Does clear skin always mean healthy skin?

More often than not, we confuse one for the other. But what’s the truth anyway?

Before we get into the debate of clear skin versus healthy skin, we ought to give a shout out to the ‘skin positivity’ movement that has kicked off very recently. After all, if not for it, we wouldn’t even care to indulge in this debate today. Not many years ago, advertisements and television commercials would massively influence not just our purchases but also our thoughts and perceptions. The messaging in every single advertisement featuring face washes, moisturisers and scrubs (no, active-first serums and tonic solutions weren’t a thing for the masses back then) made us believe that skin with pimples, pigmentation or dark circles is problematic and that these imperfections need to be “corrected” or “reversed”.

“Dark circles could be related to friction (rubbing of the eyes), anaemia (lack of haemoglobin), genetics, hyperpigmentation or an old filler that sat there, casting a shadow and making the eyes look dark. But, the usual question is, “Oh doc, I have dark circles–can you get rid of them?” without understanding the cause. My treatment approach is very tailor-made, based on the cause of why that particular concern is there,” shares Dr Harshna Bijlani, celebrity dermatologist and founder, Ageless Clinic. While wanting to get rid of raccoon eyes isn’t a crime, the fact that the causes, and, more importantly, the normalcy attached to it, were never given any importance is something to think about.

Cut to almost 2023, when progressive concepts like skin positivity and self-embracement have been talked about at the loudest volume ever, the quest for “glass skin” becomes an extremely regressive pull-back of sorts. When you see Korean influencers, or, perhaps, your favourite K-pop idols flaunting as-perfect-as-photoshopped skin, it becomes a trend first, and an idealistic standard then, leaving everybody yearning for it in no time. But is not-so-glass skin really that bad? Does just one zit make your skin unhealthy or in need of correction? We ask the experts to weigh in their opinions on what healthy skin really is all about.

The scientifically perceived definition of healthy skin

With more and more attention being paid to the skin barrier (and the layers beneath), the surface-level appearance of your skin isn’t the dealbreaker anymore. “There’s no medical definition of ‘healthy skin’ but skin that is not irritated is what I call healthy skin,” says celebrity dermatologist Dr Jushya Sarin.“The skin is the largest organ of our body and it is very difficult to define what healthy skin is,” admits Bijlani. “But for me, healthy skin would be one that is fresh, dewy, hydrated and free of blemishes and acne scars. It’s more or less even skin tone, too but in India, it is very difficult to maintain that. It’s normal to have pores on our skin as long as they’re not very large.” Highlighting the inside-out factor here, she emphasises, “Essentially healthy skin is also a reflection of what is going on within the body. It’s like a mirror of the inner body’s health.”

So is clear skin incessantly healthy?

Not always, believe both dermatologists. While Bijlani credits effortlessly clear and superficially good-looking skin to genetics, she also warns about potential concerns that aren’t generally visible to the naked eye. Sarin is in absolute agreement. “Dehydration and skin sensitivity are common issues among people with visibly clear skin,” she shares. “What people with visibly clear skin could also be facing are broken capillaries or enlarged pores around the nose, rough patches on the skin where oil production is less or certain areas where oil production is more. There could also be visible fine lines and wrinkles, especially in people above the age of 30-35,” explains Bijlani. Leading a sedentary lifestyle could also have an influential role to play. “Some days when we wake up, our skin is fantastic and visibly clearer than it is on other days. A lot of that depends on our sleep cycle, stress levels, sun exposure and overall lifestyle,” she adds.

The pathway to healthy skin

In order to identify the current state of your skin, Bijlani shares: “When you look at yourself in the mirror and you study your skin, there should be a uniform distribution of pores and nothing should be significantly bigger or enlarged. Whiteheads and blackheads are bound to occur in a largely humid country like ours. There should not be any significant broken veins and capillaries. When you touch the skin, it should be soft and smooth and when you pinch the skin between two fingers, there should be a certain amount of elasticity where it goes back to its normal state,” she confirmed. 

Talking about how healthy skin can be maintained, she threw light on some basic tips that can easily be incorporated into our daily skincare routine. “Always use sunscreen whenever going out in the sun and use it correctly, every 2-3 hours; apply a generous amount. The second tip would be to cleanse your face at the end of the day and apply moisturiser, depending on your skin type. Lastly, understand that everything is connected within the body so the way to ensure good skin is by following ideal lifestyle habits.”

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