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From retinol to salicylic acid, our daily skincare routine is full of actives. We talk to experts on what they think the future holds for outdoor facials.

Have active-based skincare routines spelt the end for facials?

From retinol to salicylic acid, our daily skincare routine is chock-a-block with actives that target every concern under the roof. Dermatologists and skincare experts tell us what the future holds for outdoor facials

About a decade ago, for most of us, our skincare routines featured a face wash, a moisturiser and a gritty face scrub. If you were a forward-looking skincare enthusiast, you might have indulged in monthly facials at your local parlour. Multi-active serums, in-office skin treatments and facial tools were indulgences that were unheard of then. Cut to 2023, and everyone plays skincare champion, owing to the digital-first attitude of beauty brands and consumers alike. Our vanity plays host to a slew of active-based serums, barrier-repairing moisturisers, sunscreens of various formulations, traditional as well as modern face masks and so much more. In the midst of these myriad offerings, are facials relevant anymore? The Established speaks with dermatologists and salons to find out more.

The evolution of the perception towards facials

There’s no dearth of facials today, ranging from as reasonable as ₹ 300 to as exorbitant as ₹ 30,000. However, most millennials steer clear from committing to regular facials, largely due to the skincare-first approach that has ensued comprehensive at-home routines. Having said that, we cannot neglect the increase in the value of the term ‘self-care’, with skincare being a huge part of it.

While salons employ therapists to execute the facials, clinics secures the services of certified dermatologists to perform treatments. Image: Pexels

While salons employ therapists to execute the facials, clinics secures the services of certified dermatologists to perform treatments. Image: Pexels

Scientifically-proven actives in skincare products work only on a certain layer of the skin believes Dr Harshna Bijlani. Image: Unsplash

Scientifically-proven actives in skincare products work only on a certain layer of the skin believes Dr Harshna Bijlani. Image: Unsplash

Mumbai-based celebrity dermatologist Dr Harshna Bijlani believes that initially, facials were treated as an occasional method of skin rejuvenation. Today, however, they are a part of the skin’s maintenance regime. “Facials these days have gone above and beyond the conventional method and have embraced advanced technologies, tools and topical products for better and long-lasting results. Hi-tech versions of facials like lasers, PRF (platelet-rich fibrin) treatments and HIFU (high-intensity focused ultrasound), have shown some amazing results,” she says.

“SCIENTIFICALLY-PROVEN ACTIVES IN SKINCARE PRODUCTS WORK ONLY ON A CERTAIN LAYER OF THE SKIN. HENCE, SERIOUS SKIN CONCERNS LIKE ACNE SCARS, ACTIVE ACNE AND HYPERPIGMENTATION AND MORE REMAIN UNAFFECTED EVEN AFTER A REGULAR SKINCARE ROUTINE”

Dr Harshna Bijlani

According to Sana Dhanani, founder of luxury salon chain The White Door,  in recent years, there has been a greater emphasis on self-care and self-love, which has led to individuals, particularly women, indulging in facials as a form of maintenance. “The kind of facial offerings has also evolved, from a basic cleanse-tone-extract-hydrate regime, they have become multi-faceted. From boosters to massaging techniques to toning and sculpting the facial muscles, they target a wide array of skin concerns including dryness, anti-ageing and anti-pollution,” she adds, echoing what Bijlani shared. In concurrence, New Delhi-based dermatologist Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta says, “In the early 20th century, beauty parlours began booming and many ambiguous treatments were introduced by them. The main problem with those was that they were not very scientific, often gimmicky and sometimes would harm the skin more than help it. Today, facials have become more scientific and result-oriented, and are performed by dermatologists.”

While salons employ therapists to execute the facials, clinics secure the services of certified dermatologists to perform treatments. Image: Unsplash

While salons employ therapists to execute the facials, clinics secure the services of certified dermatologists to perform treatments. Image: Unsplash

Salon v/s in-office facials

The difference between the facials that salons and clinics offer is obvious. While the former employ therapists to execute the facials, the latter secures the services of certified dermatologists to perform treatments that demand expert supervision. “In-clinic facials are tailored to your concerns, whether it’s acne or pigmentation, and the products used are targeted to the cause of your concern. As opposed to salons, clinics have skin experts and hence, can cater to your skin woes at a deeper level rather than just the superficial layer of the skin. In clinics, we use certified technologies and products that provide advanced results, whereas salons, in most cases, use substandard products. One of the added benefits of an in-clinic facial is that you will be guided with a proper home care regime to extend the results achieved,” suggests Bijlani.

