How can you tell if a skincare product is working for you?

Here’s a primer on how you can actually figure out if a skincare product you invested in has done you any good

The K-beauty-inspired 10-step skincare routine can come across as exciting, game-changing and overwhelming. With the beauty industry—skincare, in particular—playing an enticing space for consumers, most new products seem to pique their interest, resulting in a legion of products from the same category on the shelves of beauty fanatics. Despite being spoiled for choices, there is always that one product from a certain category that you set your heart on, owing to its efficacy, or simply because of how it made you feel. However, to be spot on with your analysis of a skincare product, it is important to be cognisant of the right parameters that help you do so accurately. We speak to two expert dermatologists who tell us about the right way to judge your skincare products’ performance and whether or not they are working for your skin type.

How do you pick the right product 

To increase the probability of the success rate of your beauty product investments is to pick those that are specifically made for your skin type, containing ingredients that address your needs and concerns. For instance, a potent salicylic acid treatment may not be the best choice for dry and sensitive skin just like a thick cream with heavy emollients may not work for oily skin. Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Madhuri Agarwal says, “Before starting to use skincare products, understand your skin type and skin condition(s). To begin with, adopt a routine that includes the basics—cleanse, moisturise and protect (in other words, use sunscreen) before venturing into actives.” 

New Delhi-based dermatologist and author of Skin Sense, Dr Kiran Sethi, urges you to follow one mantra, and that is “listen to your skin”. “Everyone’s needs are different, and everyone’s skin reacts differently to different stimuli,” says the dermatologist, who believes in “intuitive skincare”. According to Sethi, intuitive skincare entails understanding your skin and choosing products according to what your skin wants, in different seasons or even at different times during the day. “It is not about following a multi-step regime or a multi-product regime. In fact, it is about ‘skinimalism’ (or skin minimalism).”

Is clear skin the only sign of the products’ efficacy?

More often than not, when sticking to a product renders clearer-looking skin, you might feel like you’ve finally found the product for your skin, though that might not always be the case. “Clear skin is definitely one sign of effectiveness, but just because a product feels good or makes your skin feel smoother does not mean that it is always effective,” states Sethi. “To know if your skincare product is working, you should follow the approach of purpose-led beauty, which means understanding your skincare goal. For instance, if your goal is to get glowing skin, then wait for a month and see if that product helped you achieve it or not. In the case of acne, wait for at least a month or two before you check if the number and size of bumps have reduced; with anti-ageing products, you would need to wait for about 3-6 months to see visible results,” adds the skin expert.

In Agarwal’s opinion, a skincare product is working if your skin feels hydrated, healthy and supple upon consistent use. “The skin is more even, less patchy and not overtly oily when you’re using a product that suits your skin type. A glowing, clear skin definitely passes as an indicator the products are working.” So while clear skin could mean healthy skin (which, again, isn’t always the case), factors like hydration and regulation of extreme dryness or oiliness also have a key role to play.

What if your skin starts breaking out?

Think about this: you purchased retinol or salicylic acid with an aim to smoothen and even out the texture (bumps, acne or early signs of ageing) on your skin but experience something seemingly worse upon using any of them—purging. In case you happen to give your homework about such ingredients a miss, purging can be quite the shocker. But does that always mean that your skin has signed up for further deterioration?

“Purging is actually healthy because it cleans out any acne that is beneath the skin's surface,” says Sethi, indicating that the occurrence of acne is actually a part of the process if it’s purging. Agarwal adds, “When you are using an ingredient like retinol, expected signs of purging occur in the initial stages in the form of redness, flaky skin and breakout. However, if the occurrence of purging persists beyond two weeks, take that as a sign of a serious problem. Perhaps, the product is damaging your skin. Also, when the product is creating unbearable irritation or discomfort, consult the dermatologist.”

What are the red flags?

While you must focus on closely observing the effects that a product has on your skin, it is also critical to be aware of the red flags to avoid serious damage. For instance, Sethi believes that a skincare product is not suitable for you if there is a sudden occurrence and multiplication of little bumps on your face or if your skin gets dry, itchy or super irritated right after applying a product. As far as mild tingling and stinging are concerned (which may come as a given with certain AHAs and BHAs), you should examine your skin’s reaction, and whether or not it changes with time.

“In case irritation, redness, breakouts and rashes persist beyond 2-3 weeks, then the product is not working.” Sethi’s simple advice is to tactfully navigate through the heavily marketed information that is usually thrust upon us. Agarwal’s no-no list includes overlooking FDA approvals on the label, falling for claims pertaining to overnight results, lack of evidence substantiating the claims made by the product, excessive use of terms like ‘clean’ or ‘green’ on the labels  and the inclusion of hazardous ingredients like bad alcohols or formalin. Lastly, Sethi encourages you to turn to a dermatologist before anything else.

Also Read: Have active-based skincare routines spelt the end for facials?

Also Read: Industry experts share skincare tips they wish they knew in their 20s

Also Read: No, you shouldn’t be following your favourite celebrity’s skincare routine—here’s why