition. “We have introduced ingredients such as phyto keratin in our products,” adds Aga.

INGREDIENT CHECKLIST

Getting the right ingredient mix is crucial, with a key focus on what to look for and avoid. “One such is shea butter, a rich natural emollient that locks in moisture and has a high level of vitamin E, making it an anti-inflammatory as well, and helping with dryness and itchy scalps,” says Aga, adding argan and jojoba oils to her list.The progressive elimination of chemicals from products that care for curly hair to make them more effective and appealing have led to cleaner formulations, “like moisturising and styling products without paraffinum liquidum, sulphate- and paraben-free shampoo, water-insoluble silicone-free conditioner, and shampoo that is sulphate- and paraben-free,” adds Aga.

But to understand what it really means to not have certain ingredients in haircare, we need to know how they found their way into these products in the first place. Sulphates, like ALS (Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate) and SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), are the surfactants that produce foam and work on hard water that leave the hair dry. Silicones, that are high molecular weight oils, can cause build up if used excessively and suffocate hair fibres—using them in moderation is key to reap their benefits of providing shine, conditioning and protection from heat, says Sharad. Drying alcohol, like propanol, can make curly hair more brittle and susceptible to damage, and have the potential to irritate the scalp.

Avoiding products with parabens (preservatives to prevent microbial contamination), mineral oils, waxes and artificial fragrances can help reduce skin irritation and damage to fragile hair. 

How we treat our curls is essential too. “Curly hair must only be combed when wet, followed by applying leave-in MJ conditioner and gel,” says Singh, who recommends the plopping method (drying wet curls in a mound on top of your head with a cotton T-shirt or microfibre towel) and sleeping on satin pillows to avoid frizz.

Then there’s the infamous formaldehyde, commonly used in most chemical straighteners like smoothening, keratin, cysteine treatments. “It damages the di-sulphide bonds in the hair shaft and makes the hair straight, while also damaging the hair cuticle making the curl shaft fragile and prone to damage by minor traumas like combing, hair clips and ties,” explains Sharad.

The list of dos and don’ts is endless, and while no head of hair could possibly look like what is shown in commercials, understanding how ingredients work, finding the right products, sticking with them and creating a consistent routine that is unique to you is how your curls will thrive. 

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