The rare Swiss Glacier extract could be an antidote to fatigued skin a decade from now

If stress is making your skin look weary, this glacier-derived extract might do the job

Did you go overboard with sugary desserts? It might show up in the form of acne. Did you skimp on moisturiser or sunscreen? Expect some extra sebum on your T-zone, or pigmentation around the apples of your cheeks. Did you get lazy about taking your make-up off? Clogged pores are a definite denouement. All of your day-to-day practices are apparent on your skin, and in a similar way, stress manifests on your skin in  many ways—fine lines, wrinkles, dullness and lacklusterness. As of 2022, 88 per cent of Indians are stressed, reportedBusiness Today. Thus, people are not only having to deal with early signs of ageing at a younger age but also observing compromised overall skin health more often than not.

At such times, any and every practical skincare solution becomes cop-worthy, swiftly making its way to your shopping cart. While you’re cognisant of the usual peptides, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid, another naturally-derived ingredient that deserves your attention, especially if you’re fanatical about fancy skincare regimens, is Swiss Glacier extract. We chalk out a guide on everything you need to know about the ingredient.   

What is Swiss Glacier Extract?

“Swiss Glacier extract includes microorganisms excavated from the Swiss glaciers,” says Mumbai-based dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal. “In recent years, the Swiss Glacier has diminished, exposing the contents underlying it, such as frozen microbes. These microorganisms have been harvested for various medicinal purposes. One of the organisms is a rod-shaped bacterium called lodobacterspp, which has been used in skincare for its unique properties,” she adds.

According to Dr Kiran Sethi, celebrity dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, the combination of salicylic acid (a peeling and resurfacing beta hydroxy acid) and maltodextrin (a type of sugar that binds water and hydrate the skin) is what makes Swiss Glacier extract a mentionable ingredient. “Salicylic acid is globally accessible today; however, introducing a product with an ingredient called ‘Swiss Glacier extract’ does make it more exciting for the consumer,” expresses the dermatologist.

What are the benefits?

“Stress causes the cell structure in the body to change. Additionally, sleep deprivation, caused majorly due to stress, impairs the unfolded protein response (a cellular stress response associated with the endoplasmicreticulum, a cell component). This causes cell damage, leading to poor skin quality,” explains Agarwal. “Stress triggers the hypothalamus-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis, a trio of glands that play key roles in the body’s response to stress. This can cause the production of local proinflammatory factors such as cortisol and key hormones in the fight-or-flight stress response called catecholamines, which can direct immune cells from the bloodstream into the skin or stimulate pro-inflammatory skin cells,” mentions a Harvard University study, which explains a lot about how the brain and skin are interconnected; no wonder every ounce of stress triggers pimples, hives and similar reactions. 

Agarwal reveals that topical application of Swiss Glacier extract maintains a healthy unfolded protein response, which ensures improved cellular health of the skin. Sethi attributes the ingredient’s efficacy to its ability to boost hydration in your skin. “Besides soothing fatigued skin through hydration, the resurfacing action of the ingredient works similarly to ingredients like lactic acid and retinol, to render softer and brighter skin,” says Sethi. Agarwal believes it helps with achieving energised and rejuvenated skin that looks well-rested. 

As Swiss Glacier extract has a BHA, it wouldn’t be ideal to combine it with other potent ingredients or acids. “The lack of research on the ingredient isn’t suggestive of combining it with other actives either,” mentions Agarwal. However, if you make use of Swiss Glacier water, “it can be combined with multiple ingredients like vitamins and antioxidants,” she believes. 

Ideal alternatives 

The presence of Swiss Glacier extract is still very rare in beauty products today. Barring a few niche Swiss luxury brands like La Prairie and Niance, not a lot of brands have tapped the ingredient, perhaps due to scarcity and difficulty in procuring it or the paucity of substantial research to solidify its claims. The more accessible alternatives to the ingredient include, “tried and tested ingredients like peptides, retinol and antioxidants like polyphenols that can be used to repair and rejuvenate skin,” says Agarwal. Sethi recommends using AHAs and BHAs or hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acids in cohesion to enjoy the same results. 

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