However, Dhanani, who offers a slew of potent facial treatments from globally-acclaimed brands iS Clinical and Biologique Recherche in her salons believes the difference is gradually diminishing as salons replace conventional facials with target-based treatments. “Owing to the increased emphasis on beauty education and technology, the gap is shrinking. Beauty establishments collaborate with dermatologists and trichologists to provide customers with the complete package,” she explains. According to her, customers are extremely well-informed and are willing to pay for the most cutting-edge treatments. 

Actives-enriched routines as a substitute for facials?

While your beauty shelf might comprise endless actives-infused serums, toners, creams and lotions, experts are of the opinion that monthly facials could be a valuable add-on. Talking about facials, Kanchan Punjani, beauty and make-up education manager, Jean Claude Biguine India, says, “The therapist or the facial expert uses various methods, products and technologies which includes deep cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and, most importantly, massages, that is not achievable at home by yourself.” On the same lines, Dhanani furthers, “It all boils down to technique, knowledge and expertise; self-taught individuals who attempt to perform facials at home frequently fail to use the correct techniques or products, resulting in serious skin issues. Furthermore, product formulations used in spas and beauty establishments are more potent, allowing for far superior results than at-home use.”

According to Dhanani, product formulations used in beauty establishments are more potent, allowing for far superior results. Image: Pexels

According to Dhanani, product formulations used in beauty establishments are more potent, allowing for far superior results. Image: Pexels

“The therapist uses various methods which includes deep cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and, most importantly, massages, that is not achievable at home by yourself” says Kanchan. Punjani Image: Pexels

“The therapist uses various methods which includes deep cleansing, exfoliation, extraction and, most importantly, massages, that is not achievable at home by yourself” says Kanchan. Punjani Image: Pexels

Throwing light on the surface-level efficacy of active-based serums, Bijlani says, “Scientifically-proven actives in skincare products work only on a certain layer of the skin. Hence, serious skin concerns like acne scars, active acne and hyperpigmentation remain untreated even after a regular skincare routine.” She reveals that in-clinic facials help treat the deepest layers of the skin and catch the root cause of the problem, giving a long-lasting result. “For example, if someone has dark circles or pigmentation around the mouth that usually is on the dermal or deeper layer of the skin, then any active skincare would not address or target that area. Using a Q-switch laser in such a case would help reduce pigmentation. Another important thing is actives in skincare are unable to proffer the clean-up functions of a facial—think whiteheads, blackheads and pustule acne- removal—as they require manual extraction with sterile tools which is done in a clinic,” she explains.

According to Bijlani,  the understanding of skincare, complemented by a higher disposable income makes it  natural that the demand for facials is going to go up. Image: Pexels

According to Bijlani, the understanding of skincare, complemented by a higher disposable income makes it natural that the demand for facials is going to go up. Image: Pexels

The future of facials

Both, the increased interest in self-care as well as the hike in the quantum of well-informed users, manifest the augmented inclination towards facials as a monthly maintenance ritual, whether at a salon or at the dermatologist’s office. “I have observed that people are more aware of the impact of personal care on their self-esteem and have consciously started taking care of their skin by using skincare products from a young age to delay signs of ageing,” mentions Punjani.

“Customers expect Indian establishments to be at par with global brands in terms of technology and premium product offerings as a result of social media and their exposure to global trends. This has created a niche in the personal care market, with Indian establishments going above and beyond to keep up with the latest innovations in the beauty industry,” observes Dhanani. According to Bijlani, with the understanding of skincare and the desire to achieve great skin, complemented by a higher disposable income, it is natural that the demand for facials is going to go up. “Statistically, the increase in skincare, as well as facial aesthetic treatments is meant to increase with each passing year. More and more people want to go filter-free and make-up-free, which is easily achievable with facial treatments,” concludes the dermatologist.

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